Black Powder & Bullseye ??

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Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by mikemyers on Wed May 30 2018, 14:10

The club I belong to has a group that shoots black powder guns once a month, on the same range we use for Bullseye shooting.
    http://www.hrpclub.info
I got to wondering if there is any Bullseye competition using these guns.  I'm guessing not, but am curious.

Years ago, I wanted to try it, but everything seemed way too complicated.  Then I got a black powder gun from a friend, but have never used it.  I keep thinking I'll go to one of those get-togethers, and see what it's like.  Getting together with people who know about something is the best way to learn.

Anybody else here do that?
Sounds like a low-key way to have an enjoyable day doing something very different......

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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by jmdavis on Wed May 30 2018, 14:28

There are national and international competitions with black powder. Some are with BP revolvers, others with single shot pistol. They generally use paper targets and are precision events in the same manner as bullseye. 

My personal experience is limited to roundball rifle competition.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by jglenn21 on Wed May 30 2018, 15:33

Jason should be alone soon to explain it all given he is a national Champ with the Muzzle loading pistols
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by lyman1903 on Wed May 30 2018, 16:58

I have and have shot a few cap and ball pistols, but not for comps, 

most fun I have had with black powder is shooting  a Brown Bess, 

Flints are fun, and gave me some perspective of what my patriot ancestors went thru

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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by mikemyers on Wed May 30 2018, 22:42

I watched some videos last night, including one about my Ruger.  I've always thought of black powder shooting as a way to just enjoy myself, take the pressure off, and learn what people used to have to do.  I've been trying to get into it for at least 25 years, but way back when, I never bought one of the guns, and now that I have one I'm spending so much time doing other things at the range and reloading bench.

I read that there are special safety concerns, about how to store the powder and so on.  I still need to learn about those too.  Not sure who Jason is, but I hope to hear from him too.

The gun in the photo I posted above - it's not literally "my" gun, but it's the same gun.  Apparently they're no longer for sale, other than used, but even though people say it's not "accurately realistic", they also say it's the best one ever made, using modern technology to build an old style gun.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Bullseye_Stan on Thu May 31 2018, 06:45

I've got a Ruger Old Army circa 1978.  It's not a replica of any revolver and is built on a Blackhawk frame.  Black powder has more static electricity safety concerns than pyrodex or any of the smokeless powders for DOT transportation regulations.  Some people are terrified of historical black powder made of KN03, sulfur, and carbon;  I think those same folks (IMO) are also terrified of acetylene. 

That said, years ago I shot some FFFg black powder though mine (still have the metal can), but most of the powder was Hogden Pyrodex.  The Old Army is a very accurate revolver and fun to shoot.  Need an outdoor range though.

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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Jon Math on Thu May 31 2018, 08:38

I shoot a lot of BP-shotguns, smoothbore fowlers, rifled long rifles, military muskets, pistols revolvers fling and percussion.  I hunt and shoot competitively with the stuff.  At a local level it is a lot of fun, kind of a relaxed pace, and everyone and their brother will be happy to help you along.  However, if you start getting serious about it be aware in matches they split seconds and are just about at the decimal scoring point.  Like all competitive sports everyone is pushing the rules, race tuning firearms, and it stops being fun and starts being work to get to the top, and it gets every bit as expensive as any shooting sport, more so as BP gunsmiths are few and far between—and they know how to bill for their time Very Happy
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by mikemyers on Thu May 31 2018, 09:22

Bullseye_Stan wrote:I've got a Ruger Old Army circa 1978.  It's not a replica of any revolver and is built on a Blackhawk frame.  Black powder has more static electricity safety concerns than pyrodex or any of the smokeless powders for DOT transportation regulations.  Some people are terrified of historical black powder made of KN03, sulfur, and carbon;  I think those same folks (IMO) are also terrified of acetylene. 

That said, years ago I shot some FFFg black powder though mine (still have the metal can), but most of the powder was Hogden Pyrodex.  The Old Army is a very accurate revolver and fun to shoot.  Need an outdoor range though.
I found this review:
      https://www.chuckhawks.com/ruger_old_army_syn.htm
I've read it, and watched the video.

