Dedicated 1911 frame for Marvel .22 Conversion?

As stated in another thread, I just purchased a Marvel conversion unit (still in shipping). I planned on using this on my Colt GCNM frame with a 3 1/2 pound trigger.

Some, in the pistol club I belong to, recommend getting a frame made specifically made for this unit, thus allowing a 2# trigger, while others say that shooting with a 3 1/2# trigger is better.

Which option is the more prefered choice here?

I have my marvel set up with the same weight, same grips, and same sight as my center fire gun.  It may be poor logic but it makes me put more time on triggers that are basicly the same.  It may just be in my head, but the weight is not as important to me as the quality of the pull.  I can shoot better with a consistent/clean trigger that one that is gritty & light.

I've just completed a dedicated lower receiver for my Marvel. It's been a fun project that required only a few simple tools. I'd say getting the trigger right is the biggest trick. It seems to be a little more difficult to get a really clean trigger when it's down around two pounds.

I used a Foster frame that I picked out at Perry.  It has a checkered front strap and built in plunger tube. Very nice frame. I paid 170. for it. 

Jim

For me a heavier trigger gave me lower 22 scores. That's why I have a dedicated lower @ 2.25

I'd say if you're looking for a training pistol - something light recoiling and you don't have to reload your own ammo for it, something to learn how to manage a heavier trigger then it's not a bad idea. But in theory - or at least my opinion - a lighter trigger is easier to learn well. The fact that it's lighter - it could be that what ever mistakes you make with a heavier trigger won't show up as bad. It's more forgiving.

Lighter - more points 
Heavier - practice more

I put my Nelson Cutom upper (Marvel design) on a Remsport frame.
Components are a mix of Wilson Combat and STI.

Warhorse wrote:As stated in another thread, I just purchased a Marvel conversion unit (still in shipping). I planned on using this on my Colt GCNM frame with a 3 1/2 pound trigger.

Some, in the pistol club I belong to, recommend getting a frame made specifically made for this unit, thus allowing a 2# trigger, while others say that shooting with a 3 1/2# trigger is better.

Which option is the more prefered choice here?

Regardless of what you set the trigger weight to A dedicated lower is always the best option, no gun disassembly on the line, no rushing to get things back together and hope it functions properly which sometimes they don't. The only good reason for not having one is you cant afford it.

I deliberately set my lower to the same trigger weight as my 45. I wanted to use that to help my improvement on my 45 and frankly I'm happy with it at that weight even as my 45 scores have come up.

I'd have to recommend a dedicated lower with +3.5 lb trigger, as close as possible to the centerfire / .45 gun.  

First, the .22 unit will probably function better with a closer to standard mainspring strength.  Most people I see at matches with function issues with conversions are running light triggers. 

Second, the best benefit of a conversion is getting more trigger time with the .45 trigger.  If you lose a point in the .22 agg and gain a point in the CF and .45 agg (we have 2 900's versus one for .22); you get a 2 for one return on your equipment choice. 

Training with a lighter trigger may not be the best answer.  Learning to shoot a good +3.5 pound trigger can get a shooter further (learning consistent grip, completing the trigger process, developing strength and concentration on the dot / sight, etc.)  

Light and ortho grips = easy short term gain.
Standard weight and stock grips = long term gain.

For real trigger training, I will dry fire double action revolver and work on keeping the front sight aligned and in the notch for the whole shot.  That will develop some hand, arm and grip muscles.  And it will provide a lot of training for concentrating on maintaining sight alignment with all the other stuff going on.

Train hard, shoot easy.

Just some thoughts.

CR

I wish that I had read CR10x's advice when I was starting 2 years ago.  I believe it would have helped my 1911 shooting dramatically. 

My plan for this winter is to shoot a conversion with stock grips and a medium trigger for .22 for indoor matches and spend most of my practice time shooting the 45. A couple of weeks into that plan my 45 sustained fire has improved DRAMATICALLY and Wednesday it averaged 1 point less than my normal 22 Indoor practice sustained fire with a Benelli and Ortho Grips. (97 vs. 98). But there's alot more work to do

If it were me, I would have have 2 sear springs; 1 for 2.5# and 1 for 3.5# pulls. You learn a lot from using botj poundages. The light trigger helps refine your shooting minus the heavier trigger pull. The heavier helps you learn to squeeze through the shot. I recommend 2.25-2.5# pull on conversions. With 2# its way too easy to break early shots.
Jon

A quality trigger is part of the gunporn concept.  Can't describe it, but I know it when I shoot it.  And quality trumps pounds any day.  I did the N frame trigger pictured right.  It lifts 3# but feels like a hair trigger.  No push off either.

Dedicated frame: +1
3lb+ trigger pull: +1

I've found with a light trigger, on recoil recovery, i have to bring up the slack and stop applying pressure before I'm back to center.  This is different than my 45 shot process, where I want to control the dot back to center, slowly even, increasing the trigger pressure as I go.  The result of using a light trigger, for me, has been center-fire (45) and 45 scores generally better than my 22 scores. 

To get my trigger down to 2lbs on my Marvel, I put in a lighter mainspring.  After a while, I've been getting more and more light strikes.  Getting frustrated, I put the old mainspring back in, resulting in a 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 lb pull, with no leaf spring adjustment.  No more light strikes.  Better results in training.  Far more comfortable with my 22 shot process.

I wanted to try the light trigger and stick with it.  Now, I'm switching back.

Do what Cecil says.

Okay, I went and bought a completely finished frame from FCW, setup to run my new Marvel unit 1 aluminum lock back.

Guess you could say I jumped in with both feet, but it still winds up less than half the cost of a Pardini. 

2# crisp trigger. Yes, I want the points, I can always practice with both my wad gun, as well as this gun.

Foster Frame , 2.75 for me. too light does not give me  the latitude to cancel a bad shot.

If you think 2lbs is too light, best not to try shooting a free pistol. Mine is set at under 3oz (80g).

I bought a Springfield RO for my Nelson and had the front strap checkered along with a trigger job.  Spent the same money as having a lower built and have a complete .45 gun.

Warhorse wrote:Okay, I went and bought a completely finished frame from FCW, setup to run my new Marvel unit 1 aluminum lock back.

Guess you could say I jumped in with both feet, but it still winds up less than half the cost of a Pardini. 

2# crisp trigger. Yes, I want the points, I can always practice with both my wad gun, as well as this gun.

Picked up the frame Wednesday, the conversion was delivered yesterday, put an UltraDot on it last night.

I took it to the range and zero'd the red dot this afternoon.

It is absolutely amazing compared to my Ruger Competition Target. 

The little group mounted on a button like thing from Marvel, showed 7/8" @ 50 yards with CCI SV.