Roll trigger for 1911

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Roll trigger for 1911

Post by Ghillieman on 9/25/2014, 2:37 pm

I am rebuilding my 1911 hardball pistol and would like to change the trigger to a roll trigger. Can anyone explain in detail the steps to do so or point me to some literature on the subject.
Thanks.
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Ghillieman

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Re: Roll trigger for 1911

Post by STEVE SAMELAK on 9/25/2014, 2:41 pm

Is it worth your time, or is it that you would rather do it your self?
My call would be to KC Customs & just buy one.
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Re: Roll trigger for 1911

Post by dronning on 9/25/2014, 5:09 pm

Ghillieman wrote:I am rebuilding my 1911 hardball pistol and would like to change the trigger to a roll trigger. Can anyone explain in detail the steps to do so or point me to some literature on the subject.
Thanks.

Not sure how many triggers you have done but I've done a few and I burned through several parts before I got one that was acceptable and safe.

It was replaced with one of KC's kits, fact is I now have 3 KC roll trigger kits in my bullseye guns.  22 Conversion, wad gun and my hardball gun.  I was so impressed with the drop in trigger I'm having KC build me a CF gun.

Dave
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Re: Roll trigger for 1911

Post by DavidR on 9/26/2014, 9:33 am

A roll is achieved with a hammer with .20 or longer hooks and a sear with a larger primary angle. The difference in a roll and a creepy trigger is the amount of polishing you do. Or buy one of KC's kits and try that.
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Re: Roll trigger for 1911

Post by Ghillieman on 9/26/2014, 1:37 pm

Thank you David R.
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Re: Roll trigger for 1911

Post by Jon Eulette on 9/26/2014, 2:07 pm

In my experience a hammer with long full cock notch creeps instead of rolls. I get short and medium rolls with .018 notch. If you want a longer roll I highly recommend KC Crawford ' s roll trigger kit. It's the best long roll out there and it'll last.
Jon
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chuck warner's true radius sear jig

Post by Art on 9/27/2014, 4:06 pm

I spent years stoning sears to get a roll trigger.  
The old school recipe was very long hammer hooks and little or no secondary cut on the sear and high polish on sear and hammer.

Trial and error and a lot of sears later, I did get pretty good rolls.

Then Chuck Warner came up with the true radius sear jig and Viola!  roll trigger pulls became very easy with no need for long hammer hooks.

The nose of the sear is stoned to a radius the length of the center of the sear pin to the nose of the sear.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/trigger-job-tools/stoning-fixtures/h-d-true-radius-stoning-jig-sear-prod56130.aspx

https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/instructions-for-hd-805-tr-sear-jig

The amount of roll is controlled by the amount of secondary or relief cut on the sear.  And Jerry Keefer's third angle is the eraser if you take too much off the sear and want to get back more roll.  The third angle is 45 degrees off the secondary cut or 90 degrees off the primary sear surface.

I'm glad there's some smart guys out there I can learn from.

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