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Equipment guidance for Pistol (Starting Out)

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RodJ
BE Mike
JRV
Ironshovel77
bruce martindale
gwhite
DA/SA
Froneck
Jack H
john bickar
Wobbley
chiz1180
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Shellback
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Post by Shellback Mon Jan 06, 2025 2:11 pm

First topic message reminder :

Hope everyone had a great holiday season. I just shot my first indoor bullseye match and looking at using 2025 to seriously pursue getting better at this discipline (plus shooting indoors during winter is great).

I have the following questions and appreciate any guidance. My goal outside of improving is to perform well at Pistol matches, specifically EIC matches. I'm focusing on Pistol for now and at the match I used a borrowed 22lr conversion and a 45 I have that fits for service pistol, centerfire, and 45. 

I shot the match with what I have for the experience (fun) and to determine what I should get. My background is action shooting in Steel Challenge, USPSA, IDPA, and some multi-gun but I'm looking at dedicated equipment for bullseye (pistol). 

Looking for input on the following (Looking for entry-mid level equipment that scales with my current). 2handed with a red dot pistol I can pull high 90s on a B-8 at 25yds, I haven't shot a red dot gun bullseye stance/one handed yet but with an iron sight centerfire gun I can do mid 70-ish (I just need more reps and sets). 

22lr Pistol 
- Right now I have a Ruger MkIV LITE for another game but pondering a Ruger MkIV Target and a ton of ammunition and practice (I'm not at the Pardini level yet). I know 22lr can be very finicky but I'm putting a premium on reliability. 

Centerfire Pistol
- Most likely a 1911 variant that can work for service pistol, centerfire, and 45. Looking hard at a Rock River Arms and maybe even a Les Baer. Open to 9mm options as well 

Reading 
- I've already read "With Winning in Mind", "The Inner Game of Tennis", and have done a Mental Management program that has helped in other games. Bullseye specific I'm reading the AMU Marksmanship Guide and any bullseye centric book recommendations are appreciated. 

Appreciate the guidance and also shout out to NukeMMC and a couple other Navy folks for helping me out.

Shellback

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Post by Shellback Tue Jan 07, 2025 8:58 am

JRV wrote:Not to throw an unneeded $0.02 into an already full piggy bank of advice…

Since you’re looking at RRA for the .45/CF 1911, I’m PRESUMING budget sensitivity isn’t a huge issue.  It’s an issue for everyone to some extent, but we’re not talking about scrimping pennies and eating ramen to buy a Hi-Point.

Get the best .22 you feel comfortable spending “fun money” on.  If you ever need to turn it back into cash, they hold value.  You’ll always be able to get a Ruger Target model at any time if things don’t work out.

As for .22 suggestions—it needs to be reliable, well-balanced, and have an excellent trigger.  Look at what the Masters and HMs shoot.  A Hammerli 208/215 or a well-preserved Hamden High Standard is a pretty economical way to get a proper match pistol.  The 1911 conversions are immensely popular.  

Just a quick correction re: Shue’s choice—he runs a Nelson conversion from time to time, but his #1 .22 is a 208.  He has a locker full of 208s and spare parts in his machine shop.  He’s local; I shot his main 208 at a match recently when my conversion was disabled.

There are no trophies or badges given based on points earned per dollar spent.  In a perfect world with unlimited access to match pistols and spare parts, the only advice would be, “buy the pistol with which you shoot your highest scores consistently.”  Parking money in quality equipment is not a question of buying points—it’s removing unnecessary impediments to shooting at the limit of your ability.

This is the route I'm going, for now it's getting my fundamentals down and putting the work in. The bullseye community is very similar to other shooting sports in that most shooters are very encouraging and typically happy to give guidance or look at equipment. I did a similar thing in USPSA, where I got something that didn't hold me back at my level or a generic setup gun. Then, getting better, I was more informed and had an easier time figuring out preferences.

Shellback

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Post by RodJ Tue Jan 07, 2025 9:45 pm

Man oh man, all this advice from Master and High Master shooters, and not one mediocre marksman pitching in. 8-)

From the cheap seats:
Rock River over Les Baer. All. Day. Long. Or used "built" pistol.  Or the Springfield mentioned above.  Price being the guide for starter / mid level. Might shoot some matches with .22 and make that decision down the road.

Stupid reliability / reasonable cost .22 for beginner / mid level = Ruger Mk pistol, which ever style you shoot best.  Any of these "hoity toity Masters" can crush it with a Ruger, even with a stock trigger.  Pocket change money for a trigger job, and I'd let them shoot an apple off my head at 50 yards (with GOOD ammo LOL).  

