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1911 Trigger shoes need TLC up-date

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1911 Trigger shoes need TLC up-date Empty 1911 Trigger shoes need TLC up-date

Post by Froneck 3/29/2021, 4:00 pm

I screwed up errrrr I mean my computer screwed-up Rolling Eyes  Price was each! Tripscape might just take one! So what I'll do is he has first choice of what is listed but if others order while he's making up his mind I'll sell a few that are in excellent dimension condition, completed except ends need rounding and shoe buffed. I have quite a few made for those requesting modifications that I have to make a ring that's cut into 4 shoes. Have the remainder of the 4 shoes I'll sell at the same $20 +$4.50 shipping price so you can custome make your own shoe!

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Post by Tripscape 3/29/2021, 4:17 pm

Frank, I thought I will save me some money and pass. My problem is that even with short trigger I don't have enough grip area to my liking, fingers don't reach right, so I want to make mine even shorter. Unfortunately shoes make triggers longer. I need to figure out a custom thin wide attachment that would screw to the front only after the trigger is installed. So not a shoe, but a ski ))) pardon the doodle on the phone.  1911 Trigger shoes need TLC up-date Screen15

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Post by rich.tullo 3/29/2021, 5:01 pm

Jerry Keefer did something like that there is a pic on the internet
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Post by Froneck 3/29/2021, 5:34 pm

I have done it, make a shoe so short that the trigger was almost completely in the frame when the hammer dropped. First I need the total length of the trigger and shoe. The length the trigger protrudes out of the frame when pulled to the stop If I were to make one similar to the one sketched the threads would have to be very short and you would probably have holes in the face and feel them when pulling the trigger. The one thing that makes my shoes work so well is the very smooth surface. If the trigger is of sufficient length that set screw can be put into the trigger I can slot the trigger and make the shoe reverse so that the shoe fits inside the trigger not on the outside. What I would need is a trigger that was inserted into the frame, pulled to the point the hammer falls, adjust the stop screw so the trigger can be held in that location while taking a needle like sharp scribe and scratch a line if the frame on the trigger. Also if the trigger is so short that the slot will cut into the bow attachment I then use 2 pins into the trigger. Not cheap, would have to get $125 plus $4.50 shipping and the trigger.

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Post by Tripscape 3/29/2021, 8:19 pm

Frank, that makes sense 100%. I applaud your engineering! Will determine my needs soon. I have some new guns coming in and some need to be sold, so will see how they handle. Some are more undercut on the beaver tail, will see how the trigger reaches. I will email you with particulars once I decide the needs. No doubt you make them best!

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Post by rich.tullo 3/30/2021, 9:46 pm

Froneck wrote:I screwed up errrrr I mean my computer screwed-up Rolling Eyes  Price was each! Tripscape might just take one! So what I'll do is he has first choice of what is listed but if others order while he's making up his mind I'll sell a few that are in excellent dimension condition, completed except ends need rounding and shoe buffed. I have quite a few made for those requesting modifications that I have to make a ring that's cut into 4 shoes. Have the remainder of the 4 shoes I'll sell at the same $20 +$4.50 shipping price so you can custome make your own shoe!
Completed except ends need rounding and shoe buffed. 


Rounded? Do you mean the top and bottom edge or ?
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Post by rich.tullo 3/30/2021, 9:52 pm

There is a pic of the Keefer trigger on this page

https://www.google.com/search?q=jerry+keefer+1911&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiflY-5wtnvAhV6jOAKHSZXD48Q2-cCegQIABAA&oq=jerry+keefer+1911&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzIECAAQGDoECCMQJ1C9rwNYw8MDYOPEA2gAcAB4AIABUogBywaSAQIxMZgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&sclient=img&ei=CuNjYJ_oMfqYggemrr34CA&bih=717&biw=1309#imgrc=qeFnjFZM-45irM
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Post by Froneck 3/31/2021, 10:11 am

rich;
 Yes a ring is cut into 4 shoes, therefore the ends are Pie shaped (tapering toward the middle.) I then cut them to .915" top to bottom so the ends are flat. On some I use a corner rounding end mill but they are made to round a square corner and get tricky to use but at best it's not correct so I finish by filing the ends to fit into the trigger guard. So shoes will have grove for trigger, drilled and taped for the set screws and set screws inserted. Top and bottom milled equal distance from the center total being .915", front finger radius cut as well as the larger finger side radius and edge removal radius opposite the finger side! Simply put you will get a complete shoe that needs the top and bottom radius so that the shoe will allow the trigger to release the sear and not being stopped by the shoe hitting the frame. Then require buffing if you want the same shinny surface. Finger surface as received will be smoooth without any tool marks.

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Post by PhotoEscape 3/31/2021, 3:18 pm

Sending PM.
AP
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