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45 acp case lube question

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SteveT
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Post by bob finger 1/26/2020, 4:27 pm

I'm perplexed.  First, I load on a Square Deal B.  2nd I deprime/wash/dry and prime off the SDB. I load with Bullseye.  Never a problem in the past but I just started lubing my cases before loading and all of a sudden I'm getting maybe one in 20 that act like a very low powder charge.  

My lube is made with six ounces of 99% Isopropyl and maybe 1/2 ounce of lanolin put in a spray bottle and 2 squirts into a gallon plastic bag filled with maybe 200 primed cases.  

What may be wrong with this picture?  If I cannot figure it out its time to go back to no lube on brass.   bob

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Post by James Hensler 1/26/2020, 4:32 pm

Just buy some Hornady one shot and you are done
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Post by Dr.Don 1/26/2020, 5:40 pm

Hi Bob,

I assume since you just started lubing cases that you are using a carbide sizer.  Why did you begin lubing?

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Post by bob finger 1/26/2020, 5:44 pm

Hi Dr. Don:  Fair question.  Because lots of my friends said how much easier it would be on my shoulder if I lubed.  

Not lubing has never been a problem....going back to no lube may well be my best option, but I'm the curious type.  bob

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Post by Dr.Don 1/26/2020, 5:47 pm

Mysterious, but you might try lubing and evaporating before priming and see if that makes a difference.

Your old skeet buddy,
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Post by David R 1/26/2020, 6:28 pm

After wet tumbling, I rinse, and add a water soluble at wash wax. I do not rinse and dry in a cheap dehydrator. They size easily and no squibs.
I tried drying on a towel then air drying. I got 2 squibs. So I bought dehydrator.

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Post by bob finger 1/26/2020, 7:07 pm

David:  Thanks.  I too wash then air dry for days in a hanging mesh bag.  If I'm in a hurry I'll put the washed hulls in the kitchen oven for 2 hours or so at 250 in a wire mesh basket used only for brass. Then into the mesh bag for at least 24 hours or so. My brass is DRY.  Only moisture is from the lube spray, and 99% ISO should flash off within a few minutes which is why I'm perplexed. Maybe it is interaction between the lube and Bullseye, which is why I asked the question.  4 grains of Bullseye acts like maybe 1 or 2 grains in the case.   bob

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Post by Deerspy 1/26/2020, 9:24 pm

I use the Hornady Lub that comes in a tub and put a little on a pad then just turn the end of case on pad as I pick them up place them in loader, I started doing this because the powder thru die was sticking coming out I have M type with extra step to get bullet straight it does Lub the size die at same time works grate!

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Post by CR10X 1/27/2020, 6:12 am

You might be getting some lube in the cast doing it that way, but it would be unusual.  Alternative that I use.  Place your cleaned cases on an old towel (I usually do about 300 or slightly more at a time).  Make sure they are all laying flat.  Lightly spray with case lube from above. Only takes 3 - 4 squirts if its a liquid pump bottle. Grab ends of towel, make a "hammock" and gently rock the cases back and forth.  Use the "hammock" fold to hold the cases until I dump into the Dillon case feeder.  You'll barely be able to tell there's any lube by touch, but your arm will notice when you reload.

CR

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Post by Steve K 1/27/2020, 10:08 am

I was lubing my 9MM cases in order to make the process easier and it did. I used the same mixture of alcohol and Lanolin. However, I placed the cases in a sonic cleaner to get the lube off and then in an air drier. I found it more efficient to use One Shot and cut out the additional steps.

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Post by SteveT 1/27/2020, 10:18 am

It is possible something else is wrong and just happened at the same time. Have you verified you powder metering is good?

It is also possible you getting lube inside the case, causing trouble - weakened primer? powder clumping or weakening? I never liked the idea of spraying lube on cases for fear of getting lube inside. I use an oily cloth slightly dampened with lube and roll a handful around in it before putting them in the hopper to load.

You mostly need lube to re-size cases. If you are depriming and sizing before cleaning, why bother?
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Post by bob finger 1/27/2020, 10:45 am

All reasonable suggestions, thanks !

I tested today.  Shot both lubed and not lubed cases without a single failure.  Difference in lubed cases is I let them flash (dry) overnight before loading.

I can tell little if any difference in the lubed vs unlubed cases running them through my SDB.  I do size the primed case in the first station of the SDB. 

The only issue I've ever had with the SDB is an occasional  minor hull sticking on the powder funnel on the up stroke.  Just a little hitch really, not really a sticking.  That means the funnel is sticking INSIDE the case.

My lube issue appears solved.  I'll leave the lubing of cases to others.  My  conclusion is that the lube I used somehow disrupted the Bullseye powder if I did not wait several hours for the lube to flash off.

Again, thanks for all the input.  Hopefully the comments will help others as well.  

I may try One Shot one of these days, just for kicks.  bob

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Post by David R 1/27/2020, 11:46 am

Use Zip car wash and wax (one product) in your wet tumbler.  Cases will be lubed.  Armor All makes one.   Cases are lubed and dry.

I started doing this because my cases were squeaky clean.   Too clean.  I tried one shot then read about using liquid car wax.  

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Post by CrashClint 2/16/2020, 9:10 pm

I will have to try the Zip Wash/Wax method. I recently switched to a wet tumble using Dawn dish soap and a little Lemishine and the cases are squeaky clean but I am missing the polish I added to the Corn Cob media. The powder funnel on my 550B goes in easy but really drags coming out so I think the Wash/Wax may give me enough lube to smooth out the process.
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Post by james r chapman 2/17/2020, 4:56 am

Just don’t overcook when drying.
It takes away the new shine.
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Post by CrashClint 2/17/2020, 7:26 am

I wet tumbled 15k pieces of brass over the summer, unfortunately my work travel kept me off the range so I have thousands of sparkling clean brass. When I cleaned the brass I used the cradle towel method to get the brass mostly dry then I would spread the brass on a big black mat and let the Carolina sun do the drying.  At 96-98 degrees it didn't take long. I am seriously thinking I may mix up some water and Zip wash and drop 5K of brass in and let it soak for about 15 or so minutes.  Hmm, I wonder how mad my wife will get if I dry the brass in our convection oven? The fan should help with the drying. Shocked
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Post by BE Mike 2/17/2020, 8:47 am

I spray an old t-shirt with either Hornady or Lyman case lube. I pour tumbled brass onto the t-shirt. I bunch up the corners of the t-shirt and massage the brass. Works for me!
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Post by gregbenner 2/17/2020, 10:13 am

James Hensler wrote:Just buy some Hornady one shot and you are done
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Post by CrashClint 3/5/2020, 7:53 pm

David R wrote:After wet tumbling, I rinse, and add a water soluble at wash wax.   I do not rinse and dry in a cheap dehydrator.    They size easily and no squibs.  
I tried drying on a towel then air drying.   I got 2 squibs.   So I bought dehydrator.

David
Thanks for the heads-up on the process David. I wet tumble with Dawn and Lemi-shine, then I did a final rinse using Armor All wash/wax. I used a small space heater to dry my brass and it ran so smooth through my 550. I am thinking about picking up a dehydrator.  What model dehydrator did you get and how long are you running it?
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