1911 hammer designs to lower mainspring weight.

First topic message reminder :

I have modified the hammer and firing pin retainer to lower the mainspring effect on recoil on my 1911s. My intent is to have as high a recoil spring weight as possible. In addition I've built my Homemade .22 conversion using a S2 tool steel slide. It is 2oz. heavier than my Nelson slide. In addition I put an Aluminum scope mount with iron sight from Nelson. As per him it was the only one he had, claims the aluminum mount don't sell. It is quite a bit lighter than the standard steel mount he sells. So the weight of the gun with aluminum scope mount is about the same as the Nelson with steel mount.
 All works well with CCI standard velocity ammo but not SK they don't eject. I also intend to make a longer ejector but the one installed is working fine. (it's a modified 1911 style ejector) I have a 16lb main spring in the gun but flat faced hammer I stole from my ball gun.
 I'm wondering what others are using or what might be available in hammer designs to help lower mainspring weight on the slide. Higher the contact the slide has with the hammer the greater the mechanical advantage the slide has in pushing the hammer back.
 Any suggestions? I have the hammer back in the attached photo, I intend to re-blue the gun after testing, possibly shorten the barrel. Currently there iis no firing pin in the gun due to me testing extraction using live rounds.

I was supposed to get the Tungsten Rod Thursday Dec. 12! It was being shipped from Hudson NY. Not very far from me in the middle of PA. Checked tracking From Hudson it went to Aurora Colorado and now it's in Denver! Claims I'll get it Monday Dec.16. USPS efficiency!! With my luck some postal driver will dump it to shorten their day!

Update  Pure tungsten shaft arrived. I turned a firing pin to the dimensions needed for my Homemade conversio, it's the same as the Nelson, I simply shortened a Nelson pin to fit my shortened rear portion of the slide. I thought it would work since after machining it to lessen waste I tried a 32/inch Starrett high end hacksaw blade,cut was slow but it did cut the tungsten! However I was wrong Tungsten is too brittle, it cracked in a place I didn't expect. Plus I'm not sure why! I located the retaining pin so that when the firing pin was  about 1/32" below the firing pin hole on the hammer side and the striking end flush with the slide so it would not hit the barrel. After about 10 shots the back of the slot for the retaining pin cracked off! The slot extends to the hammer end of the firing pin. When turning the firing pin I put a radius on the carbide cutter so not to have a sharp corner but cut the slot with and endmill. I guess I should have used a 3/32 endmil and cut the slot vertically so as to have a radius in the corners.
 I didn't dry fire the conversion and thought the brass rim would stop the pin before impact with the retainer. Pin will still work but will hit the barrel if dry fired. Maybe if I silver solder the end and re-cut the slot it will work.