Question for Pardini owners

I am wondering if the people who say their SP’s jam with a certain ammo or stovepipe with another have ever cleaned the 13 o-rings in the bolt. I bet the farm the true answer would be “ I’ve never cleaned or taken them out” and that’s why they have had problems after shooting 5-10k rounds

Jim, I have not cleaned my o-rings.  But I'm not having a problem either.  Good suggestion.

I'll have to add this to my maintenance list...
Just creeping up on 1,000 rounds on mine.
Thanks

I have had mine 7 years, Couple cases shot through it a year or so.  No problems yet.  

Regards, 
Crankster

There's 13 orings in the bolt lol. Sounds like an "interesting" design.

zanemoseley wrote:There's 13 orings in the bolt lol. Sounds like an "interesting" design.

Yep! Lol they are supposed to be black and over time and solvents they turn clear. They also reduce in thickness  and that’s what causes the problems

CrankyThunder wrote:I have had mine 7 years, Couple cases shot through it a year or so.  No problems yet.  

Regards, 
Crankster

Does your Pistol have this type of bolt or does it use the rubber damper

If I understand there is a damper AND rings on bolt part itself. I cannot imagine just how the solvents would get back there though, unless you are very solvent happy ))

I was told to change the SP o-rings every 10-15K rounds and the HP o-rings every 5-10K rounds. Depending on usage, they should be disassembled and cleaned about every two months. Also depending on usage, every two months the frame should be soaked in mineral spirits for 30 min., followed by relubing the sear.

jjessip wrote:I was told to change the SP o-rings every 10-15K rounds and the HP o-rings every 5-10K rounds. Depending on usage, they should be disassembled and cleaned about every two months. Also depending on usage, every two months the frame should be soaked in mineral spirits for 30 min., followed by relubing the sear.

Is this what the Pardini people say?

Yes, that was suggested to me by Pardini USA, according to my notes. The interval for changing HP o-rings may vary somewhat depending on the load you are using. Disassembly is not that difficult -- I use a C-clamp to depress the protrusion on the end of the bolt, which makes it easier to drive out the cross-pin. SP and HP o-rings use the same part number.

"[size=16]Is this what the Pardini people say?"[/size]

Vladimir of Pardini very kindly spent 20 minutes on the phone with me recently going through the whole strip/clean/check/replace process. Yes, what Jim Hensler states is essentially correct. 

There are several other threads on this subject and one of them points us to a source of compatible O-rings (they are tiny) for very modest cost. Especially on the 32ACP, they need replacing regularly.

The most important STRONG message I got from Vlad is that I use too much oil/solvent/whatever and it is bad for the gun. I will now stop using Hoppes #9 to help remove combustion debris. Only 1 drop of (their recommended hi-tech) oil on the slide after cleaning, applied with a finger or Q tip. 

There is a video online which describes application of a tiny amount of special grease on the sear/hammer.

Jim has his own technique for thoroughly cleaning all of the accumulated debris out of the frame - but I am sworn to secrecy! It definitely works though.

This was the o-rings from my HP when I had all the problems going from 60 to 85 grain XTP Bullets. The black stuff on the bench was the coating from the rings. They when stacked was noticeably shorter than the new rings. Think of the O-Rings as a timing mechanism and when the stack got shorter it threw the timing off

So the Pardini trusts us to do this procedure, but to simply put rail on GT we have to send the whole slide in :\

Just buy a SW M41.

Tripscape wrote:So the Pardini trusts us to do this procedure, but to simply put rail on GT we have to send the whole slide in :\

This is as easy to do as it comes.

TonyH wrote:Just buy a SW M41.

Already have one and I really like it.
But, the Pardini increased my average 20 points.

Tripscape wrote:So the Pardini trusts us to do this procedure, but to simply put rail on GT we have to send the whole slide in :\

Still annoyed by that. I want a rail, but UPS wants over a 100$ to ship. The rail is overpriced as it is.

Jwhelan939 wrote:

Tripscape wrote:So the Pardini trusts us to do this procedure, but to simply put rail on GT we have to send the whole slide in :\

Still annoyed by that. I want a rail, but UPS wants over a 100$ to ship. The rail is overpriced as it is.

Why can't you just ship a slide alone via USPS? It's not a regulated item.

Tripscape wrote:

Jwhelan939 wrote:

Tripscape wrote:So the Pardini trusts us to do this procedure, but to simply put rail on GT we have to send the whole slide in :\

Still annoyed by that. I want a rail, but UPS wants over a 100$ to ship. The rail is overpriced as it is.

Why can't you just ship a slide alone via USPS? It's not a regulated item.

Good question. I'll have to go back and see if I can find the email to see if they specified just the slide. I also asked about the upgraded trigger at some point. Maybe I am crossing responses in my memory. You would think they would only need the slide. Still ridiculous that they won't sell just the part, but I will double check.

Jack,

As I mentioned in another thread. FFL's are permitted to use USPS. A handgun will easily fit into a Medium Flat Rate carton. Find a friendly FFL - offer to flip them a few bucks for the "service" - pack the gun, unsealed, buy a click-n-ship label with the FFL named as the shipper. To be ultra-safe, have the FFL put a copy of their Cert in the box, seal it and let the mail man pick it up from the FFL.

Pardini are permitted to ship it directly back to you. They use UPS/FEDEX ground which is slightly more expensive, but not outrageous.

The slide alone can go in the normal USPS.

radjag wrote:Jack,

As I mentioned in another thread. FFL's are permitted to use USPS. A handgun will easily fit into a Medium Flat Rate carton. Find a friendly FFL - offer to flip them a few bucks for the "service" - pack the gun, unsealed, buy a click-n-ship label with the FFL named as the shipper. To be ultra-safe, have the FFL put a copy of their Cert in the box, seal it and let the mail man pick it up from the FFL.

Pardini are permitted to ship it directly back to you. They use UPS/FEDEX ground which is slightly more expensive, but not outrageous.

The slide alone can go in the normal USPS.

There is also a form that the ffls need to fill out to ship a gun...dont for get that...

Look, I get it, if the gun is under warranty, then they want to make sure YOU don't mess anything up with self installation. However, if it's out of warrany, then I can't see how sending gun/slide for rail or trigger is not a shakedown

I haven't touched the orings in my .22 or .32 with 15k through the .22 and maybe 3k through the .32. The only issues I have are with Aquila and they are rare. Seems under powered. Wolf, Eley, CCI, SK, Geco all run fine.

I hope no one has problems. The reason I started this post was to think that it might not be the ammo when people do have some hiccups.