I shoot better scores with an ML series High Standard Victor, but I think that's only because the trigger is better.  And only because mine has been super reliable.  Price $600-700.  Really almost in line with a Ruger and trigger job.  That said, a Ruger is a forever gun for a blue collar shooter or a white collar shooter if he / she is willing to admit it after a few drinks.

Marine Corp Manual - if it works for you and you have The Right Stuff, go for it.  Bruce's Feeling Center has been very helpful explaining the "why".

But all the books and reading and thinking that I did at the beginning, didn't compete with the words "an uncluttered mind".  Quantum leap for me, because I suffer from a right brain dominance overthinking and under practicing.  It took a lay off, stepping back, and then caving in to an uncluttered mind before anything changed.  It's not easy, but it's really a stupid simple activity, if you don't get in the way.  That's not a perfect sentence or summary but that's helped me: An uncluttered mind.

RodJ

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Post by Shellback Tue Jan 07, 2025 10:14 pm

RodJ wrote:Man oh man, all this advice from Master and High Master shooters, and not one mediocre marksman pitching in. 8-)

From the cheap seats:
Rock River over Les Baer. All. Day. Long. Or used "built" pistol.  Or the Springfield mentioned above.  Price being the guide for starter / mid level. Might shoot some matches with .22 and make that decision down the road.

Stupid reliability / reasonable cost .22 for beginner / mid level = Ruger Mk pistol, which ever style you shoot best.  Any of these "hoity toity Masters" can crush it with a Ruger, even with a stock trigger.  Pocket change money for a trigger job, and I'd let them shoot an apple off my head at 50 yards (with GOOD ammo LOL).  

I shoot better scores with an ML series High Standard Victor, but I think that's only because the trigger is better.  And only because mine has been super reliable.  Price $600-700.  Really almost in line with a Ruger and trigger job.  That said, a Ruger is a forever gun for a blue collar shooter or a white collar shooter if he / she is willing to admit it after a few drinks.

Marine Corp Manual - if it works for you and you have The Right Stuff, go for it.  Bruce's Feeling Center has been very helpful explaining the "why".

But all the books and reading and thinking that I did at the beginning, didn't compete with the words "an uncluttered mind".  Quantum leap for me, because I suffer from a right brain dominance overthinking and under practicing.  It took a lay off, stepping back, and then caving in to an uncluttered mind before anything changed.  It's not easy, but it's really a stupid simple activity, if you don't get in the way.  That's not a perfect sentence or summary but that's helped me: An uncluttered mind.


Yeah, doing the ruger and actually got a target upper and can't wait to see how it groups and get some cases of ammo through it. While I can spring for a RRA now for centerfire that will be my reward for when I put in the work with the 22lr and get locked into this type of shooting and downloaded the bullseye app to get used to the commands and par times. 

The mental game is really cool and looking at the Marine Corps Manual I'm mulling on having it printed to use as a training log. Already reached out to Bruce for a copy and looking forward to adding it to my mental game collection.

Shellback

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Post by Froneck Tue Jan 07, 2025 10:30 pm

Look at it this way, AMU shooters are the best there are! When Adam was teaching a New Shooter it was easier if he knew nothing about shooting, less bad habits to overcome! Next They put the best pistols in his hand, all he did was clean the gun, everything else was done by the smiths! Even the ammo was tested and best lot for the gun issued! All the shooter had to do is practice!
 So get the best you can afford, find the best ammo it will shoot then learn to shoot! The level you want to attain will dictate the amount you will practice to learn what's required. Don't go to the range and shoot until knee deep in brass! Determine why the last 10 fired didn't do as you wanted. Perfect practice makes perfect scores! Shooting is skill, develop the skill needed and you'll excel in the sport. Shoot hundreds of rounds down range and change nothing will end the same. The score you want to beat is the previous best score you shot!
 There are a lot of different guns available but the one that has stood the test of time is the 1911! I'll bet just about everyone here has at least 1, AMU shooters use the 1911 in NRA Bullseye competition. It's the 1911 because it was in 1911 that the Army accepted the gun as the service side arm! After all these years the 1911 is still being made by various companies! There is more stuff and parts for the 1911 available than any other pistol!
 Remember the most important adjustment the shooter has to make is between his ears!

