Rink Grips.

I bought a Rink grip, with the upswept palm shelf for my Benelli. Liked it enough to buy another for my back up .22 Ruger MkII. Both are size small, right handed, but the one on the Ruger feels much larger then the one on the Benelli. Might be because of the pistol designs. I can not get my trigger finger in deep enough for a straight rearward trigger press. Before I start hacking away with a wood rasp on a $300 grip, I'm seeking advice. It looks to me if I could remove about 1/8" from the inside of the right grip panel on the Ruger grip, it should make the overall size smaller / thinner. But, to do that, and do it correctly, I'd need a woodworker / cabinet maker with a mill. Am I on the right track, or is hacking away with a wood rasp on the outside the only answer? I do not want to mess up these grips.

Greetings,

Write to Rink and describe the situation. They may offer to swap you for a smaller grip or offer advice.

Cheers,

Dave

Definitely talk to Rink. I've noticed the same thing between their models - their grips for frame-type pistols (AW93) definitely fit a bit differently from the Rink Benelli model (which has only a single fixing bolt within the wood).

I considered removing wood at the very back of the frame-type grip, but I ended up noticing that it was the "corners" of that space which was causing the extra reach. I was able to remove a rather small amount of wood from the area under my index finger knuckle, and the grip feels the same as the Benelli's..

Whatever you decide, go slow. You'll be surprised how little it can take.

I have more than a dozen pairs if Rink grips, including on my Benelli MP 90, and my Volquartsen Scorpion (Which is a Ruger Mark 3 clone). All in medium. Particularly comparing to Benelli to the Ruger I noticed the same thing as you. I also assumed it was the frame. 

I noticed a similar issue my Hammerli  SP 20 (grip feels larger), and Thomas explained that it was the frame. Just  FYI.

If you do write to Thomas, I’d be interested in his response. I have found him to be very responsive.

As someone who loves their current Rink and just ordered another for my MkIII I appreciate the heads up! One of the features of the Pardini GT45-II grip I have in medium is that for me, my finger fully extended puts it right where I want it on the trigger. If the Ruger grip gave me any less finger length that'd be a problem. I'll write them to make sure. Thanks for the heads up. I want the Ruger grip to be as perfect as the one they made for my Pardini.

fc60 wrote:Greetings,

Write to Rink and describe the situation. They may offer to swap you for a smaller grip or offer advice.

Cheers,

Dave

I emailed Rink Sunday evening and got a reply by morning (my time).  Mr. Thomas Rink asked for pictures, and clarification on a couple of my comments.  I also included some measurements hoping that may help. One thing I did notice, the Rink Grip on the Ruger measures 41mm at the widest point, while the grip on the Benelli measures 38mm at the same point. That additional 3mm could be the problem. This may be inherent in the design because of the differences of the pistols. Maybe I should have a XS grip on the Ruger?

That's exactly what I see between my Rink Benelli and AW93 grips, and again, a very slight removal of material under the index finger knuckle made all the difference.

Switching to a smaller size will also reduce the volume in your hand. Does it feel big there now?

He also makes "thick" versions (letter "d" at end) which increase volume but also at the thumb web. You might ask if going a size down and adding "thick" would help, but honestly it will probably be better to just get out the rasp on yours.

-TT- wrote:That's exactly what I see between my Rink Benelli and AW93 grips, and again, a very slight removal of material under the index finger knuckle made all the difference.

Switching to a smaller size will also reduce the volume in your hand. Does it feel big there now?

He also makes "thick" versions (letter "d" at end) which increase volume but also at the thumb web. You might ask if going a size down and adding "thick" would help, but honestly it will probably be better to just get out the rasp on yours.

The part that feels "big" is at and forward of the inside part of the hand, opposite of the knuckles (if that makes sense). 

I didn't know what the "d" meant. The part number for my Benelli grip is MP95u SRBOd. The part number for my Ruger grip is MKIII SRBO. So I do not have similar grips in the first place? 

As for removing material, remove starting at the top grip screw and forward?

SRB0d = Small, Righthand, Convex, 0-degree, thick.
SRB0 = same but not "thick".

The difference is the Ruger has a frame, which changes things. I can only guess based on the difference I see in my AW93 grip, but the "thick" grip is generally to make room for longer fingers. Basically it tries to increase the reach by moving the hand back. I originally thought he added material to where the web of the thumb rests, but it seems to me now that it's more material at the back, and a slightly wider area at the top.

