Hammerli 208S Trigger Adjustments

Does anyone know which screws control the amount of 'roll' on a 208S?

This should help.

http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/sph208s.htm

I also have something up at Cleaning and Adjustments for the Hammerli 208s based on a session with Larry Carter.  The last item on the page addresses your query.

I seems then that the "roll" in the 208s trigger is accomplished in the linkage more than sear-hammer engagement.  Is that engagement factory set and then left to real technicians?

I wish mine were single stage.

Thank you gentlemen!
So it's the screw on the forward side of the real the trigger slides on?

I acquired an unfired 208S this week.  Very nice pistols.

Jack H wrote:I seems then that the "roll" in the 208s trigger is accomplished in the linkage more than sear-hammer engagement.  Is that engagement factory set and then left to real technicians?

I wish mine were single stage.

There is a fixed (determined by hammer cut) amount of sear travel before disengagement with the hammer.  The second stage adjustments allow for the ability to shorten or lengthen the perceived travel (roll) for the second stage.  This is done by adjusting how soon the second stage comes into play.  If you shorten the second stage, the first stage will be longer.

Steve B wrote:Thank you gentlemen!
So it's the screw on the forward side of the real the trigger slides on?

The screw on the front of the rail that the trigger slides on determines the take-up.  A slight amount of take-up is needed to ensure the trigger bar re-engages the sear arm.

The roll is adjusted by the outer of the second stage adjustment set, located within the magazine well.

This is described on the page I referenced earlier.  Do I need to add more clarity to that explanation, or are we perhaps referencing a different definition than the standard one for "roll?"

Ed Hall wrote:

Steve B wrote:Thank you gentlemen!
So it's the screw on the forward side of the real the trigger slides on?

The screw on the front of the rail that the trigger slides on determines the take-up.  A slight amount of take-up is needed to ensure the trigger bar re-engages the sear arm.

The roll is adjusted by the outer of the second stage adjustment set, located within the magazine well.

This is described on the page I referenced earlier.  Do I need to add more clarity to that explanation, or are we perhaps referencing a different definition than the standard one for "roll?"

Thank you for explaining.  I thought the slotted screw, concentric to the second stage weight, was for trigger overtravel.
The feel I'm trying to achieve is one of a long roll trigger as opposed to a crisp.

The trigger overtravel is somewhat hidden.  You have to pull the trigger guard down and look from the front under the barrel, into where the front tab of the guard enters the frame.  The long Allen wrench that came with the gun is used for that adjustment.

The roll is achieved by using an Allen screw to adjust the inner screw in the magazine well (behind the trigger) inward far enough that the concentric outer screw's slots are exposed.  The T shaped adjustment tool that came with the gun has a blade that fits that screw.  Be careful to make sure you fully engage both of the tiny slot areas.  By turning this screw in, you are making the second stage contact the trigger earlier in the arc.  This means more roll, but you have a limit.  I can't remember if you are able to adjust this screw far enough to act as a trigger stop, or not, but you might be able to.  In any case, you don't want to proceed that far, so check often.  Depending on how far in, you adjust the inner screw, you can limit its travel back into the outer screw, as well.  The tip of the inner screw is a tiny spring loaded plunger.  The second stage weight is dependent on the spring compression, so when you have adjusted the amount of roll via the outer screw, you then readjust the inner screw for the desired weight.  When you reach optimum setup, there should still be a tiny bit of travel left to the spring loaded plunger.  IOW, don't have the trigger pressing against the outer screw when it is fully back.