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Post by chiz1180 Wed Jan 08, 2025 12:36 pm

DA/SA wrote:
chiz1180 wrote:The mindset that your 22 needs to be like a 1911 is overrated, 
Didn't the AMU shoot Hammerli's with 1911 grip adapters?

Not saying that it has to be 1911 related, but there certainly is some considerable success by doing so.

By that logic, if it was a universally significant advantage to the grip adapted Hammerli's, every amu shooter would use them exclusively, it was my observation in 2024 that while a significant number of them did, not all did. 

It is also funny that people ignore that the AMU and other military teams are teams, where as most civilian shooters are individually supported. What works for a team may not be best for an individual and vise versa.
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Post by chiz1180 Wed Jan 08, 2025 12:50 pm

bruce martindale wrote:My complaint about the Marine manual is…it doesn’t tell you how to do it. If you have a mentor, a coach or just other shooters, that’s a help but for most folks the info snd intensity is too low and progress can be exasperatingly slow, if at all. I struggled with that issue myself.

If l may suggest one more book to read…it’s Feeling Center as shown in the banner ad on the main home page.

I think you’ll be pleased.
It's almost as if the Marine Corps manual's purpose wasn't to be used for a self guide to getting better at shooting, if you actually look at it objectively it is more so a team evaluation metric. I would also argue it is 1/3-2/3 longer that it needs to be.

All books have bias and at the end of the day if it is a book that is "being purchased" one must also consider that one objective of any book is sales and that any such text may have certain things added or even not included to make them more "saleable". 

Take everything you read with a grain of salt and with an open but skeptical perspective. The more you read the more you will come to realize that 99% of the books on this sport essentially say the same things with a slightly different perspective. A book may not be the best method to advance for all people, some people would do far better with coaching, some people struggle when coached, and others succeeded with trial and error. Different people learn things in different ways. 

Some traps that I have seen with people who heavily rely on information from things they have read, is that they incorrectly assume that their current issues are the same as the author of what they have read, or they have a tendency to focus too heavily on the things from the readings and deviate concentration from their shot process.
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Post by DA/SA Wed Jan 08, 2025 1:48 pm

bruce martindale wrote:My complaint about the Marine manual is…it doesn’t tell you how to do it. If you have a mentor, a coach or just other shooters, that’s a help but for most folks the info and intensity is too low and progress can be exasperatingly slow, if at all. I struggled with that issue myself.
So true when you are new to this type of shooting. Similar to your book, going through it again a little farther down the road helps understand it better.

Another issue I found was printing the targets on white printer paper!

When I was using the manual, I bought manilla colored paper to print them on and it made a significant difference. Being in Florida where we actually have sunshine, the bright white paper washed out the dot and there was significant glare. Just too much contrast, even with sunglasses on. 

Just something to consider for those printing their own targets.
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Post by Shellback Wed Jan 08, 2025 2:04 pm

DA/SA wrote:
bruce martindale wrote:My complaint about the Marine manual is…it doesn’t tell you how to do it. If you have a mentor, a coach or just other shooters, that’s a help but for most folks the info and intensity is too low and progress can be exasperatingly slow, if at all. I struggled with that issue myself.
So true when you are new to this type of shooting. Similar to your book, going through it again a little farther down the road helps understand it better.

Another issue I found was printing the targets on white printer paper!

When I was using the manual, I bought manilla colored paper to print them on and it made a significant difference. Being in Florida where we actually have sunshine, the bright white paper washed out the dot and there was significant glare. Just too much contrast, even with sunglasses on. 

Just something to consider for those printing their own targets.

On the paper I got a stack of B-8s on the standard color paper versus the printer paper. If the glare isn't bad or if I'm indoors I'll use targets on printer paper.

Shellback

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Post by BE Mike Wed Jan 08, 2025 4:32 pm

bruce martindale wrote:Focus on shooting a 22 well first. They’re accurate and precise, economical to use . Buy several and see what you prefer. Basics learned there can then be applied to CF/45. 

