1911 Slide dragging

by Bestdentist99 Tue Nov 21, 2023 7:33 am

I’m having an issue with my 1911 custom 45 built by a well-known gunsmith with burnt-on carbon building up on the flat part of the frame right above the feeding ramp and on both rails directly to the side after about 100-125 rounds to a point where the slide starts dragging and causing a spent casing not to eject properly or the slide staying slightly out of battery.
I need to field strip it and with a wooden stick dipped in Hoppes scrape off the crud to continue a 2700 match, because it doesn’t make it through 180 rounds.
It used to take more rounds before cleaning, but now it doesn’t make it through the match.
I use 4.0 grains of WST powder under Zero 185 SWC lead bullets for my reloads. Prior to this I used 4.4 grains of Bullseye powder and 160 gr lead bullets with similar results.
I used no lubricants on these areas, then I tried very, very lightly lubricating the rails and the area of build-up with FP-10 oil, then a very, very light coating of grease, to no avail.
Can you suggest a fix for this issue?
Otherwise the gun is extremely accurate and when clean functions flawlessly for about 100-125 rounds.
Thank you for your input.

by RoyDean Tue Nov 21, 2023 7:55 am

by PMcfall Tue Nov 21, 2023 9:02 am

RoyDean wrote:CLP

and lots of it!!!
Phil

by BE Mike Tue Nov 21, 2023 9:11 am

The grease isn't going to help and it may actually be part of the problem. The FP-10 is excellent. When you clean it next time, you might want to try some Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner to make sure you are getting down to the bare metal. After that, lubricate liberally with the FP-10 only. At the other end, you might want to try a powder that is super clean burning, like Alliant e3 or some other, but I have experience with e3.

by SteveT Tue Nov 21, 2023 9:17 am

Do you put a drop of oil in the rails before a match? between 900's?

by JRV Tue Nov 21, 2023 9:23 am

Traditional oil will slow the accumulation of fouling and soot/carbon. CLP, Hoppe’s Lubricating Oil, etc… nothing fancy, just something that can keep those surfaces wet and help small particulates flow out of the system. Use a lot. Wet guns run.

I also found that, with light loads, I get much more soot and carbon from the “slower” powders. Light loads with faster powders like N310 and Clays seem to keep my gun (and brass) cleaner. I am assuming that the faster powders get up to their operating pressures faster, causing a better seal with the brass.

by Bestdentist99 Tue Nov 21, 2023 9:33 am

I tried not to use a lot of oil to avoid crud mixing with it and making the problem worse. For that reason I don’t put oil on the rails between matches. I only switched to grease to see if it would work better tan oil, but it doesn’t.
Do you find that keeping it wet works better?

by Bestdentist99 Tue Nov 21, 2023 9:37 am

I know that the last statement will generate some responses, but we are talking about guns here, fellas.

by RoyDean Tue Nov 21, 2023 9:42 am

CLP

I know. Broken record. But some folks won't listen!

by JRV Tue Nov 21, 2023 9:58 am

Crud will do two things: stay where it is, or get carried out in a suspension. Oil does not make the problem worse. The absence of oil does.

by SteveT Tue Nov 21, 2023 10:07 am

Bestdentist99 wrote:Do you find that keeping it wet works better?

I'm definitely of the belief that for the 1911, wetter is better. I've never experienced or even heard of this problem except after 1000 rds or more... then the gun can get gunked up in lots of places. The consequence of too much oil is getting spots on my arm and shirt, whereas too little oil can cause wear, galling and seizing.

by chiz1180 Tue Nov 21, 2023 10:09 am

Keep the rails wet, you don't need to drown them in oil, a drop on each rail works well. I use a needle oiler. Grease is a bad idea on the rails at it holds contaminates in suspension.

Also make sure you have complete combustion of your ammo.

by DA/SA Tue Nov 21, 2023 11:52 am

More oil, tighter crimp.

