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45ACP cases sticking in Redding taper crimp die

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mspingeld
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Michael C
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Post by Michael C 5/23/2019, 4:35 pm

I have a new Redding competition taper crimp die and it has worked very well for about 300 rounds. I load on my Dillon 550. But it has started giving me trouble. I just loaded up a hundred and the loaded round is sticking coming out of the die. I took the die out and cleaned it and after 20 rounds it’s sticking again. Brass too clean? Any suggestions? Mike

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Post by PhotoEscape 5/23/2019, 4:40 pm

Not sure how you cleaned it. However you might need to take it totally apart and check if there are any lead shavings accumulated at and above crimp area. While micrometer adjuster and "guts" are out clean the die as you would clean barrel.
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Post by mspingeld 5/23/2019, 4:49 pm

I have that with new brass. A little Hornady case lube takes care of it.

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Post by Michael C 5/23/2019, 4:52 pm

Ok, I will have to complexly disassemble then. I just used a patch and some cleaning fluid. BTW, this is fired/cleaned brass and it’s only ever had 185 Nosler and Zero JHP bullets in it. Could it still be lead?

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Post by dronning 5/23/2019, 5:08 pm

Michael C wrote:Ok, I will have to complexly disassemble then.  I just used a patch and some cleaning fluid.  BTW, this is fired/cleaned brass and it’s only ever had 185 Nosler and Zero JHP bullets in it.  Could it still be lead?  
R U using case lube?? - Do what mspingeld said, use some OneShot on the cases.
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Post by Michael C 5/23/2019, 5:45 pm

No, I am not using any case lube. I will give that a try.

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Post by PhotoEscape 5/23/2019, 5:53 pm

Michael C wrote:Ok, I will have to complexly disassemble then.  I just used a patch and some cleaning fluid.  BTW, this is fired/cleaned brass and it’s only ever had 185 Nosler and Zero JHP bullets in it.  Could it still be lead?  

Easiest way to check - if you are able to make adjustment in crimp, it means that crimp ring is moving, and you need to lube cases as suggested above.  If crimp ring is stock and crimp size doesn't change even when you adjust micrometer, then you need to disassemble die - it can be clogged with any kind of debris, - brass, copper, etc.  I do it routinely for both Redding Competition seating and crimping dies.
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Post by Michael C 5/23/2019, 6:05 pm

I guess I will just try lube. I can adjust the crimp with no problem. Thanks guys!

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Post by jlow 5/24/2019, 1:29 pm

Your problem is not lead but brass galling as it is the brass from the case that comes into contact with the taper mechanism.  Take the die out and look at the part that comes into contact with the case and you will see brass coating.  It does not necessarily have to be all over, it could just be streaks.

Brass galling happens when you rub two dissimilar metal together without lube.  Once it starts, it adds on to itself and cleaning fluid and a patch does nothing.  What you need to do is to remove the galling or it will start all over again.  To remove, you can use a fine metal polish or something like a 0000 steel wool.


Once all the galling has been removed, use case lube and that will prevent more galling.

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Post by Aprilian 5/24/2019, 1:54 pm

jlow wrote:Your problem is not lead but brass galling as it is the brass from the case that comes into contact with the taper mechanism.  Take the die out and look at the part that comes into contact with the case and you will see brass coating.  It does not necessarily have to be all over, it could just be streaks.

Brass galling happens when you rub two dissimilar metal together without lube.  Once it starts, it adds on to itself and cleaning fluid and a patch does nothing.  What you need to do is to remove the galling or it will start all over again.  To remove, you can use a fine metal polish or something like a 0000 steel wool.


Once all the galling has been removed, use case lube and that will prevent more galling.
I had a similar problem and use case lube and occasional 2000 grit to avoid build up.   Take the die apart (very simple) and you will understand why the die behaves the way it does.   I have found that the Redding dies are not as finely finished as some others.  I have often wondered if they know that if it is too smooth it increases galling?
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Post by Michael C 5/24/2019, 2:38 pm

Ahhh, now I understand what is going on. Thank you guys!

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Post by Michael C 5/25/2019, 12:29 pm

I have never used one shot... do I have to wipe it off?

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Post by dronning 5/25/2019, 1:01 pm

Michael C wrote:I have never used one shot... do I have to wipe it off?  
Nope it evaporates and leaves behind a film, you don't need much!  I put a bunch of brass in a plastic coffee can and while shaking it in a circular motion I'll give it two quick shots and shake for a few more seconds.  If I think I was a little heavy then I'll let it sit for a couple of minutes before I dump it into my case feeder.
- Dave

If it feels like I have a dies starting to stick I'll shoot a little on my fingers and rub on the next case going into that die, that usually fixes it.
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Post by Michael C 5/25/2019, 2:58 pm

Ok, great thank you for the help!

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Post by Michael C 5/25/2019, 8:43 pm

Completely took the die apart and cleaned it. Tried the one shot and it worked like a charm! Everything is smooth as silk now. Thank you all.

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Post by noylj 5/27/2019, 8:05 pm

Those who super clean their brass have problems with galling in the expander plug and, sometimes, in the crimp die.
First, be sure the interior of the crimp die is polished smooth, If not, contact maker.
If well polished, then a LITTLE case lube on case before sizing will improve operations.

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