Trimming 32 ACP

Good morning. I have been mainly a rifle competitor, but slowly getting more interested in pistol shooting and bought a Pardini 32 ACP with some Starline brass. I have plenty of experience reloading for rifle, but not much pistol. The new Starline is right between the trim to length and max length. If this was rifle brass, I wouldn’t trim to “trim length” because the brass will shrink after first firing, then it would be under length. I guess what I am asking, do you recommend trimming it to “trim length”, or leave it a little over?  Also, sized brass won’t fit trimmer pilot?  Should I expand before trimming or just sand down pilot diameter?  Thanks for any help in advance.  (I tried search and couldn’t really find what I was looking for.)

I know absoluetly nothing about 32 acp except I think it is a straight wall case.  Straight wall cases tend to get shorter with firing so I don't think you need to waste your time trimming to length unless they are too long to chamber.
Phil

No one I know of trims pistol cases. It is widely considered irrelevant for pistol. As much as I load if I had to trim them, I might not keep shooting this sport.

In a word No! Do not trim your brass.  It will likely never require trimming for the reasons previously described being a “straight wall” case.  The 32s (ACP and S&W Long) are finicky enough to load without adding the complexity of trimming.

Okay, glad I asked.  Guess I am still in rifle mode.  Hope to load up a few tonight or tomorrow and get started. Thanks.

Rifle mode…. That’s a common problem when rifle shooters start loading pistol target ammo.  One of the common problems is a pre-occupation with precision (powder charge, bullet jump, crimping diameter….)  So long as the ammo is loaded with good components, powder selection and charge gives the target velocity, and the ammo is assembled to give reliability in functioning it’s as good as you need.  Target pistols aren’t bench rifles nor are they even like a service rifle.  To learn to shoot a pistol you need to make a LOT of good quality ammo.  Think in THOUSANDS of rounds not hundreds.

Long line wadcutters (32 and 38) have entered the conversation. 32 SWL in particular is very specific about what will work at the long line.
Granted - this is a very niche subject and for the vast (and sane) majority of pistol shooters is a total irrelevance. For your normal bullseye pistol, assuming the barrel is good then the most important thing is the trigger and how you operate it.

I trim pistol brass, but only 38 Special.

I have a bunch from my Dad that sorted out into 3 piles of varying length. So I trimmed each batch with .010 increments between them, and made spacers for my seating die so they all seat and crimp the same. The spacers took less time than trimming .020 off the longer ones. They're done, and will likely never be trimmed again. Maybe never even be fired more than once.

They're the same vintage as his K-38. If they weren't from the old red pipe tobacco can, and brittle plastic 'candied fruit' containers that sat in the garage cabinet for 40 years, I wouldn't have bothered.

I kinda remember way back when I was a kid, 'adjusting' the seating die for every rd to get a consistent 'bump' when they crimped. Now I know why.

Don’t do it! No need!

James Hensler wrote:Don’t do it! No need!

Hey what are you doing here, thought you traded us in for Mopars? 
Jon

Wobbley wrote:Rifle mode…. That’s a common problem when rifle shooters start loading pistol target ammo.  One of the common problems is a pre-occupation with precision (powder charge, bullet jump, crimping diameter….)  So long as the ammo is loaded with good components, powder selection and charge gives the target velocity, and the ammo is assembled to give reliability in functioning it’s as good as you need.  Target pistols aren’t bench rifles nor are they even like a service rifle.  To learn to shoot a pistol you need to make a LOT of good quality ammo.  Think in THOUSANDS of rounds not hundreds.

Haha, yep, sounds like me. I am probably giving crimp too much thought also.

Thanks everyone. Seem to have dies set up correctly and made a few dummy cases. Seems to be good, so going to load with powder and primers now and see how they shoot. Glad didn’t have to trim. I have a Giraud for rifle brass, but don’t think it works for straight walled brass.

Wobbley wrote:Rifle mode…. That’s a common problem when rifle shooters start loading pistol target ammo.  One of the common problems is a pre-occupation with precision (powder charge, bullet jump, crimping diameter….)  So long as the ammo is loaded with good components, powder selection and charge gives the target velocity, and the ammo is assembled to give reliability in functioning it’s as good as you need.  Target pistols aren’t bench rifles nor are they even like a service rifle.  To learn to shoot a pistol you need to make a LOT of good quality ammo.  Think in THOUSANDS of rounds not hundreds.