Has anyone mentioned CLP?

by BE Mike Tue Nov 21, 2023 1:11 pm

I recon that this is what the OP is using for the wise acres here! Very Happy

https://shooters-choice.com/fp-10-lubricant-elite-clp/

by RodJ Tue Nov 21, 2023 3:48 pm

I keep a little plastic bottle with a needle oiler in my pistol case. Before every shooting session I put a good drop of clp as follows:

http://www.bullseyepistol.com/oiling.htm

The drops at the back of the hood work their way down to your area of concern. I’ll also oil frame below the link pin after cleaning.

by bruce martindale Tue Nov 21, 2023 4:56 pm

Like in my book: Oil, supplier of your choice, on the left and right side of the hood area and at the forward junction of barrel and slide. I’m liking Mobil 1 Synthetic; slippery as snot. Other stuff works too like machine oil with STP. It runs down into that saddle area.

by Steve in MI Tue Nov 21, 2023 5:23 pm

+1 on Mobil 1.

I always thought the detergent in the oil helped keep the carbon from caking up as hard. But might just be my imagination (have a pretty good one I have been told 1911 Slide dragging 1f603

).

by Cmysix Tue Nov 21, 2023 6:12 pm

Brian Eno's Slide glide. Draggin my slide Draggin my slide BEEP BEEP.

by rrampe Tue Nov 21, 2023 9:01 pm

With .45 I always oil between every target, On the top of the barrel so it runs down under the barrel on to the frame to keep the crud from building up and also on the front of the barrel to keep the bushing lubricated.
Your pistol is a finely tuned machine just like an engine, oil is your friend. Lack of oil will cause problems and shorten the life of your expensive gun. I also pull a boresnake through at the same time. Then I will give it a complete cleaning between CF and .45
For whatever its worth I just use Mobil 1 with some ATF added to it.

Ron

by Kp321 Tue Nov 21, 2023 10:28 pm

I use Royal Purple Syntech for my go to lube. Mobil 1 is probably the same thing except for the color but I used to get Royal Purple sample bottles at industrial trade shows so the price was right. The synthetic lubes stay the same viscosity no matter what the temperature and do a remarkable job of keeping the crud soft and easily wiped off.

by bruce martindale Wed Nov 22, 2023 9:37 am

Sounds like a Tom Petty song…Stop draggin my sliiiide ah-round…

by BE Mike Wed Nov 22, 2023 10:18 am

No love for WD-40? 1911 Slide dragging 2309170423

by jglenn21 Wed Nov 22, 2023 10:53 am

Nothing wrong with using the proper grease on a 1911..especially the rails and lower / upper lugs. Trick is to use a very light grease such as a NLGI - 0. I've used Lubriplate's SFL 0 for years on pistol rails. Also their firearms grease is very good. Comes in synthetic and mineral base products. Their SFL gun grease is an enhanced version of SFL 0 while the FMO is the mineral base.

To the OP, I run the same load with a 180 swc and gave never had your issue. Lube the c**p out of your rails

by Cmysix Wed Nov 22, 2023 11:01 am

Brian Eno's Slide Glide has you apply it and then wipe it off, it is very slippery! put it on my IDPA gun (very tight) 3000 rounds later nothing slowing it down

by mbmshooter Wed Nov 22, 2023 12:11 pm

Bestdentist99 wrote:I’m having an issue with my 1911 custom 45 built by a well-known gunsmith with burnt-on carbon building up on the flat part of the frame right above the feeding ramp and on both rails directly to the side after about 100-125 rounds to a point where the slide starts dragging and causing a spent casing not to eject properly or the slide staying slightly out of battery.
I need to field strip it and with a wooden stick dipped in Hoppes scrape off the crud to continue a 2700 match, because it doesn’t make it through 180 rounds.
It used to take more rounds before cleaning, but now it doesn’t make it through the match.
I use 4.0 grains of WST powder under Zero 185 SWC lead bullets for my reloads. Prior to this I used 4.4 grains of Bullseye powder and 160 gr lead bullets with similar results.
I used no lubricants on these areas, then I tried very, very lightly lubricating the rails and the area of build-up with FP-10 oil, then a very, very light coating of grease, to no avail.
Can you suggest a fix for this issue?
Otherwise the gun is extremely accurate and when clean functions flawlessly for about 100-125 rounds.
Thank you for your input.

I see quite a few responses to your question all of which suggest you USE OIL! Each seems to have their pet lubricant but ALL use
oil and most use LOTS of it.
I agree that your expensive pistol is a precision piece of equipment and requires proper lubrication. Your car requires 4 to 6 quarts
of oil to ensure all moving parts have a thin film of oil on them to minimize/prevent friction and wear AND to flush contamination
away from these parts.

Liberal use of oil on your pistol does the same job AND will keep the crud from accumulating and hardening. Try it, you'll like it!

Mike

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