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.45 questions

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Post by impalanut 9/12/2021, 10:08 pm

I have a .45 wadgun originally built by Ross Carter in 2008. The man who ordered it passed away and I bought it from the estate, but got no information. I found some of the owners old posts on line. Les Baer frame, STI slide, Kart barrel. One of the loads he listed was 200gr SWC with 3.8 gr bullseye. He later switched to 185 gr swc as it worked better. He posted a pic of the ransom rest target from the builder which showed a dime size hole for 5 rounds at 25 y.

Two questions.
It has a clark customs full length mount and the gun came with a red dot that I changed to my aimpoint h1. The dot seems to loosen after each 10 round string. Is this because the mount is not quite correct, or is this something that happens frequently on slide mounted .45s

The more important question. Just for reference. I have about 10k rounds through my Matchguns .22 This week I shot all .22. 820,851,839. I have about 1500 rounds through this .45 and shot it today in a match for the first time. shot 648, 659. I am using ASYM ammo rated for 775 fps, power factor 148, 185 gr JHP
The problem is that if I hold the gun firmly enough for it to cycle correctly, I have trouble with trigger control and many shots low left, even off the target (right handed). If I loosen up to a more comfortable grip and control the trigger correctly (shots stay in the black) the gun doesn't seem to cycle correctly and fails to go into battery, or takes a long time to get into battery with a decided two step feel with a big hesitation before going into battery. From what I am reading this may indicate the wrong recoil spring?

Any help appreciated.

impalanut

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Post by Jon Eulette 9/12/2021, 10:25 pm

It could be several things. 185s don't usually feed as good as 200s. Throating the feed ramps properly usually helps. Magazine feeding also could be an issue. Wrong barrel link length or fitting can jack up the timing of how slide/barrel goes into battery. Too much extractor tension will mess things up. Recoil spring could but I would guess not.
H1 mounts don't like all rails and can come loose. Not just a 45 issue. I recommend have a smith check it out.
Jon
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Post by impalanut 9/12/2021, 10:41 pm

recommendation for the H1 mount?

impalanut

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Post by chiz1180 9/12/2021, 11:18 pm

Kodiak mount is a typical upgrade for an H1, KC sells them.

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Post by Jon Eulette 9/12/2021, 11:29 pm

I’ve had issues with the Kodiak not liking some rail widths.
What width is your rail?
Jon
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Post by chiz1180 9/13/2021, 4:43 am

Jon Eulette wrote:I’ve had issues with the Kodiak not liking some rail widths.
What width is your rail?
Jon
OP mentions "Clark mount" in the first post. Kodiak slides right on one. Slot width may need to be widened a touch, but larger screw provides more clamping force.

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Post by Jon Eulette 9/13/2021, 5:02 am

The Kodiak does not tighten properly on all rails! It will rock and requires extra tightening of the cross bolt screw. But it’s still not right/correct. Rails vary in width and can be ok or not. Kodiak also uses larger diameter bolt that will not fit all rails.
Jon
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Post by kc.crawford.7 9/13/2021, 6:23 am

If you're using a Kodiak mount the cross slot needs to opened up and average of .045-.050.  Width of .195 and a depth of .110-.115 for the Kodiak mount to sit properly.
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Post by chiz1180 9/13/2021, 7:04 am

Jon Eulette wrote:The Kodiak does not tighten properly on all rails! It will rock and requires extra tightening of the cross bolt screw. But it’s still not right/correct. Rails vary in width and can be ok or not. Kodiak also uses larger diameter bolt that will not fit all rails.
Jon
What other option would you propose?

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