I have no idea yet of any special safety concerns.  If it's sitting on a shelf, in the original container, is it "safe"?
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Jon Math on Thu May 31 2018, 09:33

You might want to discreetly check about local bylaws and State laws for Black Powder storage.  Many places require a storage permit – locally for me they are issued by the fire department, but might be the town hall or police/sheriff where you are or none might be required at all.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Tim:H11 on Thu May 31 2018, 13:30

Mikemyers, I’m Jason Gregoire. I’ve shot muzzleloading pistols competitively very aggressively for four years. Not a lot of time in any sport. But in that time I went from an absolute newbie to winning the NRA Nationals in 2015, and NMLRA Nationals in 2015, 2016, and 2017. I hold two national records; one with a revolver and the other is the grand aggregate record previously set in 1964. I am also one of 28 Distinguished masters since they started it in 1962. 

You should look up the National Muzzle Loading Riffle Association. The pistol event is like bullseye. Three guns, single shot percussion, single shot flint, and percussion revolver. The Nationals is a 1000 point agg. 300 cap, 300 flint, and 400 revolver. We shoot the same targets that we do in Bullseye both at 25 and 50 yards. Rules are one handed standing like in Bullseye.

My guns. 

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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by jmdavis on Thu May 31 2018, 13:37

Jason, 

Is your percussion single shot from Hamilton?
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Jon Math on Thu May 31 2018, 13:47

Long way from Dan Boone’s pistols.  Those are works of art.  What caliber are they?
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Tim:H11 on Thu May 31 2018, 13:48

jmdavis wrote:Jason, 

Is your percussion single shot from Hamilton?

No. The 10 Ring Precision Pistol are different. Similar in design but the grips for his are 1911 grips. This frame the maker chose a smith model 41 to model. Those are Herrett Nationals for a 41.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Tim:H11 on Thu May 31 2018, 13:49

Jon Math wrote:Long way from Dan Boone’s pistols.  Those are works of art.  What caliber are they?

Cap is .36, Flint is .32, and revolver is a 45.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Jon Math on Thu May 31 2018, 13:58

Tim:H11 wrote:
Jon Math wrote:Long way from Dan Boone’s pistols.  Those are works of art.  What caliber are they?

Cap is .36, Flint is .32, and revolver is a 45.

Thanks!  Are those production pistols or custom built? 
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by mikemyers on Thu May 31 2018, 14:49

Tim:H11 wrote:Mikemyers, I’m Jason Gregoire. I’ve shot muzzleloading pistols competitively very aggressively for four years. Not a lot of time in any sport. But in that time I went from an absolute newbie to winning the NRA Nationals in 2015, and NMLRA Nationals in 2015, 2016, and 2017. ............You should look up the National Muzzle Loading Riffle Association. The pistol event is like bullseye. ........
Sounds fascinating, and your guns look beautiful!  I'm impressed.   But I'm also aware that I've never shot one, ever, and other than watching and reading, had no idea where to start....   and I need to learn what I need to know about safety before I get serious about doing anything beyond looking.

My plan is to go to the next Black Powder day at my club I can get to, July 20th.

From what all you guys are saying, it sounds like Black Powder could be a bigger part of Bulls... er, Precision Shooting.  I'll look into the things you wrote about.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by jglenn21 on Thu May 31 2018, 14:59

back when I played with BP pistols the Lyman book was my bible

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Powder-Handbook-Loading-Manual/dp/B0000C6I4U

still hunt with my Thompson Center Hawkin in 50 cal.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Tim:H11 on Thu May 31 2018, 19:07

First thing you need to know and understand before you start pouring and packing stuff down inside the barrel or chambers of a gun, is that black powder is an explosive not a propellant. It is utilized as a propellant in firearms but it is an explosive. You need to know the laws pertaining to such an item in your home town and or state as well as take the proper safety percussion’s necessary so you can avoid the loss of life or limb. Having said that black powder is loads and loads of fun when handled correctly. 