Another cheer for 1911 conversions here. Oh and BTW..look at some airguns too.
I started off shooting bullseye pistol matches with a .22 only because it was all I could afford. I was a pretty poor shooter, but determined. I remember shooting long line scores in the 50's. I wasn't what you'd call a natural...not even a tiny bit talented, but I was stubbornly determined. I advanced somewhat with the .22. When I finally could afford a 1911, it was a series 70 Colt Gold Cup. I struggled even more. Looking back, I wish that I could have afforded an accurized 1911 and started off shooting both. If I could have had access to some good coaching, I think that I could have advanced farther quicker, but I had to learn the hard way, developing bad habits, breaking them and trying again. BTW, the GC wasn't up to the job, even after a trigger job.
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Post by jareds06 Thu Jan 09, 2025 2:57 am

I made a topic detailing what I spent/bought my first year of bullseye that I will post below if you are interested but I'll summarize it here

Knowing what I know now, my recommendation for anyone starting out in the sport is to get a good .22 like a Hammerli 208, a lot of .22 ammo, a solid service pistol like a Beretta 92 (Swap out the sights for black on black LPAs) or the MAC JSOC 1911 form Tisas and hit the matches hard with just the .22. If you can't hit your goals in the 2700 with a .22, what chance do you stand with a .45? .22 handguns are cheap, fun, and accurate and the winner of the .22 Only category at Perry last year won a damn Pardini (I knew I should have shot .22 only!)! 

Not to mention the .22 is used in all the major international sports and it looks like 25m Rapid Fire is being replaced by 25m Sport Pistol from here on out  making it less necessary to have *the* rapid fire-spec'd Pardini SP22. The sky really is the limit with a solid .22. Make it an extension of yourself, it is *the* most important pistol you can own. The custom 1.5" 1911/.45 should come later in my opinion, probably after you can prove to yourself you can reliably break somewhere around 92-94 at 50 yards with the .22. At this point you will probably only be hitting 90 average with your service pistol, the limiting factor most likely being the pistol itself, at least this is what I've found in my own shooting.

jareds06 wrote:Guns:
Service Pistol: Swiss SIG P210-6: $2500
22 EIC: Hammerli 208: $900
Revolver: S&W K38: $500

Ammo:
9mm: ~3000 rounds: $850 (124gr Swiss P approx 425/1500)
.22 LR: ~3,000 rounds: $250 (CCI Std, approx 8cpr)
.38 Special: ~900 rounds: $350? (PMC Bronze 132gr, bought a 1000 round case for about $350)
.45 Auto: ~300 rounds: $generously donated by many! (Atlanta Arms JHP)

Misc equipment: 
Stapler $10
Tape $5
Scope w/ stand $40
Gym Bag $20
CLP: $cheap
ECI: free

Total: $5425
Accomplished: P100, Dist. Pistol, 22, and Revolver

Now that's what I ended up spending, but I don't think you would really need to spend that much to accomplish the same things.

If I did it again knowing what I know now, I think the only thing I would change is I would not have purchased the P210-6 to be my service pistol. I would have used a Beretta 92A1 I picked up for about $600 a couple years ago. Recently, in testing with the same ammo, I put a 4 inch group down at 50 yards with only a change of sights. The group scored 93 and that was without any sight adjustment after installing; if the group was centered it could easily have been a 96 or 97. My Second target was an 87 and entirely due to me wanting to get out of the 109 degree heat. With the stock sights, I shot an 85 at 50 yards once figuring out roughly where to hold (top right of the repair center, gotta love fixed sights). In timed fire I averaged a 96 with stock sights and a 98 with the target sights. For rapid, my weakest stage, I averaged an 89 with stock sights and 90 with target sights. And just to establish a baseline on both days, I shot my P210 and shot my average of about 90%.

Stock Sights: 85+96+89: 270/300
Target Sights: 87+93+98+90: 368/400

That is MORE than enough to go distinguished and get P100, especially if I were to practice my rapid fire more and really hammer down the short line. 

So I would say if I could go back in time for Service Pistol I would spend
A good Beretta 92A1: $600
"Good" = handle them at the store and find the one with 0 barrel play at the muzzle or breech, mine has almost none
LPA target sights: $100
3000 rounds of 9mm: $850
Total price: $1550
What I actually spent on Service Pistol (not including general items): $3350
What I spent on .22 EIC: $1150
Revolver: $850

What this doesn't account for is the many thousands of dryfires and all the time that took. So what does a shooter really need to start in bullseye? I think if I had to direct someone, I would have them buy a high quality target 22, like an H208 or S&W 41, and a ton of CCI standard. That can get them started on earning their first distinguished badge as well as participating in the 2700s via .22 only. I'd say they should probably pick up a stapler, some masking tape, and a cheap scope with a stand, but they really don't need a box (other than a pistol case). 

