SA RO specific optic rail

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Post by Jon Eulette on Sun Mar 31, 2019 7:34 pm

First topic message reminder :

Show of hands?
Who's interested in an optic rail specifically for the RO? It will stop short of the rear sight and have a slot milled to clear the front sight. 3 mounting screws (#6 or #Cool.
This way you can remove the rail to shoot service pistol and still have irons in place and zeroed.
Jon
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Post by Jon Eulette on Tue Apr 30, 2019 9:30 am

Final prototype approved! Being fab'd now. Should have on hand soon after getting them anodized.
Thanks
Jon
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Post by walt k on Tue Apr 30, 2019 10:58 am

Thanks for the notice. Looking forward to ordering at least two.
I assume the color will be black?

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Post by Jon Eulette on Tue Apr 30, 2019 11:44 am

Yes sir they are black.
Jon
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Post by JimTMich on Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:08 pm

I'm interested.

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Post by radman on Tue Apr 30, 2019 9:17 pm

I am also interested!

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Post by Jon Eulette on Tue Apr 30, 2019 10:12 pm

I will PM everyone who has shown interest in purchasing a rail. Thanks
Jon
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Post by Jon Eulette on Wed May 01, 2019 9:44 am

For those interested in purchasing a RO specific rail please email me. Messaging on this website leaves much to be desired Smile
Expecting rails in 2-3 weeks.
Jon
joneulette at hotmail.com
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Post by Virgil Kane on Wed May 01, 2019 10:31 am

Price ???

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Post by Olde Pilot on Wed May 01, 2019 11:00 am

To heck with the price! It's a Eulette!

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Post by Jon Eulette on Wed May 01, 2019 11:02 am

$45 plus $7.90 shipping
Jon
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Post by Virgil Kane on Wed May 01, 2019 11:09 am

Olde Pilot wrote:To heck with the price! It's a Eulette!

OK then for you it's $90 + $15.80 and Jon can send one to me at no charge and one to you at that price and he still gets the profit for 2 rails at the regular price.
After all at any cost it's an Eulette and I'm sure your willing to share your money with me the same as sharing it with Jon. 

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Post by giretired00 on Fri May 03, 2019 7:05 am

Mr. Jon,

I'd be interested in purchasing one of your rails.

Regards,
Kelly

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Post by spyer40 on Fri May 03, 2019 5:15 pm

Email sent, thanks!

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Post by Deerspy on Thu Jul 04, 2019 1:10 pm

I got mine thanks Jon, questions 1 due you slide it back to even with cut out for rear sight or slightly forward ?
 2 what size threads are the screws I need to buy tap and drill for ?

Thanks Richard

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Post by LenV on Thu Jul 04, 2019 2:38 pm

Deerspy wrote:I got mine thanks Jon, questions 1 due you slide it back to even with cut out for rear sight or slightly forward ?
 2 what size threads are the screws I need to buy tap and drill for ?

Thanks Richard
I mounted mine with the opening mostly centered but erred deliberately with a little extra opening to the rear to give a tiny bit more room for empty casing to clear. 2. The screws provided are 6x40 and you would use a #33 drill bit. I didn't do it that way but that is how the mount came. I enlarged the hole in the mount and used 8x40 screws. I had some here that matched the head diameter on the provided screws. I am not usually inclined to re-engineer anyone's project but after I broke the second tap in the original attempt I might have said a bad word or two and changed the plan. Those little taps are made for gentler hands then mine.

Len
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But it all worked out. I thought I was finished till I dry fired it. Time to set the trigger down to 2.5+ lbs
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Post by Jon Eulette on Thu Jul 04, 2019 10:09 pm

Len I will only use a tap for tapping 6-8 screws then throw it away. I can see the tap start to torsionally twist as they fatigue and dull. Nothing worse then breaking a tap.
Jon
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Post by Wes Lorenz on Thu Jul 04, 2019 11:45 pm

I work for a major aerospace manufacturer. We machine some pre-hardened materials (17-4 and 4140) in the 35-44rc range and use these taps which last a long time. It's also advisable to look into 75% vs 65% tap drills when tapping hardend steels (machinist's Handbook).
Taps http://www.guhring.com/Documents/Catalog/Tools/3994.pdf?version=081516022621
Hope this helps,
Wes

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Post by LenV on Thu Jul 04, 2019 11:48 pm

These were both brand new. I only got them in the mail a couple of days ago. I suspect it was a combination of cheap taps and a undersized drill bit. The bit was marked correctly but I never miked it first. Once I removed the second tap there was no saving that hole. I have a bunch of 8x40 flat base star head screws that were almost short enough. I tapped another hole in a piece of flat plate and after screwing one in to the right length I removed the extra length with a gizz wheel. Threads cleaned up perfectly when I removed from the plate. The screws I used were removed from a Leupold ring. I am not running out of them any time soon.

Len
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Post by Jack H on Fri Jul 05, 2019 12:11 am

Len
Sounds like my adventure tapping the rear ring of a prewar Model 70.  Turned out perfect after I got 2 new taps to finish threading the hole.
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Post by DA/SA on Fri Jul 05, 2019 6:54 am

Quality taps are money well spent, although no tap will withstand much axial loading without breakage. They are meant for torsional loads.

Stay away from taps sold at Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. for this type of job.

Notice that there are two different length screws as well. The two shorter screws are for the front holes.

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Post by farmboy on Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:20 am

I will take one
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Post by Jon Eulette on Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:51 am

PM sent
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Post by WesG on Fri Jul 05, 2019 1:14 pm

The recommendation to go with a lower percentage thread is a good one when tapping hardened materials. In addition, the tap drill charts we all have laying around have been obsolete for at least 60 years. They were developed for a thread, Sellars, with sharp 60 deg points.

The Unified standard has flats and radii, and uses a larger hole. The calculations are in Machinerys Handbook.

And yes, after using charts for over 40 years its damn hard to believe it will be ok using a bigger hole. I still sometimes chicken out on small threads in aluminum.

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Post by hamdenman on Fri Jul 05, 2019 10:43 pm

I’d be interested!

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Post by Jon Eulette on Fri Jul 05, 2019 11:05 pm

PM sent
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