Hammerli 208S

I have approximately 9,000 rounds through  my Hammerli 208S.
I field strip it every 500-600 rounds. I have never fully stripped it due to inability to find any source on complete disassembly. Everything works flawlessly so far and the pistol requires no parts to be replaced.
Can someone recommend a qualified gunsmith to strip it and clean/maintain it? 
Thank you.

You might need a hammer spring sometime soon.
I put a LOT more than 9,000 rounds through mine and never did a total disassembly.
I did refresh the moly slide on the sear to hammer interface and of course normal cleaning. Never put anything metal in the barrel and it will last nearly forever. Accuracy was still slowly improving over the years.
Mostly shot Eley, it is pretty clean.
Never sell it. You will regret selling it for the rest of your life.

Did you ever disassemble hammer/sear to molly? How involved is it to change the hammer spring?

Mainspring simple change. Remove grips. Remove the magazine catch which retains the mainspring. It’s under pressure so be careful. I put the pistol in a vise.
Jon

Jon is correct. The name for the "hammer spring" is actually the "Main Spring".
Here is some great information:
https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t9318-hammerli-208-disassembly
http://www.pilkguns.com/edhallhammerli208sca-html/

Neco brand Molly Slide only, accept no substitutes.
I carefully work a tiny bit of Molly Slide on a toothpick down to the hammer/sear junction which is visible with the slide off. I only do that about every 1,000 rounds. I might be over doing it!
Do whatever Ed Hall says, not what i do! His information comes from actual Hammerli factory gunsmiths.

Jon Eulette wrote:Mainspring simple change. Remove grips. Remove the magazine catch which retains the mainspring. It’s under pressure so be careful. I put the pistol in a vise.
Jon

It's under even more pressure if the hammer is cocked.  You might think, "why would the hammer be cocked?" But, if you cycled or removed the slide, it's easy to forget it is.

I have Moly-lubed with the hammer and sear still in the gun, by pulling the sear as far as I could away from the hammer and working moly to the sear tip as mentioned earlier, but I have found it much easier to remove the hammer.  I have never found the sear an easy removal, but for best results, it should be removed as well.  Then you can clean and lube both and their pins.

How often (approximate round count) would you recommend Molly the hammer/sear junction?

Bestdentist99 wrote:How often (approximate round count) would you recommend Molly the hammer/sear junction?

Larry Carter had suggested annually for most competitors and semi-annually for the competitors that trained heavily.  When I was shooting a lot more, I pulled the hammer 4 to 5 times a year and cleaned and applied Moly.

If you're going to disassemble a Hammerli, get a really, really good set of metric punches and a good bench block!  Some of those pins are tight.  Nothing creates a lasting memory as a cheap pin punch also working as a bad engraving tool.   

I used to put extra moly on without disassembly using just a toothpick or other small pin every few months. Wasn't great coverage, but it usually migrated around pretty good.

At minimum, get extra recoil springs and change as needed.  

CR

As CR noted, GOOD punches are a must!  That's actually one reason I was only pulling the hammer and not the sear.  My hammer pin was much easier to r/r than the sear pin.  The block is a great recommendation as well.  The proper direction for the pins is right to left, so that means you have to have a relief area for the slide stop as well as the pins, when you drive the pins out.  The pins do have a small taper on the leading ends.  I always found the firing pin pin the most difficult to remove.  The first strike has to be really determined.

Thank you for great information gentlemen!

I took the grips off, but can’t figure out how to remove the magazine catch. Can you please describe the process?
Hammerli sure is not a 1911. It looks more like a Swiss watch with as many springs and parts. That’s why it is so daunting to disassemble it to most fellow bullseye shooters I know who own one, especially with the lack of any YouTube videos to fall back on.

The catch is caught in the frame by a small hook on which it pivots against the mainspring.  It's easier to remove if you relax the mainspring first, although with enough strength it isn't necessary.

-Make certain the gun is empty.
-Taking the slide off is a plus.
-Lower the hammer.
-Grab the frame with your off hand over the top and thumb into the side cutout for the magazine well.
-Grasp the sides of the catch between the finger and thumb of your strong hand, with the tail of the catch against the base of your index finger.
-Apply pressure straight toward the hammer, compressing the mainspring, until the hook can clear the frame.
-Lift the catch free and release the pressure.

When you replace it, again make sure the hammer is lowered before you proceed.

I have been trying to find the Molly slide mentioned here. Can someone please tell me where I can get this?

hammerli wrote:I have been trying to find the Molly slide mentioned here. Can someone please tell me where I can get this?

https://www.neconos.com/item/MOLY-SLIDE-33

This was the website i find the Neco Moly Slide!!

https://www.larrysguns.com/Products/Neco-Moly-Slide__MS100.aspx

Bob Fleming wrote:https://www.larrysguns.com/Products/Neco-Moly-Slide__MS100.aspx

Has anyone ever used up all of the 1 ounce can and had to order a second can?