Their next purchase should be a service pistol, and for that I'd recommend a Beretta 92 primarily for the fact that good quality 9mm is so, so much less than good .45. I'm waiting to hear what Jon Shue has to say about the 2 Tisas 1911's he's rebuilding and I'm also doing a similar test with my own Tisas 1911. So far I've replaced the sights with target sights and was able to hit a 1/3 torso at 100 yards with atlanta arms, havent done a serious 50yd/25 yd test yet. I think I would still nudge them toward the Beretta just due to ammo costs.

For revolver, S&W model 14s/K38s are INCREDIBLY cheap for how high quality they are and it's the obvious choice. PMC Bronze has shown itself to be more than adequate for both the long and short line.

As for a really nice/custom built .45 match pistol, I don't think that would be a wise year 1 investment for a new bullseye shooter and chances are they'd be waiting some time to receive it depending on who they order it from.
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Post by Shellback Thu Jan 09, 2025 9:45 am

jareds06 wrote:I made a topic detailing what I spent/bought my first year of bullseye that I will post below if you are interested but I'll summarize it here

Knowing what I know now, my recommendation for anyone starting out in the sport is to get a good .22 like a Hammerli 208, a lot of .22 ammo, a solid service pistol like a Beretta 92 (Swap out the sights for black on black LPAs) or the MAC JSOC 1911 form Tisas and hit the matches hard with just the .22. If you can't hit your goals in the 2700 with a .22, what chance do you stand with a .45? .22 handguns are cheap, fun, and accurate and the winner of the .22 Only category at Perry last year won a damn Pardini (I knew I should have shot .22 only!)! 

Not to mention the .22 is used in all the major international sports and it looks like 25m Rapid Fire is being replaced by 25m Sport Pistol from here on out  making it less necessary to have *the* rapid fire-spec'd Pardini SP22. The sky really is the limit with a solid .22. Make it an extension of yourself, it is *the* most important pistol you can own. The custom 1.5" 1911/.45 should come later in my opinion, probably after you can prove to yourself you can reliably break somewhere around 92-94 at 50 yards with the .22. At this point you will probably only be hitting 90 average with your service pistol, the limiting factor most likely being the pistol itself, at least this is what I've found in my own shooting.

jareds06 wrote:Guns:
Service Pistol: Swiss SIG P210-6: $2500
22 EIC: Hammerli 208: $900
Revolver: S&W K38: $500

Ammo:
9mm: ~3000 rounds: $850 (124gr Swiss P approx 425/1500)
.22 LR: ~3,000 rounds: $250 (CCI Std, approx 8cpr)
.38 Special: ~900 rounds: $350? (PMC Bronze 132gr, bought a 1000 round case for about $350)
.45 Auto: ~300 rounds: $generously donated by many! (Atlanta Arms JHP)

Misc equipment: 
Stapler $10
Tape $5
Scope w/ stand $40
Gym Bag $20
CLP: $cheap
ECI: free

Total: $5425
Accomplished: P100, Dist. Pistol, 22, and Revolver

Now that's what I ended up spending, but I don't think you would really need to spend that much to accomplish the same things.

If I did it again knowing what I know now, I think the only thing I would change is I would not have purchased the P210-6 to be my service pistol. I would have used a Beretta 92A1 I picked up for about $600 a couple years ago. Recently, in testing with the same ammo, I put a 4 inch group down at 50 yards with only a change of sights. The group scored 93 and that was without any sight adjustment after installing; if the group was centered it could easily have been a 96 or 97. My Second target was an 87 and entirely due to me wanting to get out of the 109 degree heat. With the stock sights, I shot an 85 at 50 yards once figuring out roughly where to hold (top right of the repair center, gotta love fixed sights). In timed fire I averaged a 96 with stock sights and a 98 with the target sights. For rapid, my weakest stage, I averaged an 89 with stock sights and 90 with target sights. And just to establish a baseline on both days, I shot my P210 and shot my average of about 90%.

Stock Sights: 85+96+89: 270/300
Target Sights: 87+93+98+90: 368/400

That is MORE than enough to go distinguished and get P100, especially if I were to practice my rapid fire more and really hammer down the short line. 

So I would say if I could go back in time for Service Pistol I would spend
A good Beretta 92A1: $600
"Good" = handle them at the store and find the one with 0 barrel play at the muzzle or breech, mine has almost none
LPA target sights: $100
3000 rounds of 9mm: $850
Total price: $1550
What I actually spent on Service Pistol (not including general items): $3350
What I spent on .22 EIC: $1150
Revolver: $850

What this doesn't account for is the many thousands of dryfires and all the time that took. So what does a shooter really need to start in bullseye? I think if I had to direct someone, I would have them buy a high quality target 22, like an H208 or S&W 41, and a ton of CCI standard. That can get them started on earning their first distinguished badge as well as participating in the 2700s via .22 only. I'd say they should probably pick up a stapler, some masking tape, and a cheap scope with a stand, but they really don't need a box (other than a pistol case). 

