Lower needed

I am transitioning from a 1911 + High Standard, to the 1911 and a conversion. I quickly found out in smaller league shoots that I will not have time to swap uppers ( I have only the one gun).  I’d like comments on a couple of options for lowers.

Options for getting the donor lower…

Cheapest complete 1911 to get the donor lower is a RIA. 
Next is a mil-spec Springfield- now called the Defender.
Range Officer for its lower.  
Rock River complete lower (not cataloged but available). Wait time is the same as a complete gun. About the price of two Range Officers.

In any case above that requires it, I will get my local smith to do the trigger.

Is there a market for NIB uppers?

I’m not interested in trying to build a lower.

Lastly I can donate my current lower in which case I’m in the hole the four hundred it cost to make this a two inch gun that has only two thousand rounds through it, and order a complete RR / Baer wad gun.

Other options?

Thanks, Ed

For a donor gun, I think it comes down to grip safety preference. I have a conversion on a Range Officer that I am very happy with, I keep the 45 upper as a "back up" for service pistol. If you like the GI grip safety, I don't see why the defender wouldn't be a good option.

Also Accuracy X makes dedicated lowers at comparable cost and time to the Rock Rivers

While I do have dedicated lowers (SA and Rock River); the issue of not enough time to change over intrigues me.  I have a couple of shooters that do it during our 2700's and it doesn't seem to be a time issue for my match. 

I've done it using a full length guide rod on the .45 top end and the swap over does not take but a minute or less.  Just unscrew the conversion, slide it off and slide the whole .45 top on, hold back and insert the slide stop pin. Just needs a little guidance for the guide rod base / spring to get lined up and you can generally see the barrel link to make sure its in view and didn't get pushed too far out for the slide stop pin to catch. Sometimes a widget stick might be needed to ease the plunger out of the slide stop grove if it gets trapped going in, but that's about it.  

Am I missing something?  Just hate to see someone have to spend money for a minute or two of match time.

CR

In the non-registered matches here Cecil, we shoot 3-4 NMC's.  We go just as fast from "RF go down and post" to "on the line for next NMC slow fire", as you normally do in between stages.  Action never stops.  You are correct in that for normal 2700's you are always given 20-30 minutes between end of 22 and start of CF.

Don't sell the Philippine 45 autos short.  Except for the lack of hammer and sear polishing, I have had excellent service with them. My Marvel conversion sits on an ATI made in the Philippines lower and I have no complaints with it at all.  Like I stated before. The hammer and sear needs some work.

Not an answer to your question, but a two piece guide rod lets you remove / attach the upper in less than a minute. It's not quite as easy as removing a 22 conversion, but close.

1. Loosen the guide rod with an allen wrench
   
2. Push the slide back
   
3. Remove the slide stop
   
4. The top comes off in one piece with the recoil spring captured
   

Reverse the process to put it back on.

Actually, you don't even have to loosen the guide rod.  Just push the slide back to the notch for the slide stop pin.  Push the pin out and grip the slide and wrap you hand around to steady the rod / spring.  It will stay together and re-assembly is just the reverse.  

CR

If you want a complete lower and are willing to send it to a bullseye gunsmith, I just found a few available on Gunbroker right now (NFI):

1. A Turkish Tisas:
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/914311552

2. Another Tisas:
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/914067834

3. Yet one more Tisas (Commander size, stainless):
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/914311809

4. A no-name (Taylor???):
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/914067834

All these appear to come from the same seller. Check with a good gunsmith, who may be able to get these lowers to be good candidates for a conversion.

Good Luck,
Oleg.

Regarding "building a lower", It's not so bad.  Buy a SS lower with checkering and a 250 radius cut.  Add "drop in" parts.  Minimal filing.  Have your smith install the sear/hammer/disconnector.  Or with a little more work and a few files, use gunsmith fit parts and get a better overall "look".  In either case, a sanding block and some 220 grit sand paper will give you a nice looking finish that can be touched up eternally.  

I've told many people, bullseye is unique in that you likely become a master shooter, a master reloader, and a pretty decent gunsmith eventually.

I just bought a used SA milspec to use on a lower. I’ll swap out internals for quality tool steel parts and leave as is for awhile. Eventually I will checker the front strap (skateboard tape for now) and matte blue it to match the upper. I’ll sell the upper on Gunbroker and recoup some cost. Just picked up a low mileage Marvel longslide with Shilen barrel 
Jon

I installed a KC hammer/sear kit in a Range Officer.  Also a Colt sear spring, and regular parts inside the main string house.  The new main/hammer spring is 18 or 19 pounds. Nothing more is needed.
It is a fine 22 lower. 

I have two more ROs.  Both unused or at most a mag or two shot.  I honestly do not recall shooting them.  But dry firing the original trigger parts shows in both a very good crisp trigger that I like a lot.  One of these is semi-sold.  I need to get off my rear and reply to the interested buyer.

[quote="Oleg G"]If you want a complete lower and are willing to send it to a bullseye gunsmith, I just found a few available on Gunbroker right now (NFI):

1. A Turkish Tisas:
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/914311552

2. Another Tisas:
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/914067834

3. Yet one more Tisas (Commander size, stainless):
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/914311809

4. A no-name (Taylor???):
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/914067834

All these appear to come from the same seller. Check with a good gunsmith, who may be able to get these lowers to be good candidates for a conversion.

Good Luck,
Oleg.[/quote]

If you go the low cost route, plan on replacing the hammer, sear, disconnector, springs and pins when you get a trigger job... I did a trigger on a Taurus 1911... once... guy had almost as much in parts and labor as he paid for the pistol...

I made it up to Expert Indoor with a RIA lower and Marvel Unit 1.  Got a fellow shooter to do a trigger job & went to town.  Interestingly Joe Chambers did a recent review of the RIA 1911 and was very impressed with the measurements.  It was much better than many "Custom" guns in the $3-5K range.