Old versus new

How does the quality of newer revolvers compare with older guns as for as out-of-the-box accuracy? Do today's new guns require more work to make them competitive for DR? If not, then what is the best to start with?

I've used only 'old' guns for DR - my first DR gun, a Model 19-3, was made in 1976. The last gun I used to get DR points was a Model 14-5 and was made in 1993. The newest gun I've used in DR to get points was a Model 14-6, made in 1997. More recently (2011), I used a Model 14-4 (1980) and a Model 68-2 (1985) in DR matches, shooting as a Distinguished shooter.

My Bullseye mentor uses a 5" Ruger GP100 on the rare occasions he shoots DR matches, and currently has 6 DR points to his name (he doesn't seem to have any interest in getting a DR badge, or even shooting regular matches). Other shooters use GP100s, Colt Pythons, modern-production S&W Model 686-6's...

I don't think there is a lot of work needed to get a quality-built revolver (S&W, Ruger, or Colt), modern or older production, to shoot well in DR matches; it's more about finding a load (factory or home-brew, as long as it satisfies the DR ammo rules: 158gr round-nose or semi-wadcutter, no hollowpoint, .38 Special) and shooting style (single-action all the way? single-action first shot, double-action subsequent shots? double-action all the way?) that works for the gun and works for the shooter.

Thank you!

kc10x wrote:Thank you!

I have a very strong preference for the pre-mim guns..I do not like frame mounted firing pins..or MIM parts. For bullseye, and PPC, the Model 14s are very hard to beat. When I started shooting BE in the very early 60s, the K-22 and K-38 were still very popular, and I still have the occasional K come thru the door..
Barrels are the major issue. The S&W cylinders are for the most part, very good and consistent. I remove the barrels without exception. Slug the bores, to determine compatibility with the cylinder, Taylor throat to remove the archaic forcing cones and recut the crowns, which are never center on factory guns.. From there, it's action and lock up. There is quite a bit of work to get one really right. I would only accept S&W..Done them all...S&W is it.
Jerry

Jerry Keefer wrote:...There is quite a bit of work to get one really right...

Interesting; if one were to seriously shoot PPC, or shoot in the Harry Reeves Match at Camp Perry and/or shoot DR matches all the time with the intention to win bragging rights, then I could see the need for such involved work.

Or, if someone is just into owning only accurate firearms. Wasn't it Townsend Whelen that said only accurate guns are interesting?

Jerry, I think you need to demonstrate your work. What address should I send my revolver to???? JK, but also serious.

Jerry, would you recommend getting that level of work done on something like a 5-screw 14-2? it gets respectable accuracy out of me and i love shooting it and i'd like to use it as a bullseye gun (it will get similar results from me that my HS does, at least indoors), but it's a old classic and i'm hesitant to have things like the barrel replaced. what are your thoughts?

I got rid of a nice Officer's Model Match because the cylinders were not consistent with each other and because they were all way over the groove diameter. Since I'm not casting anymore I knew it would be a headache trying to find commercial wc's that will shoot in cylinders that pinned .3595 and a groove diameter that slugged .3540-.3545. Yes, those numbers are correct. My M-14 has sweet dimensions-perfect for lead bullets, and I am now shopping around for the right bullet but I know I have a much better shot at finding one with these dimensions.