Their next purchase should be a service pistol, and for that I'd recommend a Beretta 92 primarily for the fact that good quality 9mm is so, so much less than good .45. I'm waiting to hear what Jon Shue has to say about the 2 Tisas 1911's he's rebuilding and I'm also doing a similar test with my own Tisas 1911. So far I've replaced the sights with target sights and was able to hit a 1/3 torso at 100 yards with atlanta arms, havent done a serious 50yd/25 yd test yet. I think I would still nudge them toward the Beretta just due to ammo costs.

For revolver, S&W model 14s/K38s are INCREDIBLY cheap for how high quality they are and it's the obvious choice. PMC Bronze has shown itself to be more than adequate for both the long and short line.

As for a really nice/custom built .45 match pistol, I don't think that would be a wise year 1 investment for a new bullseye shooter and chances are they'd be waiting some time to receive it depending on who they order it from.


Thank you so much for the breakdown. Right now, the only gun I have appropriate is a Ruger MIV 22/45 Target, and I just got a ton of 22lr and targets to cut my teeth. Once I can average 90+ or make some decent gains after getting down the fundamentals, I'll consider investing at a more serious 22lr. 

My hesitation with the Hammerli 208 is parts and such over time, and the Walther GSP is piquing my interest. 

I agree with the Berettas, and in other gun games, I run Langdon Tactical ones, and accuracy is never an issue for those games. For service pistol, I'm mulling on getting a 1911 so I can shoot the same gun in centerfire, 45, and service pistol.

Thanks again for the breakdown and perspective. 

The big thing for me at the moment is to practice more, get used to the commands, and put in the work...and fight the temptation to buy things impulsively.

Shellback

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Post by shanneba Thu Jan 09, 2025 12:13 pm

Selecting a bullseye 22 pistol Find one that feels good to you, you have confidence in and good adjustable sights.

From Gun Digest 1961 and the Pistol Shooters Treasury:
Gil Hebard tested 17 new 22 Pistols in two different mechanical rests.
Test was 5 10 shot groups at 50 yards, after 20 fouling shots with match ammo 

Ruger (was MKI then)
Custom Ruger(s)
Hi Standard (several models)
Colt  Match Target 
S&W model 41 7 3/8" and 5" (field barrel?)
S&W model 46
Hammerli model 200

All but one (a 22 short Hi standard) averaged a score of 300 with most also giving 30X

All guns with a muzzle brake were more accurate without it!

His conclusion "We found all guns chambered for the 22 LR have enough inherent accuracy to fire a perfect score on the 3.39" 10 ring and most will keep them touching the 1.695" X ring"

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Post by rich.tullo Fri Jan 10, 2025 12:29 pm

Reliable would be my first consideration because having ablis in your first matches makes a tough situation more challenging. 

I shot my best scores with a Hammerli Xesse and a Conversion. I like slabs and a 1911 grip angle. 

I deal with a lot of new shooter and so far the best ones to start with if you are on a Budget is the Browning Buck Mark Field Target or Contour (Same gun different grip sizes) 5.5 Barrell. Very little is needed to get you competitive, and Tandem Cross makes a drop in sear that work great. 1/2 hour worth of work (MAX) 

Ruger 22/45 is my second choice I would go with MK II or Mark IV and you will need to invest in about 200 in parts to get it to match winning potential. With the MK IV, You will need to replace the trigger, remove the magazine safety, prep the firing pin, shim the barrel and replace the extractor. About 2 hours worth of work but the gun will be 200% better. 

Both of the above are Bomb Proof. 

People love HS and they are hit and miss in terms of reliability but if you have one you can test drive the Citation or the Victor are great.
Like a HS a good M41 is hard to beat and with the right tuning they are as good as a Hammerli  208 . 

Everything will be roughly as accurate at 50 yards as a Pardini what you pay for when you get a high dollar EU gun is a gun that is potentially more shootible in Timed and Rapid Fire.
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Post by rich.tullo Fri Jan 10, 2025 12:51 pm

45acp an SRO costs about $800 if you can find LNIB. Trigger Job with factory MIM parts until they break, Tuning the extractor, Videki trigger,  and Mags 0 to 300 depending on DYI or Smith. New Barrel Cushing and Scope rail , $300 , PRA Aimpoint Clone $150, all in no barreling : Under $1500  

22LR shoot the Ruger you have and upgrade the trigger  , add Scope $350 max. 

