PhotoEscape Aperture Ring Kit

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Post by Jon Eulette on 10/31/2019, 1:29 pm

First topic message reminder :

I’ve been experimenting with the Aperture Ring Kit for the last several months. I initially was only interested in the rear ring (rubber band ring) and was skeptical of the aperture rings.
I was skeptical because of my being set in my ways and not as flexible as I really should be.

I think the Aimpoint 9000 is the best bullseye optic made. The red dot is nice and round and bright even when using a small MOA setting (which I like) and the lens clarity is near perfect. Only thing I do not like about Aimpoint optics is the very fine windage and elevation adjustments.

My first experience with the rubber band ring was positive. I prefer shooting using the red dot as the front sight and the optic tube as the rear sight. So I strive to keep the red dot centered in the optic tube as much as possible. What I immediately noticed about the rubber band ring is that I had less eye bounce as I call it; eye darting from red dot to the optic tube. The optic tube becomes more clear peripherally for me. When I shoot matches I normally show up on minimal amount of sleep and tired right out of the gate. I found that shooting with the rubber band ring I had less felt eye fatigue. At this point I can’t imagine shooting without it.

The aperture rings took some open mindedness on my part. I’ve always liked using 30mm optics and always thought that the extra field of view was an advantage. I initially experimented with the aperture on the rear of the optic tube only because that was our first test parameter. I was here nor there about it and most likely wouldn’t have used it alone. But after getting a prototype front aperture it was like the optic came alive. In other words, I think the combination of the front and rear aperture is the way to go. It seemed to visually help keep the red dot more centered. I found I liked it mostly for slow fire and would change to a larger diameter front aperture for the short line to open up the field of view. I’ve been battling with my eye drifting from/off the red dot on my 5th shot on the short line and throwing a shot in both timed and rapid fire. The smaller field of view has helped to keep my focus on the red dot and not look at the target.

I have tried both bare unfinished aluminum and the red anodized apertures. The bare aluminum is a little bright and the red anodized surface seems to have just the right contrast to keep the red dot the primary objective visually. I’ve shot both with and without overhead cover and find that the red color works well.

The front aperture will appear black when looking through the optic, so the anodizing is purely ascetic. The front aperture size should appear slightly smaller than the rear aperture when looking through the optic. This aids in keeping the red dot easy to find as well as its really the right way to use it. It gives a feeling of a more centered red dot which could for some people lead to better accuracy/grouping. I think it could also be a great training aid as well. When you’re working on grip and wrist consistency with a smaller aperture it will show you inconsistencies better than a large 30mm optic tube.

I found that I had no problems losing the red dot during recoil with the apertures. I found that I preferred a middle ground aperture size from the kit.

I don’t look at the apertures as a gadget or gimmick. They truthfully have merit that I believe can help a shooter be more consistent or grow as a shooter. At a minimum, I would highly recommend the rubber band ring. I will point out that if you do not have a grasp at the fundamentals that using a smaller aperture could be a detriment due to limiting the field of view.

The Aimpoint Micro has a slanted/angled projection inside the optic for the red dot projection. It has always bothered me. I have used the aperture rings on it and like that I can make that disappear.

I have been shooting bullseye since 1989 and at one point was shooting high master 2650 scores. So I have mastered the fundamentals fairly well. I’m saying this because I believe shooters at or near this level probably will not gain as much as a lower classification shooter. But I do believe the rubber band ring to be a huge assist on keeping the optic tube concentric on the red dot.
So I’m interested to see how they continue to work for me in the future.

Jon
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Post by xmastershooter on 11/15/2019, 9:43 am

Ed Hall wrote:Part of the rotation issue with the original filter set is that the actual filter material is held in the plastic rings poorly.  After a little weathering the material becomes free to spin within the rings, so locking the two rings so they can't rotate with a band, tape or such, isn't enough.  However, Super Glue is NOT an answer!  It can fog the lenses in a permanent fashion.  I use a small dab of silicon to fix the filter material to the rings and then a rubber ring to hold the two rings stationary.  I also use the filter set quite sparingly nowadays, but do have it in my box, in case it is of use.

A drop of Superglue would be too much.  I have used the tip of a pin to apply a fraction of a drop to glue down the Polaroid filters.  After 15 years, there has been no fog (frost?) buildup.  Perhaps the material was better back then?  Silicone sounds like a good idea though.

Norman

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Post by lablover on 11/15/2019, 11:51 am

PhotoEscape Aperture Ring Kit - Page 2 C768f210I’m thinking this for testing
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Post by lablover on 11/15/2019, 11:53 am

Thats for the rear lobster claw for my inexpensive Simmons dot on my conversion.  All one piece and slip on for 30mm.  It’s pretty tight and is going nowhere especially on a rimfire. Also made a front slip on one color with smaller aperture.
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Post by lablover on 11/15/2019, 7:15 pm

PhotoEscape Aperture Ring Kit - Page 2 Db56e110


Well I like the way this works.  May be placing an order with photoescape.  Also made a front aperture

I used 2 different colors on my printer to get a higher contrast with the ring


Last edited by lablover on 11/15/2019, 7:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by lablover on 11/15/2019, 7:18 pm

PhotoEscape Aperture Ring Kit - Page 2 Abff7910
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PhotoEscape Aperture Ring Kit - Page 2 Empty Shue shades fit?

Post by valbern67 on 11/21/2019, 9:05 am

joy2shoot wrote:Thanks for the write up Jon.  I don’t own a 9000 but I do own several Aimpoint Micros.  So I posted a question to PhotoEscape asking if the Aperature Ring Kit would work with Aimpoint Micro's that have Jon Shue's (aka Black Mass Custom) shades on them.


Any word on whether it will for on Jon Shue's shades?

Val

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Post by joy2shoot on 11/21/2019, 9:27 am

valbern67 wrote:
Any word on whether it will for on Jon Shue's shades?

Val

alien
Short answer is No.  The threads on Jon's shades are close to the threads of a 30 mm Ultradot tube, but they do not match.  A step ring would have to be made.  The male end of the step ring would screw into Jon's shades and the female end would allow a 30 mm Ultradot tube to be screwed in.  (Can I still use male and female vernacular?)  Once the 30mm tube is attached, you could then attach PhotoEscape's aperture rings.  To install PhotoEscape's rubber band ring, there would be one more step.  You would have to first screw the Ultradot's trim ring (that allows for the use of Ultradot's polarizing filter) into the Ultradot 30 mm tube and then screw the rubber band ring into the trim ring.

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