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.45 shells bullet up or bullet down in box?

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Post by viperrt10 Mon Sep 15, 2014 11:11 pm

Newbee here.... I'm loading a type #130 lswc and they are difficult to grab from the plastic shell box when placed bullet up in the box...stubby little bullet you know. I assume powder would stick to the base of a lubed lead bullet if placed bullet down. Anyone notice a difference in accuracy when shells are retrieved from the shell box bullet up vs. bullet down?   Thanks. Howard 
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Post by Rob Kovach Mon Sep 15, 2014 11:18 pm

Why is there lube on the base of your bullet?

I have always stored my bullets with the tip pointing down, and I haven't noticed any accuracy problems--but since I haven't tried storing them the other way, I guess I don't have that variable to compare it to.
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Post by james r chapman Tue Sep 16, 2014 5:38 am

same way the factory does. down so you can grab the rim
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Post by kwixdraw Tue Sep 16, 2014 1:34 pm

And then there are us clowns that just store them loose in a box or tub. Just so they don't get damaged I think you are fine.
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Post by DavidR Tue Sep 16, 2014 2:35 pm

down .45 shells bullet up or bullet down in box? 1248129716
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Post by Steve B Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:33 pm

Bullets down in the box, but the box is upside down on the shelf.

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Post by SMBeyer Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:23 pm

If you put them bullet down you can see all the primers.  Occasionally you'll miss a primer or one will flip and get loaded backwards.  With the bullet down it is easy to see mistakes.  Much better than that quiet click in the middle of a string!

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Post by Guest Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:02 pm

Bullet down also let's you mark the brass so you can identify it if it does not end up in your net at a match.  Also if you accidentally did not fully seat a primer it is obvious.

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Post by bmac Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:22 pm

ChipEck wrote:Bullet down also let's you mark the brass so you can identify it if it does not end up in your net at a match.  Also if you accidentally did not fully seat a primer it is obvious.

Chip

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Post by kwixdraw Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:38 pm

I do the marking and checking primers when I run the loaded round through the chamber checker. When I catch up with buying boxes to keep my loaded rounds in they will go in bullet down. The nice thing about the boxes is that you can dump out a row of five or ten rounds to load your magazines without having rounds all over or losing count of how many you load.
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Post by viperrt10 Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:43 pm

Good reasons for bullet down. Thank you all . My first match is coming up........Howard

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Post by kwixdraw Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:47 pm

Good luck. Don't sweat the small stuff. You will learn a lot but be sure to have fun doing it.
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Post by DavidR Wed Sep 17, 2014 10:06 am

I shoot with guys who carry their ammo loose in cardboard boxes, ammo cans and even in zip lock bags too so I really don't think it matters much what you do with it long as you can find it when its time to load it in a mag.
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Post by GrumpyOldMan Thu Sep 18, 2014 12:22 am

Bullet lube on the base has never caused variations in velocity or accuracy for me.

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Post by Colt711 Thu Sep 18, 2014 4:13 pm

viperrt10 wrote:Newbee here.... I'm loading a type #130 lswc and they are difficult to grab from the plastic shell box when placed bullet up in the box...stubby little bullet you know. I assume powder would stick to the base of a lubed lead bullet if placed bullet down. Anyone notice a difference in accuracy when shells are retrieved from the shell box bullet up vs. bullet down?   Thanks. Howard 
,


Howard,
If you are experiencing lube on the baase the condition must be eliminated. Ammo in the sun on a hot summer day can have the pdr chg contaminted either by lying against the lube on the base or, if the bullet is up, melted lube can flow into the powder.

Ron


Last edited by Colt711 on Thu Sep 18, 2014 4:15 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : 9-18-14 punctuation)

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Post by viperrt10 Thu Sep 18, 2014 9:20 pm

Thank you Ron. Just the kind of insight I was looking for.    Howard.

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Post by 243winxb Fri Sep 19, 2014 1:06 pm

When the primer fires, most of the powder is slammed against the bullets base.   Lube melts a different  temperatures
























   .45 shells bullet up or bullet down in box? BulletLubeMeltingPoints
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Post by GrumpyOldMan Fri Sep 19, 2014 3:35 pm

See my post above, on Wed Sep 17, 2014 11:22 pm

My experience includes using up the last of some NRA style 50/50 Alox/Beeswax, which in my life ALWAYS gets exposed above its melt temp at least twice before getting fired.

A smear of lube left on the bullet bases has never made a difference in velocity or accuracy. Or ignition.

I also learned about 20 years ago that even Break*Free(tm) dropped into a primer takes a long time to de-activate them.

These systems are robust, and not susceptible to drastic effects from minor adulteration like some foaming chemicals, pharmaceuticals, or cancer cell tissue samples are.

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Post by Colt711 Fri Sep 19, 2014 10:21 pm

GrumpyOldMan wrote:See my post above, on Wed Sep 17, 2014 11:22 pm

My experience includes using up the last of some NRA style 50/50 Alox/Beeswax, which in my life ALWAYS gets exposed above its melt temp at least twice before getting fired.

A smear of lube left on the bullet bases has never made a difference in velocity or accuracy. Or ignition.

I also learned about 20 years ago that even Break*Free(tm) dropped into a primer takes a long time to de-activate them.

These systems are robust, and not susceptible to drastic effects from minor adulteration like some foaming chemicals, pharmaceuticals, or cancer cell tissue samples are.

I have experienced otherwise, much to my chagrin. I always protect guns & ammo from direct sunlight.

R       Very Happy

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Post by GrumpyOldMan Fri Sep 19, 2014 11:10 pm

Colt711 wrote:
GrumpyOldMan wrote:[snip
A smear of lube left on the bullet bases has never made a difference in velocity or accuracy. Or ignition.
[snip]

I have experienced otherwise, much to my chagrin. I always protect guns & ammo from direct sunlight.

R       Very Happy
Sorry to hear about that.

I never said my ammo reached Alox/Beeswax melty in only in direct sunlight. Trunk does it too, as well as the back seat and on the floor in the back.

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