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Dry-firing a 22 LR handgun

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CrankyThunder
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Post by handcycle Mon Oct 04, 2021 6:28 pm

How to dry fire a S&W Model 41 correctly? Does everyone uses the yellow drywall plastic plugs or is there finally a solution out there? Question 
I had tried different snap-caps plus someone even trying to 3-D printed some for me to try but none satisfactory...
At this point I will say someone out there needs to invent a new mouse-trap so we, the 22 semi-auto shooters out there could finally & safely practice dry fire our guns for our trigger control... Exclamation
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Post by Ed Hall Mon Oct 04, 2021 6:53 pm

Actually, there are a couple of other options than chamber plug snap caps, that I have seen.  One was called a "trash can snap cap,' but I can't find the link.  The second was an o-ring.  Basically, instead of cushioning the firing pin, the method cushions the hammer fall.

The trash can snap cap takes a small "U" shaped section from the lip of a plastic trash can and wedges it into the slide of the M41, such that it straddles the firing pin.  When the hammer falls it contacts the plastic insert instead of the firing pin.  As long as the fit is snug, you can cycle the slide all day and it will stay in place.

The second is to choose an o-ring that will fit in the slide in the same manner as the trash can snap cap from above.  The o-ring sits around the firing pin and cushions the hammer fall.

You do have to remember to remove these before a match, though.

Edit: Found it!  Trash Can Snap Cap

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Post by xman Mon Oct 04, 2021 9:33 pm

I have also seen a piece of one of those magnetic business cards cut to shaped to fit and stick over the chamber area. It will stick to the steel and the firing pin will strike the other side. You will have to cut an area for the extractor to fit so that the bolt will close and the extractor not pull on the magnetic piece. It may involve a little trial and error.
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Post by Allgoodhits Mon Oct 04, 2021 9:37 pm

Not sure about a 41, but this works for me with my .22LR revolvers and semi-autos. 
Likely not ideal, but I use spent brass which was fired from the gun. This way it fits the chamber, and they are plentiful, and cheap. I change them often. I guess if you have to pull the bolt back so far that it ejects the brass before it is cocked, this would not be a good application.
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Post by TonyH Mon Oct 04, 2021 10:12 pm

I 3D printed this to fit in the cavity behind the firing pin on a M41 slide….dry fire to your hearts content, simply remove for live fire.Dry-firing a 22 LR handgun 378cfa10
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Post by L Valdez Mon Oct 04, 2021 10:15 pm

I have used a cut piece of magnetic business card for decades. No special cuts, just cut a piece that fits on the breach face, then keep it away from the extractor. It lasts for months. I usually loose them in my box at a match before they wear out.


Last edited by L Valdez on Mon Oct 04, 2021 10:18 pm; edited 2 times in total

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Post by L Valdez Mon Oct 04, 2021 10:16 pm

Place the magnetic side on the breach, with the plastic side towards the slide face. That way when you cock the pistol for each shot, the magnetic card stays in place.

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Post by handcycle Mon Oct 04, 2021 11:56 pm

Thanks for all your inputs.
I vote for the trash can snap cap and the 3-D printed infill.I think both will work Wink) Smile
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Post by CrankyThunder Tue Oct 05, 2021 7:16 am

HEy hand cycle:

there are two ways that I dry fire the model 41.  

First way is to take a foam ear plug.  Open up the action of the Model 41, turn it upside down, and place it between where the hammer hits the firing pin.  

Simple...........Easy...........Cheap.


Second way is to take a normal CMP empty chamber indicator and whittle it down so that it gets inserted into the barrel with the flag hanging out to the right.  Whittle it down so that the bolt closes enough such that the hammer will drop.  ECI keeps bolt open enough so firing pin does not hit chamber.  

Lastly, if you are on the competition line and want to do a couple dry fires during your prep period or before you start your slow fire, go ahead and do a couple of dry fires.  Firing pins are cheap for the model 41 (you should have a couple in your box already) and any damage to the chamber can be easily ironed out with a chamber ironing tool.  

Regards, 
Crankster
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Post by jjbhonn Mon Oct 11, 2021 7:54 pm

Cranky, have you observed any debris from the deteriorating foam falling into the hammer mechanism, which may cause problems down the road?

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Post by Axehandle Mon Oct 11, 2021 9:03 pm

Been shooting M41s since the first I was issued in 1978.  Bought a personal M41 in 1984.  The ones in my hands have been dry fired nonstop.  Even had the disconnector disabled so they could be dry fired without a magazine.  Never broke a firing pin.  Never burred a chamber.  Never told by a coach or a NGMTU gunsmith to not dry fire them.

High Standards are NOT the same... Do NOT dry fire them without some sort of protection in place.   I'm thinking most euro guns say the same.

