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FTL new 1911

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Froneck
kc.crawford.7
joy2shoot
Aprilian
Jon Eulette
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Magload
LenV
james r chapman
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FTL new 1911 - Page 2 Empty FTL new 1911

Post by james r chapman Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:41 pm

First topic message reminder :

New optic ready 1911. shoots zero factory 185 well.
when I try to shoot my lead loads, this happens.
185 magnus #801 (fed gm45 buttonose clone), 4.0 WST

or, should I just move on to the regular #811/814 which cycles fine.
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Post by kc.crawford.7 Tue Aug 08, 2017 7:57 am

I tried to lengthen it .030, it jams the rifling.  What is the headspace on your barrel? Almost sounds like a finishing reamer wasn't used when cutting the chamber.
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Post by james r chapman Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:37 pm

Ok, tried the cartridges in all magazines in my Gold Cup. They all functioned as they should.

Went back to the new gun, removed the recoil spring and hand cycled the slide.

The bullets dove, then hit the ramp and shot up and caught the hood.

after looking at my other 1911's, I noticed the distance from the barrel and the frame.

apparently the smith wallowed out a #4 barrel link and that was allowing the barrel to slide away from the ramp by a substantial distance .

I have several new barrel links so I'll see if that helps.
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Post by Jon Eulette Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:54 pm

The edge of chamber where ramp meets chamber looks like it needs radiused; looks sharp. Are sides of cases getting dented?
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Post by LenV Wed Aug 09, 2017 12:57 am

Jon just reminded me what else I had to do to mine to fire the FMJ bullets. Ten minutes with a buffing wheel on my dremal took the sharp edges away.

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Last edited by LenV on Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:38 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : wrong picture)
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Post by Wobbley Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:11 am

james r chapman wrote:Ok, tried the cartridges in all magazines in my Gold Cup. They all functioned as they should.

Went back to the new gun, removed the recoil spring and hand cycled the slide.

The bullets dove, then hit the ramp and shot up and caught the hood.

after looking at my other 1911's, I noticed the distance from the barrel and the frame.

apparently the smith wallowed out a #4 barrel link and that was allowing the barrel to slide away from the ramp by a substantial distance .

I have several new barrel links so I'll see if that helps.
If this is a "new" gun from said smith, I'd be talkin' to him.... Mad
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Post by Jon Eulette Wed Aug 09, 2017 4:09 am

james r chapman wrote:Ok, tried the cartridges in all magazines in my Gold Cup. They all functioned as they should.

Went back to the new gun, removed the recoil spring and hand cycled the slide.

The bullets dove, then hit the ramp and shot up and caught the hood.

after looking at my other 1911's, I noticed the distance from the barrel and the frame.

apparently the smith wallowed out a #4 barrel link and that was allowing the barrel to slide away from the ramp by a substantial distance .

I have several new barrel links so I'll see if that helps.

Remove slide from frame. Take barrel and put in frame. Put slidestop in frame hanging straight down. Push barrel back and down so its fully lying on the frame in full recoil. The barrel should not rock. The slidestop pin should rotate freely. If barrel rocks its riding the link. If link doesn't rotate freely the link could be too short or too long. Also the rear of bottom barrel lug could be hitting the frame (VIS). Good Luck! :p)
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Post by Jon Eulette Wed Aug 09, 2017 4:11 am

james r chapman wrote:New optic ready 1911. shoots zero factory 185 well.
when I try to shoot my lead loads, this happens.
185 magnus #801 (fed gm45 buttonose clone), 4.0 WST

or, should I just move on to the regular #811/814 which cycles fine.

The factory Zero might be working because it recoils more. Sometimes that extra jarring of the pistol will allow it to function. When chambering a factory round is it smooth or does it sound like its hitting a speed bump?
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Post by james r chapman Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:11 am

Jon, the barrel does not rock, but, it does slide back and forth creating that excessive gap. When the barrel is pressed rearward the gap closes to an acceptable distance.
It looks like a #4 was oblonged to prevent riding the link but created this secondary problem.
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