The second thing you should know is that there are a lot of myths and truths to black powder, pyrodex, and muzzleloading firearms. Many times these myths are passed on as truths and can cause someone to avoid a perfectly safe and very useful technique in the way of caution or quite the opposite and leave a newbie in a dangerous or potentially dangerous situation. It’s important to search information from more than one source and take account as to who the source is and what this persons experience level is. 

Now, I’ve already thrown out a word that raises lights and sirens where I’m from. Prydoex. I would advise you to just leave that stuff on the shelf at the store where it belongs. Myth/fact about Purodex Number one: it’s cleaner than black powder.... answer: well, yes... maybe. But it’s not worth the risk. Risk you ask? Yes risk. Which explains myth/truth number too: Pyrodex is less corrosive than black powder.  .... No! It’s not! From what I’ve seen it’s worse! Horrible wretched stuff it is! Unless you deep clean and I mean REALLY clean your gun, it will corrode and rust your prized fire spitzen, smoken beltchen, louden boomer! Don’t do it! Please! There is a barrel on display sometimes at Friendship Indiana during the shoots. It was shot with pyrodex, left overnight, then cut open the next day to show the effects. Rusted to hell and back and pitted like a gravel road that needed an overhaul five years ago. Total loss. Black powder? Some rust. It was removable. Pitting? Minor if any. 

The thing about muzzleloaders and cleaning is when your done with that gun for an extended period of time or the day then clean the gun and grease it up for storage. Stay on top of it. Black powder is corrosive. Pyrodex is the devil. 

Your revolver is a Ruger Old Army. It’s loosely based off the Remington 1858 New Model Army revolver in army caliber or 44 caliber. It is accurate. And quite collectible to the right kind of people. It however can be difficult to shoot well for some. It is built like a tank. It is heavy, and poorly balanced. But mechanically they shoot good. I’ve seen many in competive use at Friendship. Some reworked, some stock. 

The big thing about revolvers is avoiding a chain fire. A chain fire, if you don’t already know, is when the chamber you’re firing ultimately causes one or two other chambers on either side of the intended chamber to also touch off. Not a fun experience. I was beside one when it happened once. I was not injured nor was the shooter but we both had had enough of that for one lifetime. 

What causes a chain fire? There are many ideas as to why and some are hard to prove. Bottom line is simple. Have the right size ball for your gun so that the ball seals the chamber when it’s loaded. It should cut a ring of lead perfectly and be unbroken. You also want to use a “bullet lubricant”. Many put a grease over the top of the chambers. Some claim “it’s to avoid a chain fire”. It’s not. It’s a bullet lubricant that helps with leading and keeps fouling soft. This isn’t a patched ball, it’s lead on bore. We use bullet lube on our lead bullets in conventional metallic cartridges so why not here right? It’s not to prevent a chain fire though it could help some. It’s intended purpose has to do with the bore. And lastly crimp or squeeze your percussion caps slightly so they wedge on to the nipples and stay on in recoil. If one were to come off, the spark from one nipple could ignite the next chamber if the nipple wasn’t covered. Touch hole size, cylinder dimensions, and nipple length play a role as to wether it’s possible for this to happen or no but regardless, the idea is seal the front of the chamber, and seal the back. How else could the powder be ignited? It can’t. 

My load was 18 grains of Goex 3F black powder, cornmeal filled to top flush on top of the powder, and a .454 ball loaded on top. I used white lithium grease as a bullet lube. I loaded the cylinder on a press separate from the gun. It had a control for seat depth so every shot was loaded the same. My load, with the amount of cornmeal I used was a compressed charge. Safe, but snappy. Revolvers shoot best when the ball is flush with face of the cylinder. My press allowed me to do so. You’ll have to do just play around with what you have. It’ll shoot accurate enough. Perhaps not at 50 yards but 25 yards or closer and you’ll be ok. 

