In search of a metalworker

My VC Scorpion is too light. I experimented with a barrel weight and it is definitely an improvement.
The problem is, the gun has been designed for a single under-the-barrel attachment, either a rail or a weight. I want both. Plus I want the barrel weight as forward as possible.
Currently, the barrel weight is held by a zip tie :


A solution would be to assemble the weight to the rail. I have no tools and no skills so I tried glue and it failed.

The rail is probably aluminum, the barrel weight is steel.





Would a member of this forum with tools and skills be willing to have this done? Of course, I would pay for the service.

PM Sent
Jon

Heck Jon. You beat me to it.

Len, what in tarnation is that contraption?

I would try glue again. LockTite Black Max should do the trick. Be sure to thoroughly degrease the surfaces first.

Jon Eulette wrote:Len, what in tarnation is that contraption?

Human hamster wheel?

Get a spare scope ring and clamp down on a lead weight.  Attach to the accessory rail.   You might have to make a 1" round mold to melt the lead into.

john bickar wrote:

Jon Eulette wrote:Len, what in tarnation is that contraption?

Human hamster wheel?

I believe those are lobster / crab traps.

Jim

Well, the OP asked for a Metal Worker 

Yep, crab pots

LenV wrote:Well, the OP asked for a Metal Worker 

Yep, crab pots

I don't think the ex will fit


Or Len, put a finer mesh net on it and carry your brass home.

Here is what I was thinking about :

Feasible? Anyone?

Kp321 wrote:I would try glue again. LockTite Black Max should do the trick. Be sure to thoroughly degrease the surfaces first.

Glue won't work since there is a tiny space between the weight and the barrel. When I hold the pistol but let it rest on the bench between shots in slow fire it will play and ultimately break the assembly in the weak spot.

What if the rail and the barrel weight were made as one unit from steel or brass?

It could be even better, but for perfect fitting the gun would have to be shipped and I'd rather not.
The parts I have have the right curvature and screw holes in the right places.

If I understand correctly, Can you make a thick shim like spacer between the rail and gun.  Extend it forward to hold additional weight

TomH_pa wrote:What if the rail and the barrel weight were made as one unit from steel or brass?

Would be best method!
Jon

You need to react the load (inertial loads from firing) in all 6 axes.  I say 6 axes because while the three are obvious, the rotations around them are often forgotten.  You would need 2 fasteners minimum, but even that may not be enough.  I would suggest that you use at least two #6 screws from the weight to the pic rail.

Wobbley wrote: I would suggest that you use at least two #6 screws from the weight to the pic rail.

I don't see how it would be possible without drilling all the way across the weight, and that's like 2 inches of steel.

Jack H wrote:If I understand correctly, Can you make a thick shim like spacer between the rail and gun.  Extend it forward to hold additional weight

That's a good idea, but this shim would have to be at the same time thick and U shaped like a gutter with the correct curvature.

It’s pretty simple to machine the radius. Just need to know diameter of the barrel. Screw hole locations pretty easy to measure, could even be slotted if need be. Baby Stuff!
Jon

What is the rail used for in this case?

I suggested somewhere before to mount a scope ring on an underrail.  Then mount whatever you want in the ring.  Even a wood dowel 1" diameter and more rings up front. 

There is always lead wire under tape

Jambat wrote:

Wobbley wrote: I would suggest that you use at least two #6 screws from the weight to the pic rail.

I don't see how it would be possible without drilling all the way across the weight, and that's like 2 inches of steel.

Any good machinist can do that.  It does take a rigid machine like a milling machine, but it’s done very often.

Lightfoot wrote:Get a spare scope ring and clamp down on a lead weight.  Attach to the accessory rail.   You might have to make a 1" round mold to melt the lead into.

You're reading my mind. Drill a 1" hole in a piece hardwood for mold. Powder coat the lead with Pro-Tec powder paint. The powder paint is sold where fishing tackle supplies are sold.

I don't have a drill, I don't have a furnace.
In terms of available tools, I have the 17-piece Ikea tool set and a Leatherman multitool.

A member offered to machine something, either a rail+weight combination from a solid piece of metal or a shim on which I would attach the rail and weight.