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Progressive press due order

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gitkrunk
Jwhelan939
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Post by Jwhelan939 5/28/2014, 5:13 pm

Hey all,

I currently reload all of my match 45 on a single stage; however, I have a Hornady progressive I use for plinking ammo. I have been doing more shooting than I can handle loading for and am contemplating starting to use the progressive for match ammo as well. I was just curious as to how you reloaders have your die order. I currently deprime, clean primer pocket, sonic clean brass, size, expand, powder, bullet seat, and crimp. On the progressive I only have 5 spots and 2 are tied up by the powder cop and bullet seater. Just curious as to your stages. Thanks for your opinions.

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Post by Jwhelan939 5/28/2014, 5:15 pm

Sorry, the title should say die order, not due order.

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Post by gitkrunk 5/28/2014, 5:23 pm

On Dillon i deprime/size  then sonic clean.  then i run run back through the deprime size, prime it, expand/powder, bullet seat, crimp.

dillon 550 has room for 4 dies.
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Post by DavidR 5/28/2014, 5:24 pm

1)resize/deprime,  prime, 2) bell case/powder, 3) lock out die, 4) seat bullet 5) taper crimp
this on a horndy LNL. I clean the brass first, have shot thousands of rounds and found no need to  deprime before cleaning or clean primer pockets
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Post by Jwhelan939 5/28/2014, 5:42 pm

I should clarify, the two spots are filled by powder cop and a bullet feeder, not seater.

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Post by 71firebird400 5/28/2014, 5:59 pm

If you're intent on using the bullet feeder then you aren't left with a lot of options-

1. Size/Deprime
2. Powder Measure/Expand (PTX Universal expander)
3. Bullet Feeder
4. Bullet Seater
5. Crimp Die

Alternatively, without the bullet feeder, you could-

1. Size/Deprime
2. Expander Die
3. Powder Measure
4. Bullet Seater
5. Crimp Die

or 

1. Size/Deprime
2. Powder Measure/Expand (PTX Universal expander)
3. Powder Check Die (Lockout or Cop)
4. Bullet Seater
5. Crimp Die

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Post by gitkrunk 5/28/2014, 6:47 pm

DavidR wrote:1)resize/deprime,  prime, 2) bell case/powder, 3) lock out die, 4) seat bullet 5) taper crimp
this on a horndy LNL. I clean the brass first, have shot thousands of rounds and found no need to  deprime before cleaning or clean primer pockets

I think I start cleaning without depriming.
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Post by GrumpyOldMan 5/28/2014, 9:17 pm

It's pistol ammo, not sniper rifle competition stuff.

I just tumble my brass, then run it through the Dillon as:

Size/decap
Expand/charge
Seat/crimp

My "grade 2" cast bullets fired one-handed over a sandbag to check zero at 50 yards went into about 3 inches, and that was WITH probably a 2-inch wobble for three of the six shots.

True, I've never had any handloads hold the X-ring at 50 yards. Strange how many brands of mass-produced .22 ammo can hold the X at 50...

Maybe I'll do more than segregate brass by headstamp. Just got what I want to start weighing the bullets last week.

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Post by james r chapman 5/29/2014, 7:26 am

I have found segregating by headstamp has helped . especially those s&b and Magtech cases. federal and starline seem to match up well. .38 special.
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Post by GrumpyOldMan 5/29/2014, 10:00 am

Oh, the .45 runs through a different machine, same thing, my only prep is tumbling.

Size/decrimp
Expand/prime
Charge
Seat/crimp

Similar results, but I have to stick with the Grade 1 bullets to get 2.5-inch or better at 50 yards. Case neck tension on that one is pretty light. I think the Grade 2 bullets go 4 inches at 50...out of the right gun. Turns out I wasted a lot of ammo testing time with one .45 that was too loose in the barrel/bushing/slide system to do better than...4 to 5 inches at 50 with any type of bullet or ammo.

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Post by DavidR 5/29/2014, 10:41 am

Jwhelan939 wrote:I should clarify, the two spots are filled by  powder cop and a bullet feeder, not seater.

I would do away with the bullet feeder, replace with the seater and hand set your bullets, the goal is accuracy not speed.
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