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1911 trigger take-up?

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1911 trigger take-up? Empty 1911 trigger take-up?

Post by Hammbone 5/18/2021, 12:44 pm

I've made an observation on my SA RO trigger pull.  See image below.
(1) Trigger at resting position.
(2) Trigger take up upon touching it with your finger with minimal pressure ~.030-.040" of take-up (roughly).
(3) As pressure increases, the trigger moves another ~.005-.010".  Total trigger pull is 3.5lb, so this takes place at about 2lbs (again, roughly).

What is causing that last tiny amount of movement before it hits the "wall"?  How do I get rid of it? Do I just live it with?

(Side note: I did my own trigger job. Though not a trained gunsmith, I am very mechanically inclined. I bought the jig and stones from Bronells. I was very concervative and did not remove much of the hooks. I'm right at .020", maybe .021" - do I need to remove more here? Is it something else?)
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Post by DA/SA 5/18/2021, 1:11 pm

Try new good quality hammer and sear pins from someone like EGW. Your pins may be slightly under size.

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Post by Jon Eulette 5/18/2021, 1:19 pm

Sounds like creep if inconsistent or roll if consistent. If you want crisp your sear to hammer engagement needs cleaned up. Hook length probably not a contributor.
Jon Eulette
Jon Eulette

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Post by fc60 5/18/2021, 2:47 pm


It is possible that the sear and hammer are seating on one leg.

If you remove the thumb safety, watch the sear when you apply pressure to the trigger.

If resting on one leg, the sear will appear to flex before releasing.

Clean and cold blue the tip of the sear. Dry snap a few times, disassemble, and examine the sear tip for contact on both sides.



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Post by Froneck 5/18/2021, 3:43 pm

Take-up I wouldn't concern myself with, the amount of pressure needed is almost none. But there is quite a few issues that will cause what you have after take-up. One is the pins in the hammer and more so the sear. If they are loose and move you will feel it in the trigger, Look very closely at the pins as you pull the trigger and see if you notice any movement on both sides of the frame. Large hole in the hammer and especially the sear is another issue. Remove them and check pin fit. Also look at the hammer as the trigger is pulled to see if there is any movement, it will not be much so try to see any movement in the hammer as the trigger is pulled. Take the slide off and see if that changes anything, disconnector can be rubbing in the notch especially if the disconnector hole is large.Then there is as described one side of the sear is off the hammer hooks and other side still holding the hammer. For issues like the hammer is being held by one side of the sear. I don't use cold blue as suggested, magic marker works for me. Another issue is the sear pivots, it don't pull straight off the hooks and why some use the sear rounding jig to round the sear when stoning it. And of course there is a combination of the above whereby very small errors add-up. Trigger work seem to be simple, many sell the handy dandy jig to cure all the problems but without the skill needed will usually make matters worse. Sometimes it's  created by a poorly made jig! Quite a few Youtube videos show how to do a trigger job, I've seen a few and had to laugh, it's more like what not to do!
 If your sick you go to your doctor, if your gun is sick and you don't have the skills take it to a gun doctor AKA gunsmith but before you do get references, I've known a few that thought their best tool was the hammer!


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