The "Convex" geometry is how he defines the bulb that fills the palm. The alternative is "flat". Personally my hand likes convex ("B").

Sounds like you might have a couple of areas to work on. I guess talk more with Thomas.

I'll post a pic of where I worked on mine, but it'll be tomorrow sometime.

Here's what I took away from my AW93 Rink grip to improve my trigger position.

This is an LLB7d: Large, Lefthanded, Convex, 7-degree, thick. I'm right-eye dominant and currently forced to shoot lefty due to a shoulder injury, so I'm using his 7-degree rotated model. This is (hopefully temporarily) replacing the LRB0d, which fits my right hand perfectly. But my left hand sits differently so I had to tweak. My Benelli has the LRB0 (non-"d") and I'm not shooting it for now although I've ordered an LLB7. Having all sorts of fun, as you can maybe tell.

On the AW93 LH one shown, I removed material in two locations:
- under the back corner of the upper overhang, where it pressed down on my thumb and finger bones (yellow mark)
- at the left rear of the thumb web and forefinger knuckle area, where it moved my hand outward and rearward (orange mark)

I only removed a thin bit, maybe a millimeter max. I used a dremel sandpaper drum, and you can see some of the tool marks where I didn't bother to fully smooth it. I oiled with a bit of Watco natural.

Worked well for me!

Thomas Rink replied after viewing the pictures I sent and my further explanations. He pretty much said what I had thought, the difference between the grips is due to the different designs of the pistols, the Ruger having a frame, the Benelli without. Not much he can do, so it's up to me and my trusty wood rasp. I hate messing with those beautiful grips, but looks like I have no choice.

A generic Dremel off Amazon with the wand is pretty darn good for shaping too. The trick is adding stippling back to the part you worked on to get it to blend in.

I have restored stippling with a #0 Phillips hex bit. I hold it lightly and tap it with a tack hammer, walking it around the area I want to re-stipple. Works great.

There are also electric stippling tools you can buy that do the same thing more precisely, but I haven't bothered.

MIKE:

If you are anywhere close to Mt.Vernon, IL, bring it by and I will restore the finish for you at no charge. Always willing to help a competition shooter.

Dick Horton
(618)-244-3389

I too bought small because in the past when I tried ergo grips on my 1911 I thought they were big and my hand is on the borderline. I too thought the grips were big. When you remove volume do very little at a time. I removed some volume from area in the upper part of the back strap and in the area as shown in the pick above. I also added some filler in the area where I felt voids and I am very oppomistic. 

Before fitting I was healing like crazy and now I would say the stability of the grip far outweighs the loss in trigger feel. 

I like slabs but with the Ruger I find finding a consistent grip tough.

I received, installed and yesterday got to test the Rink grips for my Ruger MkIII. Mine are in laminate with the bullseye swept adjustable palm rest

I had the Volquartsen laminated grips on it, which came with an extended bolt release and mag release. The mag release is specific to the Volquartsen grips and let's you still reach the button while holding the gun. The Rink uses the original release and I need to use my left hand to press the mag release (which is fine). The Volquartsen extended bolt release doesn't fit with the Rink grips but fits fine with the stock Ruger part. It's not reachable for me either once the Rink grip is installed (which is fine as well). Once fitted with the new Rink grip and the original bolt release the gun functions as expected.

The fit is spectacular for my hand. With the Volquartsen grips there were a few ways I could place my hand on the gun and the polished laminate meant sweat and needing to keep consciousness of how I held it. The Rink, with the palm rest moved up a bit, locks me in and removes the grip from the list of fundamentals for me to focus on.

Unlike the Volquartsens unfortunately the Rink grips have to be taken off to remove the mainspring assembly. But that material Rink has behind the mainspring is one of their big advantages.

I'm very happy with them and would order again

I've have had eight Rink grips so far, starting with a IZH-46M to replace the protective lumber that pistol ships with. I really like the Rink grips as the wood is good, the oiled finish is easy to maintain and for me Rink gets the shape about 95% for my hand. That being stated, I have taken files, rasps, burrs and dremels to every grip to get the fit dialed in for me. I use a size LRB7 as it is only slightly large in a few areas for me. 

My practice is to shoot a match (or equivalent) to see what area is bothering me, then make small removals of material (1mm) and try again. It is a slow process but the benefit is you can really melt the grip into your hand. 

I had a chance to work with a World Cup shooter on my grip and the first thing he did was make me dry fire for 30 minutes to get my hand in the same state as it would be in competition. He warned not to work with a fresh hand.