Spotting scope $100 

Ammo  if you reload the 45acp  $500 after the initial investment in reloading gear. 

22LR A case of ELey Yellow box should cost around $600 

That should cost under $3000 just tell your wife it did not cost much and it'll be good.
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Post by gwhite Fri Jan 10, 2025 1:10 pm

rich.tullo wrote:

That should cost under $3000 just tell your wife it did not cost much and it'll be good.

In my case, I married a shooter.  That will double your costs.  Every time I get a new pistol, she has to get one too.  Now that I'm older & shaky,  she outshoots me on a regular basis.  The annoying part is that she never practices either....

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Post by Shellback Fri Jan 10, 2025 2:37 pm

rich.tullo wrote:45acp an SRO costs about $800 if you can find LNIB. Trigger Job with factory MIM parts until they break, Tuning the extractor, Videki trigger,  and Mags 0 to 300 depending on DYI or Smith. New Barrel Cushing and Scope rail , $300 , PRA Aimpoint Clone $150, all in no barreling : Under $1500  

22LR shoot the Ruger you have and upgrade the trigger  , add Scope $350 max. 

Spotting scope $100 

Ammo  if you reload the 45acp  $500 after the initial investment in reloading gear. 

22LR A case of ELey Yellow box should cost around $600 

That should cost under $3000 just tell your wife it did not cost much and it'll be good.

Thanks, shooting the Ruger and playing with different 22lr Ammo. 

Big thing I'm looking for is a bullseye box but in no rush. 

As for telling my wife, we have separate bank accounts so it works out lol

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Post by bruce martindale Fri Jan 10, 2025 2:46 pm

And it seems no one loves the AW93….

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Post by Shellback Fri Jan 10, 2025 2:50 pm

bruce martindale wrote:And it seems no one loves the AW93….

Off forum two people mentioned them and I think they're really cool. I'm however not at the level where I could appreciate it. 

Enjoying your book btw.

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Post by gwhite Fri Jan 10, 2025 3:39 pm

bruce martindale wrote:And it seems no one loves the AW93….
 A couple collegiate teams have them, but having the magazine in the grip limits the flexibility of grip size and trigger position, especially for people with small hands.  The tiny Asian women on the team I help coach could never shoot them as easily as the Pardinis & Benellis we have.  We have quite a few XXS grips in use.

Have run a lot of matches, they also seem to have a disproportionately large number of alibis compared to most other pistols.   For most teams, cleaning & lubricating is up to the students, and the AW93 may be a little fussier if not well maintained. 

They are also not cheap, nor as widely available used.  If they fit your hand and are well cared for, I expect they are fine.

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Post by Sa-tevp Fri Jan 10, 2025 6:52 pm

gwhite wrote:
bruce martindale wrote:And it seems no one loves the AW93….
 A couple collegiate teams have them, but having the magazine in the grip limits the flexibility of grip size and trigger position, especially for people with small hands.  The tiny Asian women on the team I help coach could never shoot them as easily as the Pardinis & Benellis we have.  We have quite a few XXS grips in use.

Have run a lot of matches, they also seem to have a disproportionately large number of alibis compared to most other pistols.   For most teams, cleaning & lubricating is up to the students, and the AW93 may be a little fussier if not well maintained. 

They are also not cheap, nor as widely available used.  If they fit your hand and are well cared for, I expect they are fine.

When I purchased my AW93 around 2016 George Brenzovich, who imported and supported FWB in the US, recommended greasy Euro ammo. I've never tried anything else. I think I have gone around 600 rounds without cleaning with no alibis. As long as you don't have a red dot mounted an AW93 is almost as easy as a S&W M41* to clean. 

*I've gone 700 rounds between cleaning in my M41 but try to clean before matches. I don't want to experience a 22LR out-of-battery event.

If anyone is going the Ruger direction it helps to have a blast shield over the trigger mechanism to keep grit out of the trigger and transfer bar for a 900 or a 22LR only 2700.

http://www.wiztechs.com/knightsrealm/guns/22-45/shield/blastshield.htm

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/blast-shield.546172/
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Post by gwhite Fri Jan 10, 2025 8:31 pm

It always amazes me that people recommend Rugers for competition shooting, and then turn around and say "but you need to do this, replace that, have a gunsmith fix this other thing, buy this accessory, etc."  Just get a High Standard, and start shooting...

