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Grips for a 208s

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Steve B
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285wannab
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Grips for a 208s Empty Grips for a 208s

Post by 285wannab Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:46 pm

Hi All,
Looking for grips for my 208s that feel like a S&W 41.   A 41 with stock grips feel pretty good.  Any ideas?
Also does anyone use the CMM grip adapters?  How do you like them?
Thanks...

285wannab

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Post by Jack H Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:58 pm

CMM grip is good.  Get the tailpiece too.
Jack H
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Post by Steve B Sat Mar 17, 2018 1:09 pm

Something like this?
http://us.nill-shop.com/Special-grips-Pistols/Haemmerli-208208S215-symmetrical-finger-grooves-rhomlas
I use these, which are nice.
http://www.larrysguns.com/Products/Hammerli-208-Government-1911-Style-Grip__208GOV-NU.aspx

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Post by gregbenner Sat Mar 17, 2018 1:10 pm

I have the CMM 1911 conversion grips on my 208, very nice.

I also have their grips on one of my 41s.  The guns feel extremely close in feel.

http://www.cm-machine.com/1911-Frame-Adapters_c_15.html

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Post by 285wannab Sat Mar 17, 2018 1:34 pm

Do you guys use the cmm adapters to match your 1911 or do you use them over anatomical grips because they feel better?

285wannab

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Post by Jack H Sat Mar 17, 2018 2:08 pm

I have a 208s with the CMM grip and tail.  And another 208s with a Nill.  Both work fine.  The Nill on 208s is the only ergo grip I have tried that comes even close to fit me.  Nill on other guns , and Rink, and Motini, and Horton, all did not work for me.  I'd say that 208s Nill is only 1 of several ergos that actually worked.  Even a Nill on my LP10 failed to fit me.  Ergos are a crap shoot.  And if you dare cut and paste to fit, you got to know what you are doing. 
One other ergo grip, it almost works, is the black plastic one on my Hammerli 480 AP.  Its volume is good, but needs more length for hand width.
I do have a weird hand.  Wide and thick, but not long.
The CMM tailpiece is needed to prevent slide bite on my thick hand.  If your hand is lean, you probably don't need the tail.
Jack H
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Post by 285wannab Sat Mar 17, 2018 6:34 pm

Thanks for the replies...
 I have a Pardini but don't like the way it fits or balances in my hand.  I like the trigger.
I have the 208s now and it feels just right in the hand.  Just have to find grips that I like.  I like the Pardini trigger a lot more but am just learning the 208s adjustments and feel.

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Post by gregbenner Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:03 pm

285wannab wrote:Thanks for the replies...
 I have a Pardini but don't like the way it fits or balances in my hand.  I like the trigger.
I have the 208s now and it feels just right in the hand.  Just have to find grips that I like.  I like the Pardini trigger a lot more but am just learning the 208s adjustments and feel.


Just fyi, I also have a Pardini, and didn't really love the extreme grip angle.  I purchased the "steep" Rink grips which are more upright.  Big improvement.

I have Rink grips on my "s" as well.

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Post by BerryhillAC Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:08 pm

I can help you with your grip needs.  I make custom 3d-printed target pistol grips.  I big part of my work is making copies of grips from one gun you like using a 3d-scanner and then reproducing that grip for a different gun.  You can search this site and TargetTalk for lots of reviews of my work from satisfied customers.  You can also see examples of my work on the website (PrecisionTargetPistolGrips.com).  Take a look at it and let me know if you have any questions.

All best,
Andrew

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Post by Chris Miceli Sat Mar 17, 2018 9:16 pm

You can’t go wrong with the Cmm if you want the 1911 feel. Highly recommend it

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Post by 285wannab Thu Mar 22, 2018 10:01 am

Well I went ahead and bought the CMM grips.  I like the feel already.  My gun is semi apart now so I haven't shot it with the new grips on but they do feel better than what I had on.  Thanks
Here is a question about the second stage.  The weight on the second stage is to heavy.  When I back out the set screw to lighten  the second stage the little plunger disappears.  I guess the spring is that weak.  Am I right?  What about adjusting sear weight?  I am going to replace all the springs.

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Post by Ed Hall Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:01 am

285wannab wrote:...
Here is a question about the second stage.  The weight on the second stage is to heavy.  When I back out the set screw to lighten  the second stage the little plunger disappears.  I guess the spring is that weak.  Am I right?  What about adjusting sear weight?  I am going to replace all the springs.
The plunger will disappear if the inner (hex) screw is backed out enough, as it is captive on the spring.  This is normal.  But, there should be plenty of range for weight adjustment.  I would remove it all the way and check that the spring hasn't broken and wound itself within its coils.  The sear weight should be 1000 grams.  If you haven't seen it and would like to, I have a page on:

Cleaning and Adjustments for the Hammerli 208s

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Post by 285wannab Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:14 am

Thanks Ed,
I took apart the second stage and everything looks to ok.  I'm  guessing the spring has compressed after all these years so I will replace it.
I am having trouble knocking out the pin for the sear.  Can I take out the sear spring from the top after backing out the two screws without removing the sear?
Anything else I should be looking for while or doing while it's apart?

285wannab

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Post by Ed Hall Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:10 pm

285wannab wrote:Thanks Ed,
I took apart the second stage and everything looks to ok.  I'm  guessing the spring has compressed after all these years so I will replace it.
I am having trouble knocking out the pin for the sear.  Can I take out the sear spring from the top after backing out the two screws without removing the sear?
Anything else I should be looking for while or doing while it's apart?
The sear pin is a difficult pin to remove.  I rarely take mine out anymore.  The sear spring is easily removed from inside the grip.  It's a flat silver leaf with an indent for the cross pin.  If you look inside the magazine well with the grips removed, you should see it sitting parallel with the openings, just inside the back edge of the slots.  There is a small cross pin that holds it in place.  There's almost no pressure on the pin, but when you remove it, the spring will shift downwards slightly.  You should be able to push the pin out with a small jeweler's screwdriver or a really small hex wrench.  I wouldn't do anything with the two screws on top unless you want to change the sear weight.  One is the sear weight and the other is the lock for the weight screw. I think the top one is the lock, but I'm not near mine ATM.  You can probably tell by seeing which one extends to the spring.

When you clean up the sear nose, shine a good light down in and check that the crosshatch pattern is clearly visible.  You should not be able to see where the hammer hook was riding.  If the crosshatch pattern has been worn down, there is no recommended fix.  Another sear is really expensive, though.  I have a 208 with a slightly worn sear and Larry's Guns quoted me about $200 for a replacement.  If you keep it lubed with the recommended GRAPHITE-LESS moly, it should go for years with no visible wear.

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Post by 285wannab Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:29 am

Thanks Ed

I did get the sear out along with the sear spring.  I see no evidence of lines cut into the top of the sear.  Maybe Hammerli stop that process at some point???? 
I will start replacing the springs now.

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Post by Ed Hall Mon Mar 26, 2018 11:03 am

285wannab wrote:Thanks Ed

I did get the sear out along with the sear spring.  I see no evidence of lines cut into the top of the sear.  Maybe Hammerli stop that process at some point???? 
I will start replacing the springs now.
The crosshatch pattern is very fine and you may need magnification and strong light to see it well.  I don't know if the Trailsides still have it, but the 2xx series all do.  Unless someone has stoned your sear, it should still exist, at least in the area ahead of where the hammer hook rides.

Ed Hall

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