Blued or stainless parts

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Blued or stainless parts

Post by Mightyheb on 4/16/2017, 6:15 pm

Need advice.  I am looking to purchase 1911 lower parts minus the frame. I have a choice between blued and Stainless steel. This will be for a lower for my Nelson 22 conversion. It will be used strictly for bullseye matches

Thanks in advance.  Any gunsmiths opinion would be great as I imagine some work will need to be done
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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by SW-52 on 4/16/2017, 6:32 pm

Mightyheb wrote:Need advice.  I am looking to purchase 1911 lower parts minus the frame. I have a choice between blued and Stainless steel. This will be for a lower for my Nelson 22 conversion. It will be used strictly for bullseye matches

Thanks in advance.  Any gunsmiths opinion would be great as I imagine some work will need to be done
I prefer blued or parkerized. Never like stainless or nickel. My next project will be a Nelson conversion unit in a dedicated lower.
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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by VolScorpion on 4/16/2017, 6:39 pm

What are the details for your lower build? I am still looking for a dedicated lower for a nelson

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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by Mightyheb on 4/16/2017, 6:53 pm

For the sake of not sounding like a total moron. I am not sure what details you mean so I will tell you what I'm doing. I found Kimber 1911 lower parts new for $150 shipped. I can send you the parts list, just PM me.  I am looking at frames by stealth arms which would $205 for what I need which is bobtail for continuity. Then off to the gunsmith as I would not have a chance of putting it together.  I have tried and can't for the life of me find a complete 1911 dedicated lower.  I hope this helps
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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by VolScorpion on 4/16/2017, 7:01 pm

How much will that be for a gunsmith to fit the parts?

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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by Mightyheb on 4/16/2017, 7:11 pm

I am waiting on him right now to answer me. I should know tonight. I will let you know.

This will tell me if it's worth it or not. Then I have to decide if I buy a used or new gun and sell the upper.  What a PIA


Last edited by Mightyheb on 4/16/2017, 7:13 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added info)
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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by VolScorpion on 4/16/2017, 7:15 pm

That's what I'm considering, but I don't know of anyone willing to purchase an upper

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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by C.Perkins on 4/16/2017, 7:39 pm

Hello (Mr. Gunsmith);

I would like to send you a complete .45 1911 pistol and .22 conversion unit to be assembled and tuned.
What will the charge be if you keep all the upper components that I do not need for this build ?
Etc...

Been there, done that.

YMMV

Clarence
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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by LenV on 4/16/2017, 9:29 pm

Mightyheb wrote:For the sake of not sounding like a total moron. I am not sure what details you mean so I will tell you what I'm doing. I found Kimber 1911 lower parts new for $150 shipped. I can send you the parts list, just PM me.  I am looking at frames by stealth arms which would $205 for what I need which is bobtail for continuity. Then off to the gunsmith as I would not have a chance of putting it together.  I have tried and can't for the life of me find a complete 1911 dedicated lower.  I hope this helps
The lower parts for a Kimber may or may not fit in your new lower. The II series uses the grip safety to release the firing pin and internals are modified to fit.

Len
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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by Dr.Don on 4/16/2017, 10:08 pm

I know nothing about Stealth Arms frames, but Brownells has standard stainless frames in stock for $200.  If you want a checkered carbon frame they have that for $267.  Go with a frame brand BE gunsmiths find to be good stock for a build (Springfield, Caspian, STI, there are others).  If you are looking to find the lowest cost and cannot do the work yourself, what Clarence suggests may be the best course to take.
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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by Froneck on 4/17/2017, 12:05 am

I work with stainless steel every day. I make more stainless steel chips than any other metal I'm very familiar with all the grades. Simply put Stainless Steel is not as strong as other steels. When buying gun parts I chose alloy steel! Only advantage of Stainless steel is it don't rust. However there are a few grades of stainless steel that is very strong. 17-4PH and 15-5PH but those alloys are expensive.

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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by Axehandle on 4/17/2017, 5:46 am

I like stainless for stuff like the grip safety, thumb safety, and mainspring housing.  When smoothness matters I like carbon steel.

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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by james r chapman on 4/17/2017, 6:41 am

For a Nelson, would it matter??
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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by Axehandle on 4/17/2017, 6:50 am

For me yes...  Stainless likes to stick to itself.   Carbon steel is slick.  Slick is good for stuff like frame rails.  Good for hammer, sear, disconnector and associated pins too

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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by SW-52 on 4/17/2017, 9:44 am

VolScorpion wrote:What are the details for your lower build? I am still looking for a dedicated lower for a nelson
checkered front strap.roll trigger kit,medium harrison solid trigger,blue or park fram,checkered flat mainspring housing. kc build dedicated lowers for nelsons and marvels,visit the webpage for price and options.
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Re: Blued or stainless parts

Post by LenV on 4/17/2017, 10:41 am

Looking for a complete lower? This is a budget complete lower. The price is right. You can change the trigger, hammer, sear etc. at your leisure. You might have to remove the 9mm extractor. These frames are a gamble. Some have perfect holes and alignment. Some don't. NFI  280.00 buy it now price. NFI

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/638619232
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