For a rifle shooter to learn how to shoot one-handed pistol, they need to learn how to squeeze the trigger uninterruptedly through movement.

Full stop.

john bickar wrote:

Wobbley wrote:Rifle mode…. That’s a common problem when rifle shooters start loading pistol target ammo.  One of the common problems is a pre-occupation with precision (powder charge, bullet jump, crimping diameter….)  So long as the ammo is loaded with good components, powder selection and charge gives the target velocity, and the ammo is assembled to give reliability in functioning it’s as good as you need.  Target pistols aren’t bench rifles nor are they even like a service rifle.  To learn to shoot a pistol you need to make a LOT of good quality ammo.  Think in THOUSANDS of rounds not hundreds.

For a rifle shooter to learn how to shoot one-handed pistol, they need to learn how to squeeze the trigger uninterruptedly through movement.

Full stop.

Don’t talk about rifle gives him flash backs

1911a145 wrote:Don’t talk about rifle gives him flash backs

That's enough out of you. Shouldn't you be plugging the white wire into the black wire somewhere?

And if not, picking up my black-striped brass for me. Damn ingrates...

Jon Eulette wrote:

James Hensler wrote:Don’t do it! No need!

Hey what are you doing here, thought you traded us in for Mopars? 
Jon

Man I love my Hemi’s 

A little update 

I have found a small group of shooters on the west side of Indy and have been shooting once a week with them! Boy it’s not like riding a bike for me! My wobble is the side of the building! Lol

Finally shot my first loads for it, and things went pretty good.  Thanks for help.  Only had enough rounds to test function and get a quick 25 yard zero (irons). Shot it just as good as my 22, which I was surprised at. I loaded up some more and and got a Matchdot to put on it.  I have been told to not mount it on rail, but remove the front sight and mount on barrel. Don’t have a problem with this, as I don’t see me shooting it much without a red dot. I assume the rings that came with it are fine?  There is no torque recommendation In instructions. What do most people torque to?  Thanks.

Shootin wrote:Finally shot my first loads for it, and things went pretty good.  Thanks for help.  Only had enough rounds to test function and get a quick 25 yard zero (irons). Shot it just as good as my 22, which I was surprised at. I loaded up some more and and got a Matchdot to put on it.  I have been told to not mount it on rail, but remove the front sight and mount on barrel. Don’t have a problem with this, as I don’t see me shooting it much without a red dot. I assume the rings that came with it are fine?  There is no torque recommendation In instructions. What do most people torque to?  Thanks.

Check the bottom of the rings to see if they have been milled. If they have been the paint is probably gone. I have used Pardini rings since day one and never had an issue coming loose or moving! I tighten mine until I farted. If it’s a dry one you are golden but if it’s a wet one you over tightened it a bit!

James Hensler wrote:

Shootin wrote:Finally shot my first loads for it, and things went pretty good.  Thanks for help.  Only had enough rounds to test function and get a quick 25 yard zero (irons). Shot it just as good as my 22, which I was surprised at. I loaded up some more and and got a Matchdot to put on it.  I have been told to not mount it on rail, but remove the front sight and mount on barrel. Don’t have a problem with this, as I don’t see me shooting it much without a red dot. I assume the rings that came with it are fine?  There is no torque recommendation In instructions. What do most people torque to?  Thanks.

Check the bottom of the rings to see if they have been milled. If they have been the paint is probably gone. I have used Pardini rings since day one and never had an issue coming loose or moving! I tighten mine until I farted. If it’s a dry one you are golden but if it’s a wet one you over tightened it a bit!

Haha. Haven’t tightened that hard yet.  I guess I was asking more about the torque around the Matchdot tube.  These aren’t rings for the milled receiver, but rings that came with the Matchdot that I will put on the slots cut in the barrel shroud.  If I put both rings on the front part of the tube, looks like one ring will be overtop glass lens.  Don’t want to break it. 
BTW, your touted Hornady XTP load seems to work very well in mine also.

The instructions say to tighten the lower screws first that clamp to the rail. They need to be tight! Then lightly tighten the upper screws that clamp the Ultradot.