Anyone ever practiced this method of sighting and aiming?

It’s not Bullseye but I wonder if anyone would anyone care to comment on this method. Firstly, I’m new to .22 rimfire pistol. I bought a Ruger IV Target pistol and entered Slowfire Pistol at 25 yards. It’s difficult. 

So while shooting at the range, I remembered something from years ago. We were shooting paint cans in the hills above San Francisco. Some clays had been balanced in sticks. When the clays had been shot I suggested shooting the sticks. The guy who owned the guns laughed but said it might be possible if I put the front sight on the stick and let the gun come down along the length of it and in doing so, take the shot. It worked, the stick broke and we all laughed and went home. Does anyone practice this method, is it a thing in 25 yard pistol shooting?

Yeah, I used to do it when I was a kid proving to other kids who was the best shot. I guess I had a pretty good horizontal hold, so if i aligned myself vertically with the stick/branch I could cut it. I don't believe it has any value as a Bullseye training aid.
  I think the last time I did it was 1961.  Precision Pistol ( Bullseye ) is a lot more difficult.

Not exactly the same thing, but I have done some drills, dry firing on vertical and horizontal lines. It was something more commonly recommended 20 years ago. It was not a bad exercise but I didn't think it helped any more than an equal time spent dry firing on regular or blank targets.

I believe this indeed is the prevailing approach (at least the local masters I watch).  You raise the pistol above the black, centered horizontally, and keeping the horizontal position static slowly lower the sight to your point of aim. The only difference here is that the bullseye is a thumbnails width tall, not a few feet like your sticks.

We are better at dynamic things than static.  If we could time things correctly, we could use such a method with a point target such as a bullseye.  The difference is that while you are traveling along the stick (or horizontal/vertical line), the shot can go off anywhere along it and succeed.  But, when you try to add in the timing of having the shot occur at an exact (or close) point on the stick/line, you start adding in a factor that the conscious wants to control and it gets in the way.

The closest that we get to this is sustained fire, where we start the trigger on the way into the black, with the intention of having the shot happen as we arrive.  Incidentally, this works for slow fire also, but most shooters won't start the trigger until they arrive.

Years ago we had a pie pan sized dinger at 100yards.  With my High Standard 106 Trophy I would align my sights then raise the sight from 6 to 12 on the dinger.  As soon as the front sight covered the dinger I fired.  Hit it every time.

I think I will continue using this method and see if it gives some results. Moving closer also might build confidence because 25yards is long.

I recall some advice to dryfire separately at a vertical line or a horizontal line.  Black tape on the wall? 
Maybe even shoot the line on a reversed target.

25 yards is long?  Please take that thought away if you can. It doesn't matter the distance to the target area.  That distance only amplifies the initial error(s) introduced during the shot process. 

The only length that matters is the distance from the front sight to rear sight.  That distance influences everything about where the projectile lands.  It's not the "wobble" that matters, but changing the "angle" of the bore line from the intended target that creates the most havoc for precision shooting. 

Using different methods to approach the target area can work, IF they reduce the introduction of additional angular displacement of the bore line from the intended path.  Approaching the target area  from different points, keeping the dot centered in the tube, keeping the front sight centered in the rear are all methods of reducing additional angular displacement during the shot process.

See Jack H's post above.  The vertical / horizonal line training can help one see the deviation of the gun from its intended angular orientation.  

Or to put it in simple terms; work on keeping the gun pointed straight at the target area throughout the process, and don't worry about the wobble around the target area.

Great advice CR10X, “it’s the distance between the front and rear sight.”

Years ago, Wobble was the front sight moving in the rear notch.  Never a thought on the target. 

Today, not the same......

25 yards is long??? 50 yards is slow fire! Years ago I'm told the Service pistol match was 75 yards slow fire and 50 yards Time and Rapid! That will definitely separate the men from the boys!!

Jack H wrote:Years ago we had a pie pan sized dinger at 100yards.  With my High Standard 106 Trophy I would align my sights then raise the sight from 6 to 12 on the dinger.  As soon as the front sight covered the dinger I fired.  Hit it every time.

did that years ago at 200 with a Marlin 39a

8x11 piece of steel, 

get a good 6 oclock hold,  raise it till the steel disappeared behind the front sight base and pew, 

follow thru was important, seemed like forever till that 22lr smacked the steel