Replacement Trigger for Remington R1

I just received my trigger shoes from Froneck and must say these are some fine pieces of craftsmanship.  I placed the first on my LB Wad gun and man this thing has got to help me.

Now here is my question.  My Rem R1 that I am using for my Nelson build up has a trigger that does not stick far enough out of the frame to put a shoe on.  Can I replace this trigger with a after market like a Ed Brown 1911 trigger?  I want a three hole trigger does anyone have a recommendation.  I have a KC Battle Axe assembly in the frame but didn't change out the trigger at the time.  Trying to get the feel of the 22 and 45 close to being the same.  Not sure if I want to put a KC in the LB?  Don

An aftermarket trigger should go into your R1 but typically some minor fitting is needed with most aftermarket triggers is what I'm told. I put a nighthawk custom solid trigger in my Springfield Mil Spec. Had to be fitted.

Tim:H11 wrote:An aftermarket trigger should go into your R1 but typically some minor fitting is needed with most aftermarket triggers is what I'm told. I put a nighthawk custom solid trigger in my Springfield Mil Spec. Had to be fitted.

I have not looked into it yet but I am guessing we are talking about some filing or stoning to get it fit right in the frame.  Guess if I fitted a barrel I can get a trigger to fit.  I got a book and then Brownell's video might cover it.  Don

Yeah really it's making sure the shoe fits through the frame and opening (top flat or bottom flat, one, the other, or both may need to be stoned/filed) Double check your safeties and their functions afterwards.

It was on sale at Brownell's so I ordered one. Don

Frank would have made you a shoe that fit the R1 if you told him it was different. He might have one already.

Len

I recommend harrison triggers. Frank trigger shoes are the best.

Yes, a R1 will take any of the 1911 triggers. I'd suggest getting one without the holes if you already have the trigger shoe.

Yes I ordered the Ed Brown 3 hole long.  I wouldn't mind paying a smith to do it but we have a real lack of them around here.  The only good one retired.  My The M1911 Complete Assembly Guide by Walter Kuleck Vol 2 shows the job isn't to tough.  I had a bear of a time getting the KC fire control assy in so that is the part I am least looking forward to.  I fought forever getting the trigger bar lever so I could get the pin through it with out the disconnect and sear falling out of place.  But I guess 5 hours wasn't bad it took me two days to get the VQ assy in my Victory and have it work right.  Don

Slave pins are your friend...

I have a Springfield RO as a lower for my Nelson using the stock three hole trigger and one of Frank's extra wide shoes. I love it. Very comfortable. Very smooth.

Tim:H11 wrote:I have a Springfield RO as a lower for my Nelson using the stock three hole trigger and one of Frank's extra wide shoes. I love it. Very comfortable. Very smooth.

I have a SA RO it is one of my favorite 1911s and I am trying to keep stock but that is hard for me to do. I shoot the gun well and was going to use it for IDPA.  I fact a carried it for a while IWB.  Don

Magload wrote:

Tim:H11 wrote:I have a Springfield RO as a lower for my Nelson using the stock three hole trigger and one of Frank's extra wide shoes. I love it. Very comfortable. Very smooth.

I have a SA RO it is one of my favorite 1911s and I am trying to keep stock but that is hard for me to do. I shoot the gun well and was going to use it for IDPA.  I fact a carried it for a while IWB.  Don

Mine is not completely stock. Wilson Combat hammer, Colt sear, sear spring, and disconnector, Wolff 19# hammer spring, and a wedge Mainspring Housing.

LenV wrote:Frank would have made you a shoe that fit the R1 if you told him it was different. He might have one already.

Len

I talked with Frank about it and he was willing to try but there was not very much trigger sticking out when the trigger was all the way in.  Less then he was used to working with so it is just as easy to install a new trigger.  A 3 hole trigger will look better anyway.  When you don't shoot good looks is important. lol   I get 2 trigger shoes from him and they are very nice.  Don

I have a shoe on a three hole and it looks odd because the shoe blocks part of the holes. A shoe on a solid trigger looks much cleaner. Just my preference.

Tim:H11 wrote:I have a shoe on a three hole and it looks odd because the shoe blocks part of the holes. A shoe on a solid trigger looks much cleaner. Just my preference.

I must disagree.  The shoe looks hot on the 3 hole trigger.  Don

The issue with a standard shoe on a 3 hole trigger is placement of the setscrews .
Frank makes them as a special as I remember if you tell him..

james r chapman wrote:The issue with a standard shoe on a 3 hole trigger is placement of the setscrews .
Frank makes them as a special as I remember if you tell him..

Yes he made two for me. The R1 has a solid trigger it just doesn't stick out far enough when compressed.

I had three hole triggers or two hole on these but had to go to a solid to make them short enough. The trigger shoe (love them) made the trigger just a tad too long. Going to a short solid trigger made the fit right again.



Got to agree that 3 hole didn't look as good.



Frank made me special shoes to fit on odd shaped triggers. Like the Kimber match trigger in the first picture and three hole. The good news is that no matter what shape or how many set screws they all fit on solid.

today i receive my trigger shoe for my range officer medium trigger. The trigger in the pic is short,for demonstration purpose. 


  Frank trigger shoes are excellent,solid construction and excellent addition to every bullseye pistol.

Hi Guy's Thanks for all the praise for my shoe. I built the shoe to satisfy my finger and soon everyone else wanted it. Tapping Aluminum Bronze is not easy, that alloy does NOT like to be tapped and I have quite a few with broken taps in the hole for the set screw. But the alloy does make a great shoe.
 I can make a wide shoe for any trigger length but when it gets less than 13/64" or about .200" protruding out of the frame when the trigger is pulled to the stop or firing point. I have to know that length because I have a Caspian Frame that that has serious defects though not in the trigger area that I use to check the fit on those shoes that must fit triggers with less than .200" protrusion. Basically I cut the  groove depth less but being I locate the set screws as far back as possible I have to change the location of the set screws also.
 However when the length of protrusion is less than .175" it becomes a problem. Being that the radius of the trigger and the frame are different and the amount of protrusion is measured at the center the amount of protrusion near the top and bottom gets smaller the amount of protrusion at the location of the set screw gets less and less. I have made shoes to fit but it becomes quite a task. There is a point at which a shoe will not work, I can make a wide attachment but it fits inside the trigger and is in the shape of a T so I must modify the trigger.
 Those that don't like the fact that the shoe covers the holes of the trigger with 3 holes, though I haven't thought of it before, I can probably put those holes in the shoe too. But will require some fixtures. Currently I clamp the shoe in a Jig Borer with a T nut stud washer and nut. The washer is stepped so that a portion fits inside the ring. Torque required to drill and tap the holes will not move the ring having the clamping force so not to crush the ring. I'm thinking the force by an endmill needed to cut half round hole in the shoe will move it and break the endmill. I'm thinking a fixture that will not rotate be drilled with the same hole pattern as the setscrews be made, set screws inserted in the shoe ring and clamped will prevent any rotation and allow me to make the shoe that will not cover the holes. Will not make it better except look good.