I used a filler (cornmeal) because the ball was at the top, and the powder was on the bottom creating a void between the two. In black powder, you don’t want a void between charge and projectile. Black powder has a burn rate far byond that of smokeless powder and so the gases created in that void can cause pressures to spike prior to the projectile clearing the muzzle leaving you with a bulge in your barrel or worse. This pertains to single shots both rifle and pistol. Revolver.... truthfully I don’t know and don’t want to find out the hard way. Use a filler if the ball is elevated and the charge is small. And even if you’re loading on the gun, and don’t have crontrol over seat depth, use a filler. It’s another added blocker to the powder from the front at least making a chain fire from the front pretty much impossible to occur. 

About burn rate... ever see in the movie the stupid guy making a trail of black powder from a wood barrel powder keg tying to use it as a fuse? It burns slow on TV right? That’s false. In real life the trail burns so fast it’s nearly impossible to follow it with the eye. In fact I tried it once. The line was too long and the powder as it burns - explodes, remember it’s an explosive, - it can push some of the “next-in-line” powder forward thus breaking the line and stopping the burn. This occurred for me. 

There’s so much more to say... for now think on these things and take it one step at a time. As you play with this new aspect of shooting and questions pop up feel free to send me a PM. And if your a smoker, don’t smoke while dealing with this stuff, or smoke around someone who’s dealing with this stuff. You don’t want to be the guy that has to explain to the range Officer why half of a can went off next to what used to be your Loading kit.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by mikemyers on Thu May 31 2018, 22:56

Tim:H11 wrote:First thing you need to know and understand before you start pouring and packing stuff down inside the barrel or chambers of a gun, is that black powder is an explosive not a propellant. It is utilized as a propellant in firearms but it is an explosive. You need to know the laws pertaining to such an item in your home town and or state as well as take the proper safety percussion’s necessary so you can avoid the loss of life or limb.........
There's a huge amount of information in what you wrote, which I know nothing about.  Nothing.  And what I thought I knew was wrong.

Just one quick question - is it even safe to have a can of black powder in your home?  Following laws and regulations is important, but it's even more important to avoid what I guess would be an  explosion.  I had *no* idea of the differences between black powder and smokeless powder.  

How do you deal with this yourself, in order to be safe?  I've obviously got a lot more questions, but if it isn't "safe" to store black powder in one's condo or apartment, then everything else is irrelevant, I'm not going to do any of it.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Tim:H11 on Thu May 31 2018, 23:33

Yes it’s legal to have a can. At one time I’ve had a case here. 1 can is 1 pound. A case is 25 cans. So for me if my house were to ever catch fire and it was getting out of control or near my powder storage, then it’s time to get out and get back. Keep in mind when I say explosive, it has a fast burn rate but to be violent it needs to be contained or under pressure. If a can was uncapped on a bench and somehow ignited it would make a ton of smoke, peel open the can and blow away with little damage anything near by. Stuff goes boom under pressure. No pressure or containment rather means your pressure levels can’t rise and build. 

How to store it? Cool dry place. An old cooler works good. In the summer when the house gets warm it keeps the temp changes with the AC from affecting it - if it does at all. Just keeps its separated from anything. It can’t go off from a static charge. Myth. They sell it in plastic cans. “Non static plastic cans”??? I don’t know. Another myth maybe ....?  

I handle it like anything else. It needs a hot spark or flame to ignite. Static is no threat in a home or range environment.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Bullseye_Stan on Fri Jun 01 2018, 06:34

I think the sensitivity to static charge sparks is overblown as well.  Although, sparks will set off black powder - which is how flintlocks operate.  There is a reason that smokeless powder and pyrodex type powders have a different DOT classification with the most obvious being that black powder is flammable.  I have no serious concerns storing up to 25 lb of black powder: but I would take some extra precautions about where it was stored.  Internet kitchen table 'science' may or may not be accurate.  I think these same folks could 'show' that static charge won't ignite gasoline.

