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Also a Noob with questions

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Post by Magload Fri Jan 27, 2017 10:03 am

Jorha's post Street to Fleet: A Noob's Journey fits right into what I am trying to learn.  I have shot long guns for 60 years but have really fell in love with handgun this last two years.  I qualified Expert on the 1911 in the navy many years ago to this day I don't know how.  The 1911s we were issued rattled even when in battery, but I got it done and got the medal.  We two years ago a started shooting at a indoor range just a few miles form the house and quickly found out at 20yds shooting rifle bullets through one hole gets boring fast.  Well I joined the Gun of the Month Club and starting buying pistols.  Well everyone at the range shoots the SD stuff 3 to 10 yards 2 handed.  I got petty good at this in two years and it also ceased to be a big challenge.  I tried IDPA but my old body didn't care for the run and gun and also I wasn't very impressed with the 8" zero down bullseye.  So this lead me back to BE.  This is a challange, a big challange.  I may not have enough years left to make High Master but I am going to try.

This all leads me to Jorha's post as he seams to be at the point I am at with the same questions I have.  I just don't want to railroad his post with my questions.

This leads me to my first question.  I am using MatchDot IIs on all my pistols and it seams to me that maybe with blank wall drills open sights might show movement better.  Should I be doing these drills with open then switch back to red dots when I get the fundamentals down.  This afternoon I am installing a KC battleaxe rolling ttrigger in the 1911 I am going to put the Nelson conversion on as none of my 1911s have any trigger movement till they break.  Don

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Post by Wobbley Fri Jan 27, 2017 11:44 am

I've stated before that shooting against a blank wall teaches sight alignment and trigger control.  The goal here is to shoot with perfectly aligned sights and to not disturb the alignment when you pull the trigger.  It is easier to do that when you're not distracted by a "sight picture" on an aiming mark.  When you can do this on an L 9  target twice or three time in a row, it may be beneficial to introduce an aiming mark at least half the time.  The object here is to learn to release the shot when the wobble is at its minimum and aligned in the aiming mark.  And you need to do this without snatching the shot.  You do this by releasing the shot once you start the shot process.  Do not relent and wait to dress it up.  If it goes south, stop and put the gun to your ret position and start all over.  In sustained fire you don't have the time so you have to learn to start the trigger process during recovery and realignment.

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