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Post by Tim:H11 on Sun Feb 23, 2020 5:50 pm

I own a Ruger MKII Target pistol. Some time ago, maybe a year or more, I changed out the factory original adjustable rear sight to a Volquartsen Bomar looking rear sight. It provided a much better sight picture but it had an issue. The portion of the rear sight that moves (hinges) up and down was loose within the rest of the body of the rear sight. There was some left and right play. So today with not much going on I shimmed it hoping this will eliminate any possible accuracy issues due to the movement - if there were any to begin with. I'm not sure it was even a problem to start with but it certainly can't be now. 

The other thing I did was work on the trigger some. Two different things I did.. well three actually. I had an older Volquartsen or possibly Clark trigger in there. I was the one that installed it a while back. There was no trigger job done, just changing out the trigger it's self for one with an over travel screw. It's wider than the stock trigger and I wanted to go back to the narrow factory trigger. So I switched it back out. But I still wanted an over travel screw. No problem! I have tools!

So next I took the factory trigger, locked it up in the bench vise, and I drilled a hole through it. Then I had the matching diameter tap and threaded the hole. I needed a screw though and after this much work I realized I did not have one. Back to the parts bin. I found a 1911 trigger that came off an old Springfield I'm guessing but not sure. I robbed it of it's over travel screw. Threads did not match but the screw was looking like it'd be a good candidate to rethread it. It was a shot in the dark but I did rethread it and it fit in the hole I made in the trigger. A little loose but lock tight snugged it up good. It was too long so I had to shorten it and in the end I had a fitted over travel strew in a trigger I like the width of. 

Last couple of things I did was work on the pull. It was a little heavy, not bad, but terribly snappy. I took the sear out and smoothed it's face some. Popped it back in and it felt great but it was clicking just under two pounds. Yikes! No longer legal for bullseye. So I thought: a heavier trigger spring would up the overall poundage in the trigger. I had no donor springs that fit. So I shimmed it! I build up the floor of the cavity the spring sets in so the spring would be compressed more causing it to be a little heavier. It worked. I have it clicking just over two pounds. It feels like a roll trigger sort of. And a little long for my liking but it's totally usable. Smooth and clean for the most part. I would like to ultimately (eventually) find a heavier trigger spring and just replace it instead of my shimming approach. But this will do for now. 

So now my Ruger MKII Target is Bullseye ready when before I saw it only as a plinker. I'm not sure how accurate it is. I own a Hammerli Exesse and a Nelson so I don't really need the Ruger for Bullseye but I learned how to shoot and operate a pistol with my grandfather a long time ago as a young boy with his Ruger MKII Target. I own one out of sentimental reasons. 

Something to do on a day when I didn't have much going on.
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Post by Ed Hall on Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:15 am

Interesting!  My Mark II trigger had an over-travel screw from the factory, but it was hidden.  It was just above the curve, in the flat rear part that's just within the frame.  You have to pull the trigger most of the way out to adjust it.  I drilled a matching hole in the upper part and added a take-up adjustment.  I also radiused the hammer so it would stop dragging on the sear after the break.  You may want to check for this last condition, especially if the sear and hammer are original.


Last edited by Ed Hall on Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:20 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : correction of a tiny typing error. . .)

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Post by Tim:H11 on Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:23 am

Ed Hall wrote:Interesting!  My Mark II trigger had an over-travel screw from the factory, but it was hidden.  It was just above the curve, in the flat rear part that's just within the frame.  You have to pull the trigger most of the way out to adjust it.  I drilled a matching hole in the upper part and added a take-up adjustment.  I also radiused the hammer so it would stop dragging on the sear after the break.  You may want to check for this last condition, especially if the sear and hammer are original.

Thanks! The hammer and sear are factory as much as I can tell. If it’s rubbing, Will it ruin any sear work I’ve already done?
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Post by willnewton on Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:33 am

Make boredom a part of your shot process!

https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/hide-and-seek/201407/the-surprising-benefits-boredom
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Post by Ed Hall on Mon Feb 24, 2020 6:34 pm

Tim:H11 wrote:Thanks! The hammer and sear are factory as much as I can tell. If it’s rubbing, Will it ruin any sear work I’ve already done?
That was my concern, since the original sear has no secondary angle like a 1911.  The actual surface where the hammer hook rides isn't being touched, but the very edge of that surface might be.  And, the very edge is the break point.  That break point needs to be as square with the hook(s) as possible, so that the break is as clean as possible across the entire region.  Imagine, in the extreme, that the wear causes one end of the edge to clear before the other.  The other possible issue is that (I believe) the factory sear is only surface hardened.  I don't know how deep "surface" actually means (or, if I'm actually correct, for that matter).

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Post by 285wannab on Thu Mar 05, 2020 2:17 pm

A couple of things I did to my Ruger was to JB Weld the hammer bushing to the hammer and let it dry installed.  No play after that.  I also turn down the radius on the bushing before I JB Weld it to the hammer.  What that causes is the hammer hook engages the sear better.  
I will add a couple more tips.  I am interested in hearing any other tricks/tips.....

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Post by mhayford45 on Mon Mar 16, 2020 5:44 pm

I cut a small notch in the sear as close to the center of the sear up against the wall for the sear spring to ride in, It feels more consistent than letting it move around.

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