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Post by Sa-tevp Fri Jan 10, 2025 8:35 pm

gwhite wrote:It always amazes me that people recommend Rugers for competition shooting, and then turn around and say "but you need to do this, replace that, have a gunsmith fix this other thing, buy this accessory, etc."  Just get a High Standard, and start shooting...

... and learn to maintain the HS magazines?  Cool
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Post by gwhite Fri Jan 10, 2025 8:54 pm

Sa-tevp wrote:
gwhite wrote:It always amazes me that people recommend Rugers for competition shooting, and then turn around and say "but you need to do this, replace that, have a gunsmith fix this other thing, buy this accessory, etc."  Just get a High Standard, and start shooting...

... and learn to maintain the HS magazines?  Cool
What's to maintain?   The whole thing about High Standards being supper fussy about magazines is overblown.  I have two Victors I shot regularly from about 1980 to 2000.  In the beginning, I had some feeding issues.  I measured the spacing of the feed lips of the magazines that worked, and adjusted the others to match.  I don't recall EVER having feeding issues after that.  They still both shoot fine with any magazine I have.   I don't recall ever even cleaning the magazines either.  They were mostly factory magazines, but I also had a couple aftermarket ones, and they worked fine too.

One of my Clubs has two High Standards from the mid-60's.  As Club pistols, they were abused & poorly maintained for decades.  The Club President had given up on them & thought they needed new barrels.  All they need was a proper cleaning to remove 60 years of carbon build up in the chambers, and new springs.  The magazines were filthy as well, and had clearly been dropped a few times.   I re-adjusted them, and they are fine now.

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Post by JRV Fri Jan 10, 2025 9:04 pm

Sa-tevp wrote:
gwhite wrote:It always amazes me that people recommend Rugers for competition shooting, and then turn around and say "but you need to do this, replace that, have a gunsmith fix this other thing, buy this accessory, etc."  Just get a High Standard, and start shooting...

... and learn to maintain the HS magazines?  Cool

As an absolute buffoon—I’m batting a thousand on tuning Hamden High Standard mags.  It’s almost insulting to call it tuning, because it’s a nearly idiotproof process.

- buy good magazines with the original pale green follower and 4# mag spring (Hamden mags are best)
- buy a HS mag tuning tool off eBay
- use the tail of the tool as a gauge to check front and rear feed lip widths
- adjust until the lips fit the tail gauge snugly (the tool comes with a picture guide; it’s the world’s simplest lever tool)
- use your eyes to make sure it’s pretty symmetric

And that’s it.  A minute or two per mag, tops, if they even need it.  I have some mags that gauged perfectly and needed nothing from me  Don’t drop the mag lips on something hard, and you’ll never have to tune them again. I have tuned six mags to fit the tool’s tail gauge, and they work perfectly in two different High Standards.

If you can field strip a MK IV Ruger, you have the dexterity needed to tune a HS mag.

The guns need very little maintenance besides cleaning. The old manual that came with my Hamden 107 essentially said “soak the bolt in kerosene every thousand rounds and consider changing the recoil spring after 15,000-to-20,000 rounds if you notice jamming.” If I ever need to, springs are available, and it’s a five minute job that requires a small hammer and punch.

The added gun weight and insane trigger quality make the effort and cost worthwhile. I have a VQ-tarted up Ruger with a 2 lb 2 oz trigger, and it is appreciably more difficult to shoot than the real match pistols.  The trigger on a match .22 can be made telepathic.  The weight and balance can be tuned with barrel weights.  The sight adjustments are precise and predictable.

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Post by Shellback Tue Jan 14, 2025 2:37 pm

UPDATE: Modified my grip, stance, and such with input from Bruce's book. After some dryfire I hit the range to zero.
- Mk IV Target
- Romeo 5 Sight
- Volquartsen trigger (retained the factory trigger spring to get it to meet the 2lb requirement)
- Volquartsen grips

Grouped ammo from SV to High Velocity. The SV ones grouped best at 25yds unsurprisingly.

What was nice was that the last target of the day I did a rapid fire set with high velocity (I have a lot of it for Steel Challenge) and was happy with a 90-1X to end the day on a high note.

I also ordered 5000 rounds of SV CCI, have a ton of B-8 targets, and printing out some score sheets to do practice matches on my own. Also got a membership at the indoor range to practice during winter.

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