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Break Free CLP and other Gun Cleaners

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Post by mikemyers on 10/14/2020, 8:20 pm

First topic message reminder :

I think when I was born, someone must have given me a bottle of Hoppe's.  I've been using it to clean guns, as long as I've been cleaning.  Now there are other choices.

I wanted to ask about Break Free CLP.  If it works as described, you spray it on parts, and leave them wet overnight.  When you continue cleaning, dirt and debris are lifted off the surface and can easily wiped away.  Several people have suggested I use it, and looking on the web, it gets very good review.

I live in a small apartment - I would prefer not to use something with a 'nasty' smell, especially something toxic.  With Hoppe's, I decided long ago that I was better off cleaning parts outdoors.

For those of you who work on your guns a lot, what do you recommend?  Is Break Free as good as its reputation?  Is it a replacement for Hoppe's, or do you still use Hoppe's on barrel bores?


One of the many web sites I looked over:
https://guncleaninghq.com/best-gun-cleaning-solvent/
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Post by mikemyers on 10/16/2020, 11:44 pm

Sa-tevp wrote:

It is the front and back covers for troubleshooting wrong (Wright) engines.
Aha, so that explains why only the engine on the wright side of the plane is being worked on, not the left side.     :-)
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Post by SingleActionAndrew on 10/17/2020, 12:06 am

mikemyers wrote:After watching the video I linked to in my previous response here, I wonder if all these new fancy lubricants are just a money making scheme for things we don't need.  If you watch the (rather long) video, he's essentially telling us that the basic oils we've used forever are still as good as it gets.  If something is good enough for the factory, it should be good enough for us.  :-)

But if things were good enough from the factory sir then why do we accurize our pistols and not use factory ammo? Very Happy

The M Pro 7 stuff is great, synthetic, affordable, and fit for the indoor use you mentioned. I really like the TW25b mentioned for rails. With M Pro 7 and the Mil-comm "system" (which are probably not worth the extra $$ other than tw25b over M Pro 7) you are cleaning separately from lubricating. The M Pro 7 copper remover is supposed to be non-corrosive

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Post by Outthere on 10/17/2020, 6:00 am

Ed's Red.
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Post by chopper on 10/17/2020, 11:17 am

Outthere wrote:Ed's Red.
 Me too, also Marvels Mystery Oil in some situations.
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Post by mikemyers on 10/17/2020, 5:31 pm

I think I'm good at asking questions which don't have a single accepted answer.  So be it.

If anyone other than me has the patience to watch the entire video on how to maintain a S&W revolver, you'll learn that the way lubrication is done at the factory is to get just enough lube where it counts, and wipe off any excess.  If there is any excess lube anywhere, it will gather "stuff" and become abrasive.  In the video the fellow is very careful to never use any more than the bare minimum of lube.

What I think I've learned about this is that too little lube is very bad, adequate lube is good, and excess lube is good as long as you continue to lubricate on as often as necessary.  I remember reading how 1911's run best when they are "wet".  Maybe that's best for guns used in competition, rather than occasionally.  

I ended up thinking that excess lube, and frequent cleaning, was a very good idea.

I'm not a gunsmith, not a machinist, and in no way an expert in any of this.  I take what seem to be good ideas, and if they make sense to me, I follow them.  

Back to Bullseye - if I like a gun, and I want to get better with it, I tend to take it to the range four or five times a week, and dry fire it every day.  For live fire, I guess one range session is about 100 rounds - I don't think I benefit much from shooting after I start to feel tired.  

From what I've read up above, I guess there are lots of excellent choices for lubrication.  I sort of want to ask anyway how often other shooters clean and lubricate their guns, but I figure the best answer would be to do so every time you go shooting.



I mentioned my S&W Model 28 earlier - it started to feel "stiff" and "dry" when I got to the range.  After using the Remington Gun Oil that I had with me on what seemed all the appropriate place, the gun now feels better than it has ever felt in all the years I've owned it.  The president of my gun club today thought that someone must have just gone through it.  I never did get to tell him what I actually had done.  He told me everything was "tight", in a good way.  

Back to this thread - I guess I'll find a collection of which lubricants I'll use, and 99% of the time this will be for one of the following:  1911, Nelson, High Standard, and Smith & Wesson.

(I watched a video on how to lubricate a Pardini - lots of specialized advice.  If I ever buy one, I guess I need to learn a lot of new things!)
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