is necessary loctite???

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is necessary loctite???

Post by SW-52 on 3/29/2016, 8:15 am

is necessary to the scope mount to the barrel apply loctite for a .22 pistol vibration???
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Wobbley on 3/29/2016, 8:34 am

A PROPERLY torqued screw shouldn't loosen.  That said it isn't easy to apply proper torque to a small screw.  So apply loctite (the removable kind).

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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by AllAces on 3/29/2016, 9:18 am

Purple Locktite is the easiest to remove and has sufficient strength for small screws.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by BE Mike on 3/29/2016, 9:50 am

I've used blue Loctite for decades for everything gun related, including scope rings. It works great.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by SW-52 on 3/29/2016, 10:18 am

BE Mike wrote:I've used blue Loctite for decades for everything gun related, including scope rings. It works great.
i order blue loctite,for a secure mount and secure base to barrel.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by SW-52 on 3/29/2016, 10:20 am

thanks to all for the help!
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by 1joel1 on 3/30/2016, 9:20 am

Blue Loctite 242 is good. A properly torqued screw will loosen that is why screws are often torqued and loctited. Different purposes will require different thread dressings. If you are removing the scope mount often to clean your pistol, then I would skip the loctite. If you are rarely going to remove the screw, then use it, however, best practice is to replace the screw once removed. Also, low torque values are NOT difficult to apply, one just needs the proper tools and technique.

JMHO and years of engine rebuilding,

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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Jack H on 3/30/2016, 10:31 am

OP says for 22 screws.  I use 6x32 (Std on Hi Std) and 6x40.  I square the tapped holes with a bottom tap and cut screws to the max length in max deep holes.  With no loctite, never had one come loose in 40+ years.  I even oil the threads and torque by feel.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by 1joel1 on 3/30/2016, 10:35 am

Yes, there are some details missing from the OP, but personally, I don't use loctite. I even use some oil, as you do, or anti-seize, a smidge, if the metals are different material. 

Jack H goes the extra 2 miles and does it right!

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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Jack H on 3/30/2016, 10:52 am

I also do this on aluminum rings.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Rob Kovach on 3/30/2016, 5:03 pm

I never use loctite on any of my gun things...especially not on dissimilar metals. If the holes are properly drilled, you shouldn't have trouble.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by SW-52 on 3/30/2016, 5:08 pm

the scope rings are Factory  ultradot plastic rings.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Rob Kovach on 3/30/2016, 5:18 pm

I use the factory Ultradot rings--many people say they are junk, but I like them and have never had trouble EVER.

I never use loctite on my Ultradot rings. I always tighten the bottom screws first then the top screw second.

P.S. all of the ultradot factory rings that I have seen are aluminum, not plastic.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by SW-52 on 3/30/2016, 5:44 pm

Rob Kovach wrote:I use the factory Ultradot rings--many people say they are junk, but I like them and have never had trouble EVER.

I never use loctite on my Ultradot rings.  I always tighten the bottom screws first then the top screw second.

P.S. all of the ultradot factory rings that I have seen are aluminum, not plastic.
 
Yes Rob,are aluminum,sorry for my mistake.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Jerry Keefer on 3/30/2016, 8:22 pm

A great deal depends on the quality of the thread.. Both the internal and external mating surfaces.. How the holes were tapped.. By unsupported hand, or supported between centers or machine tapped..A large percentage of tapped holes leave something to be desired..
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Bullshooter on 3/31/2016, 5:39 am

I have been using the UltraDot rings for many years with no problems. Particularly on a slide-mounted .45, I like them because they are low and light. My short line load is a 200 grain H&G 68 with 3.6 Bullseye and I use a 14 lb recoil spring - can't do that with heavier rings. No they aren't repeatable when removed, but I never remove them, so moot point. And no Loctite, just make sure they are gripping tightly (some mounts require some added help from friction tape) and tighten the bottom screws completely first.

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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Jerry Keefer on 3/31/2016, 8:02 am

Difference in perceptions.. I think all U dot rings should melted down and re cycled into beer cans .
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Virgil Kane on 3/31/2016, 8:17 am

Jerry Keefer wrote:Difference in perceptions.. I think all U dot rings should melted down and re cycled into beer cans .


Why ruin the taste of beer ????  Sad

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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by rich.tullo on 4/4/2016, 12:28 pm

SW-52 wrote:the scope rings are Factory  ultradot plastic rings.
I think they are Aluminum but nerveless, the threads on those should not need to be doped or tightened down very hard. However, sometimes a ring won't stay and for that I recommend first using 

http://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-213-Threadmate-Threadlocker-Degree/dp/B0088YEGXM/ref=sr_1_18?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1459790664&sr=1-18-spons&keywords=locking+threads&psc=1

Before going to Blue Locktite.
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Re: is necessary loctite???

Post by Bigtrout on 4/5/2016, 8:09 am

My riflesmith friend shoots a round then re-tightens the rings and repeats for 5 rounds.  He claims the shock/tightening sequence strengthens thread bonding permanence.  He does not use Loctite on customers' scope rings unless they specifically request it.  I don't know if this is a good method for center fire pistols.  I tried it with my U-dot HD Micro on my 986 and ended up using blue Loctite on the single-screw rail clamp. I also used blue Loctite for my FF3 on my RO9 when the mounting screws loosened after 200 rounds.
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