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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by mikemyers on Wed Aug 29 2018, 09:01

Tim:H11 wrote:First thing you need to know and understand before you start pouring and packing stuff down inside the barrel or chambers of a gun, is that black powder is an explosive not a propellant. It is utilized as a propellant in firearms but it is an explosive. You need to know the laws pertaining to such an item in your home town and or state as well as take the proper safety percussion’s necessary so you can avoid the loss of life or limb. Having said that black powder is loads and loads of fun when handled correctly. 

The second thing you should know is that there are a lot of myths and truths to black powder, pyrodex, and muzzleloading firearms. Many times these myths are passed on as truths and can cause someone to avoid a perfectly safe and very useful technique in the way of caution or quite the opposite and leave a newbie in a dangerous or potentially dangerous situation. It’s important to search information from more than one source and take account as to who the source is and what this persons experience level is. 

Now, I’ve already thrown out a word that raises lights and sirens where I’m from. Prydoex. I would advise you to just leave that stuff on the shelf at the store where it belongs. Myth/fact about Purodex Number one: it’s cleaner than black powder.... answer: well, yes... maybe. But it’s not worth the risk. Risk you ask? Yes risk. Which explains myth/truth number too: Pyrodex is less corrosive than black powder.  .... No! It’s not! From what I’ve seen it’s worse! Horrible wretched stuff it is! Unless you deep clean and I mean REALLY clean your gun, it will corrode and rust your prized fire spitzen, smoken beltchen, louden boomer! Don’t do it! Please! There is a barrel on display sometimes at Friendship Indiana during the shoots. It was shot with pyrodex, left overnight, then cut open the next day to show the effects. Rusted to hell and back and pitted like a gravel road that needed an overhaul five years ago. Total loss. Black powder? Some rust. It was removable. Pitting? Minor if any. 

The thing about muzzleloaders and cleaning is when your done with that gun for an extended period of time or the day then clean the gun and grease it up for storage. Stay on top of it. Black powder is corrosive. Pyrodex is the devil. 

Your revolver is a Ruger Old Army. It’s loosely based off the Remington 1858 New Model Army revolver in army caliber or 44 caliber. It is accurate. And quite collectible to the right kind of people. It however can be difficult to shoot well for some. It is built like a tank. It is heavy, and poorly balanced. But mechanically they shoot good. I’ve seen many in competive use at Friendship. Some reworked, some stock. 

The big thing about revolvers is avoiding a chain fire. A chain fire, if you don’t already know, is when the chamber you’re firing ultimately causes one or two other chambers on either side of the intended chamber to also touch off. Not a fun experience. I was beside one when it happened once. I was not injured nor was the shooter but we both had had enough of that for one lifetime. 

What causes a chain fire? There are many ideas as to why and some are hard to prove. Bottom line is simple. Have the right size ball for your gun so that the ball seals the chamber when it’s loaded. It should cut a ring of lead perfectly and be unbroken. You also want to use a “bullet lubricant”. Many put a grease over the top of the chambers. Some claim “it’s to avoid a chain fire”. It’s not. It’s a bullet lubricant that helps with leading and keeps fouling soft. This isn’t a patched ball, it’s lead on bore. We use bullet lube on our lead bullets in conventional metallic cartridges so why not here right? It’s not to prevent a chain fire though it could help some. It’s intended purpose has to do with the bore. And lastly crimp or squeeze your percussion caps slightly so they wedge on to the nipples and stay on in recoil. If one were to come off, the spark from one nipple could ignite the next chamber if the nipple wasn’t covered. Touch hole size, cylinder dimensions, and nipple length play a role as to wether it’s possible for this to happen or no but regardless, the idea is seal the front of the chamber, and seal the back. How else could the powder be ignited? It can’t. 

My load was 18 grains of Goex 3F black powder, cornmeal filled to top flush on top of the powder, and a .454 ball loaded on top. I used white lithium grease as a bullet lube. I loaded the cylinder on a press separate from the gun. It had a control for seat depth so every shot was loaded the same. My load, with the amount of cornmeal I used was a compressed charge. Safe, but snappy. Revolvers shoot best when the ball is flush with face of the cylinder. My press allowed me to do so. You’ll have to do just play around with what you have. It’ll shoot accurate enough. Perhaps not at 50 yards but 25 yards or closer and you’ll be ok. 