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Post by GME Tue Oct 12, 2021 12:16 am

I made the "trash can snap cap" a couple of days ago.  I didn't have the right trash can, so unsurprisingly, it didn't fit.  It was too wide to fit in the slot.  I got a trusty pair of pliers and squeezed the plastic bit to make it narrower.  That did the trick.  For grins, I put the trash can device in the back and loaded up a Tipton hard plastic snap cap in the chamber.  After firing, there wasn't so much of a light mark on the Tipton.  When I use Tipton caps normally, the firing pin makes pretty deep cut in plastic.  After a few hits, the rim breaks loose.  

I really like this solution.  It's quick, easy, and most important, it works.  Now, I need to figure out how to temporarily disable the connector so I can shoot without the mag in the gun.

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Post by handcycle Tue Oct 12, 2021 1:03 am

GME wrote:I made the "trash can snap cap" a couple of days ago.  I didn't have the right trash can, so unsurprisingly, it didn't fit.  It was too wide to fit in the slot.  I got a trusty pair of pliers and squeezed the plastic bit to make it narrower.  That did the trick.  For grins, I put the trash can device in the back and loaded up a Tipton hard plastic snap cap in the chamber.  After firing, there wasn't so much of a light mark on the Tipton.  When I use Tipton caps normally, the firing pin makes pretty deep cut in plastic.  After a few hits, the rim breaks loose.  

I really like this solution.  It's quick, easy, and most important, it works.  Now, I need to figure out how to temporarily disable the connector so I can shoot without the mag in the gun.
As far as I understand that you don't need to put anything in the chamber when you have the trash can "snap cap" in place. It blocks the hammer strike already. Just my observation Wink) Smile
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Post by Ed Hall Tue Oct 12, 2021 11:24 am

handcycle wrote:As far as I understand that you don't need to put anything in the chamber when you have the trash can "snap cap" in place. It blocks the hammer strike already. Just my observation Wink) Smile
I think he means the magazine disconnect.

If you have a spare magazine, you can disassemble it and use only the tube in the gun.  That will allow you to cycle the slide without it locking.

FYI, the current rules state:
NRA Rulebook 2020 wrote:Note: For purposes of competition, magazine disconnects and load-
ed chamber indicators are not considered operational safeties as
defined in Rule 3.1.
So, if you like, you can disable the disconnect.

I do suggest you verify the rule rather than just taking my word for it.

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Post by GME Tue Oct 12, 2021 1:10 pm

handcycle wrote:

As far as I understand that you don't need to put anything in the chamber when you have the trash can "snap cap" in place. It blocks the hammer strike already. Just my observation Wink) Smile

You are correct in your understanding.  I just wanted to test whether/how well the trash can thingy worked.  The Tipton snap cap was left unblemished after firing, so the trash can piece passed the test.   I don't use the Tipton for regular dry fire.

Thanks for the information, Ed.  You got me thinking.  

After scrutinizing the mags,  I found that I could insert a piece of toothpick in the mag, near the top, where there is a punched flare on the right side.  I insert the toothpick from left to right, and cut/break it off flush on both sides.  The toothpick piece holds the follower down enough to allow the pistol to fire and not lock back.  No disassembly required.  To use the mag for live fire, I just have to compress the mag spring a little and push out the toothpick piece.  It takes less than 30 seconds to insert a new one to return it to dry fire mode.  Easy peasy.

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Post by Jack H Tue Oct 12, 2021 3:40 pm

xman wrote:I have also seen a piece of one of those magnetic business cards cut to shaped to fit and stick over the chamber area. It will stick to the steel and the firing pin will strike the other side. You will have to cut an area for the extractor to fit so that the bolt will close and the extractor not pull on the magnetic piece. It may involve a little trial and error.

Dry-firing a 22 LR handgun Img-0112
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Post by CrankyThunder Tue Oct 12, 2021 10:29 pm

jjbhonn wrote:Cranky, have you observed any debris from the deteriorating foam falling into the hammer mechanism, which may cause problems down the road?
Hey JJBHONN.  

If I did I used a different ear foam plug.  I have used the yellow ones, the orange ones, and the green ones, what ever is on hand.  cannot say that I ever noticed any debris or crumbs deteriorating from the ear plugs.
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Post by GME Tue Oct 12, 2021 11:28 pm

Jack H, I've got a question.   As I mentioned earlier, the firing pin on my M41 eats up hard plastic snap caps.  It ruins them in pretty short order.  So, what's the life expectancy of the thin, soft magnetic business cards?

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Post by Jack H Wed Oct 13, 2021 12:52 am

Fairly long time if you fit it well and clean the surface for a better stick.
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Post by GME Wed Oct 13, 2021 3:07 am

Jack H wrote:Fairly long time if you fit it well and clean the surface for a better stick.


Thank you, Jack.  I guess I'll have to give it a try.  I must have a couple of cards laying round.

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