Dry Fire Question - 9mm/.22

Sorry if this has been covered, but I have read a lot of dry fire questions and not quite seen this specific question.
It's easy for me to clear my 9mm (S&W M&P 2.0) and dry fire to my heart's content (I wait till the house is empty for various reasons). But getting out my .22 (S&W Victory) is a process and then there's the snap caps and/or replacing the pin with one I filed down (then putting it back when I'm done)...
Several considerations come to mind: these are two completely different pistols. The grip, the trigger (style and weight), the sites, weight of gun, etc. 
----Does it still help to do it? I think yes, but would like to hear thoughts if anyone has some.
thanks,
~Mike

All dry fire helps.
What is learned in trigger control, breathing and sight alignment applies to all firearms.
The caveat is dry firing a specific gun gets you well accustomed to that trigger, but the process applies to everything.

A few thoughts:

1. If you are doing too much work to ready a gun for dry fire, you need to find a simpler way.  You are already questioning whether to put forth the needed work because of the preliminary work.  There are several easier methods for most guns.  Maybe you can modify one of the M41 suggestions.  I like the 3-d printed solution as well as the trash can rim solution, although I haven't tried those personally.  Another possible thing to try is the o-ring around the portion of the firing pin that the hammer hits.

2. Proper dry fire training is necessary if you wish to improve more than just a little.  You can get better from live fire, but it can be hampered by things that dry fire training can take you past.

3. You should work primarily with your .22 until your .22 is around 85-90% in competition and then add in the 9mm, keeping your .22 at its level.

[quote="Otmike1111"] (then putting it back when I'm done)...
[/quote]
:lol!:

Thanks Ed, Ken and Beech.

Ed, you reference a couple of things I'm not yet familiar with [M41 and trashcan rim, e.g.], but your advice, and especially your articles (which have recently changed the way I train), have me locked down even tighter on increasing my dry-fire training. 
Since I'm not reliably at 90% (I assume that means 9/10 shots in the black), during competition, I have a plan to switch the pins after each match on Tuesday and then work out at home daily with your guidance from the articles (blank wall, comfort/consistency, hold, etc).

~Mike

Trash Can Snap Cap by E D Skinner

Make sure whatever you do use is held sufficiently tight as to take some effort to remove.  You don't want it falling out without you noticing.

Also, as to your shortened pin - if it breaks, the front portion will start reaching and damaging the chamber rim, so check it often.

(P.S. Thanks for the feedback on my articles.)

As mentioned the orange chamber flags sold by Red Feather work well. In my H208s one flag lasts a few months. It gets beat up by the pin but enough plastic remains to protect the chamber rim.

Thanks again Ed, for the helpful link and further recommendations. 
Had a good match last night, I can say as a direct result of the training tools implemented based on your articles. Next match is in two weeks and I have clear objectives for training in the interim. 
Cheers!
~Mike

JHHolliday wrote:As mentioned the orange chamber flags sold by Red Feather work well. In my H208s one flag lasts a few months. It gets beat up by the pin but enough plastic remains to protect the chamber rim.

Yes, I saw those -- I'll order some and give them a go! thanks!

JHHolliday wrote:As mentioned the orange chamber flags sold by Red Feather work well. In my H208s one flag lasts a few months. It gets beat up by the pin but enough plastic remains to protect the chamber rim.

I received my Red Feather flags per your recommendation, JH. Works great and solves the problem of safely dry-firing without snap caps and their multiple little annoyances. 
Also, Red Feather Outfitters might have one of the coolest logos I've seen! 
thanks for mentioning it.
~mike