I used a filler (cornmeal) because the ball was at the top, and the powder was on the bottom creating a void between the two. In black powder, you don’t want a void between charge and projectile. Black powder has a burn rate far byond that of smokeless powder and so the gases created in that void can cause pressures to spike prior to the projectile clearing the muzzle leaving you with a bulge in your barrel or worse. This pertains to single shots both rifle and pistol. Revolver.... truthfully I don’t know and don’t want to find out the hard way. Use a filler if the ball is elevated and the charge is small. And even if you’re loading on the gun, and don’t have crontrol over seat depth, use a filler. It’s another added blocker to the powder from the front at least making a chain fire from the front pretty much impossible to occur. 

About burn rate... ever see in the movie the stupid guy making a trail of black powder from a wood barrel powder keg tying to use it as a fuse? It burns slow on TV right? That’s false. In real life the trail burns so fast it’s nearly impossible to follow it with the eye. In fact I tried it once. The line was too long and the powder as it burns - explodes, remember it’s an explosive, - it can push some of the “next-in-line” powder forward thus breaking the line and stopping the burn. This occurred for me. 

There’s so much more to say... for now think on these things and take it one step at a time. As you play with this new aspect of shooting and questions pop up feel free to send me a PM. And if your a smoker, don’t smoke while dealing with this stuff, or smoke around someone who’s dealing with this stuff. You don’t want to be the guy that has to explain to the range Officer why half of a can went off next to what used to be your Loading kit.
Tim, I am re-reading your post, after my first experience with black powder at the range yesterday.  Bob Crawford, who is the head of the black powder group at my club, spent several hours showing me the basics.  I guess I wasn't that good a student, as I felt overwhelmed, and while I learned individual steps and "what to/not-to" do, I didn't really see the overall picture until I got home and thought it through.  I did get to shoot about six rounds - Bob thought it best to only load one round at a time.  Great idea.  He also explained some of the safety concerns, which you touched on, but you explained some things differently than what we did. When we used the ram to press the ball in place, the ball ended up quite a bit under the end of the chamber.  I've read that for accuracy, the ball should be close to the end of the chamber.  I'm not sure I understand this, as with 20 grains of powder followed by 20 grains of filler, how far into the chamber should the ball be pressed?

On the positive side, the gun was a blast to shoot!!!   Pun intended.  It doesn't feel very well balanced, like my S&W revolvers, but it sounded and looked like a canon going off!  Any "grouping" I was getting was just in my imagination - next time I will put up ONE target on a clean backing board, and both learn how to use the gun, get used to it, and maybe get it sighted in for me.  Doing one chamber at a time was good for my brain, trying to learn something so "alien".  

At the end of the day, the gun came apart, and I washed everything off in the kitchen sink, using dishwasher soap, brass bore brush, a stiff brass brush, and a liberal coat of W(after) D(displacement) 40, then set the parts out in the sun to dry.  Last night, while reading a lot of threads in the Ruger Forum, one person discussed simply putting the gun in the dishwasher, no disassembly, no nothing.  I assume he took off the grips....

My goal right now has nothing to do with competition.  I'd like to learn how to safely shoot it on my own, and clean it that same day.  Bob used 20 grains of black powder - seems fine to me.  He then put "filler" on top, then added the ball, used the ram on the gun to seat things (I pulled the lever as far as I could, until it hit the stop), and then added a bit of grease to the end of the chamber.  I wondered why he didn't seal the chamber with grease, but from what I learned up above, the grease is a lubricant for the bullet going down the barrel, not a sealant.  I didn't remember that.  I have a can of white Lithium grease which I'll probably use in the future - and also a tube of "Lubriplate All Purpose" grease.  I like the idea of having it in a squeeze tube, but either should work.

I'm not sure what to do about loading the gun.  Yesterday, I just held it in my hands as I did the loading, with the muzzle pointing up.  I saw a video last night of a wood stand that held the gun in place.  If I could find a good one for sale, I'd probably buy it.  

To avoid confusion and mistakes, last night I created a checklist of what Bob taught me, and modified it as I read through the Ruger Old Army instruction manual again.  Here's what I have now:

----------------------------------------------------

1              To prevent damage, check that “Base Pin Retaining Pin” is in the proper position, with the slot turned clockwise until it stops.
2              Put one capon the nipple to be used
3              Fire gun to verifynipple hole and barrel are clear
 
 
4              Move hammer from full forward position to half cock (loading) position
5              Align one chamberwith “access notch” (mark cylinder, so I re-use this chamber)
6              Pour 20 grains black powderfrom powder containerinto powder measure
7              Point gun upwards, with right side (with access notch) facing me
8              Pour powderinto the marked chamber in cylinder
9              Add 20 grains of “filler” to this chamber
10           Place 0.457” diameter lead ballinto this chamber
11           Turn cylinder so chamber with powder, filler, and ball is under the Ram(make sure cylinder “locks” in place)
12           Use Ramto press ball, filler, and powder in place 
13           Rotate cylinder so chamber is in front of “access notch”, and add greaseon top of ball and cover the hole
14           Place capin place over the nipple using an appropriate tool or fingers
15           Push capall the way on, using fingertip
16           Advance cylinderto one position before the firing position
17           Ready to shoot full cock the hammer
18           Shoot ballthrough middle of bullseye

----------------------------------------------------

My biggest concern is still the black powder.  While trying to find a good way to keep it safely in my condo, I think I found a reasonable answer.  I can buy one of the better brass "powder flasks" from Cabella's, and keep that in a small box in my closet in my air conditioned condo.  The powder flask holds 5 ounces of powder maximum, but all I would need is maybe two-week's worth of powder.  I can constantly get more from Bob at the range.  This would allow me to get to the range once a week, and practice.  Any advice?


Having seen some other black powder revolvers, I am more and more impressed with the Ruger Old Army.  It is "simple", strong, beautiful, rugged, and nobody has yet said a negative thing about it.  I needed a nipple wrench, and the people at Ruger were a pleasure to deal with.  They are more enthusiastic about the gun than I am - they feel Ruger should still be selling it.

Thanks to all of you who posted up above.
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mikemyers

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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Wobbley on Wed Aug 29 2018, 10:08

In your condo, 5 ounces in a flask probably violates the rules as much as having a truckload.  But it might make sense to have no more than 8 ounces in any one place.  So as your friend for an extra powder bottle and split a pound into two containers in separate areas of the air conditioned home.
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by Jon Math on Wed Aug 29 2018, 11:11

I just opened the box of a Pedersoli Le Page target pistol.  I’m impressed with the technology pistols of that era had.  This is a reproduction but the trigger approaches the quality of the one on my free pistol.  The lock time for a side lock percussion cap ignited machine is nothing to snicker at either.   I had to check back and see who’s responsible for this new shooting interest…actually I have always wanted a Le Page the timing of this post was just coincidence! 
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Jon Math

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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

Post by mikemyers on Wed Aug 29 2018, 11:42

Well, my "problem" might be solved.  While black powder has all these rules and regulations, the local Cabela's store (Bass Pro Shop) tells me that there are no such issues with Pyrodex.  There is a bottle of it sitting right out on the shelf now, which I can pick up on Friday.  Pyrodex RS. $24.99, 16 oz.  

The store assures me there is no legal issue with Pyrodex, unlike black powder.  So, while black powder may be preferable, I think I will go with the Pyrodex.
https://www.cabelas.com/product/Pyrodex-Powder-lb/740637.uts?slotId=0

I still need to order a "powder flask".  Unless someone suggests something better, I think I will go with this one:
https://www.cabelas.com/product/CVA-MUZZLELOADER-CYLINDER-FLASKS/1978097.uts?slotId=1
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Re: Black Powder & Bullseye ??

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