slide mount ???

Ive got my clark slide mount in hand.....appointment made with smith for next thursday......Problem....My RO has adjustable sights , I dont think its a good Idea to drill where the rear sight used to be......So is 3 screws enough to secure the mount to the slide with a red dot ......I will need to shorten the mount and mill a slot for the rear scope ring .....but is 3 screws enough to hold the mount to the slide without shooting loose.....??? My theoy is to leave the rear sight on and shorten the mount and mill a slot for the front sight......but this will mean looseing 1 of the screws in the mount ......will this be a problem....

It's no problem. I use blue locktite on the screws. Look at mine:

I have my rear sight off now ....I think I will put it back on and just shorten the rail.....I will also have to add a notch for the ring....and mill for the front sight as you did....

People also recommend ditching the included ultradot mounting rings and getting the Weaver Optics' Detachable Top-mount mounting rings (low).

http://www.weaveroptics.com/rings_bases/rings/detachable_top_mount/default.aspx

I don't like em. The hook side isn't a positive connection. It can slide fore and aft during recoil, and Ive seen one move 0 after recoil. I like the rings that came with the UD. Simple, lightweight, and don't lose 0. I've known 2 people who threw those weaver's in the garbage with the same problem.

Rob Kovach wrote:I don't like em. The hook side isn't a positive
connection. It can slide fore and aft during recoil, and Ive seen one
move 0 after recoil. I like the rings that came with the UD. Simple,
lightweight, and don't lose 0. I've known 2 people who threw those
weaver's in the garbage with the same problem.

Well, lots of people would disagree with you as well.

I've had no problems with zero-shift or loosening. I know Joe Chambers recommends the Weaver rings too.

there is no perfect mount unless you weld the scope to the slide =)

We'll since we are talking about rails in this thread, let's stop arguing about rings. If you want to do that, start a new thread.

Since a mount is of little use without rings, i will add this here: The weaver rings you want are product # 49046 1'' medium Quad Lock, they hold the dot tight with 2 allen head screws per side, plus they are always in stock at walmart for 9.95. The rings that come with the UD work great on the 22's, but can sometimes get loose on a 45 with a slide mount. I use these weavers on every gun and have never had a problem.

well goin the the smith in the morning to have the clark rail installed...I have choosen to leave on the adjustable rear sight and just shorten the rail and I will as well have him mill a slot for the front sight....I'm really hopeing the dot helps....for some reason I'm haveing a hard time with the open sights on THe RO .....I dont seem to have much trouble with the VQ sight I put on my MKIII or the open sights on my IZH but the rear sight on the RO seems to have a smaller slot or something I have a hard time focusing the front sight thru it ....But a dot is still the way to go so it's no big deal ....I will for sure keep those weaver quad lock rings in mind....just in case the stock rings dont work well ......

Paper-Puncher wrote:well goin the the smith in the morning to have the clark rail installed.....I will for sure keep those weaver quad lock rings in mind....just in case the stock rings dont work well ......

There is no reason your smith cannot add another screw or "two".. Three, is pushing it with #6 screws..remember, everytime the slides stop in recoil, the inertia stored in the sighting system is transferred to the screws.. I always use five # 8 X 40 with an Al Marvel rib and Weaver low mounts. Two screws deep over the firing pin, and three equally spaced from in front of the top locking lugs and the muzzle. This is a very reliable set up with the one inch Ultra Dot .
Jerry

Jerry,

Very glad you Joined us here, your experience and knowledge are a welcomed asset to the forum.

Joe Fobes

Ask your gunsmith if drilling at or near the rear sight will interfer with the firing pin safety.

I don't know about a firing pin safety on a 1911. What is that?

Kimber Series II 1911s have a firing pin safety that is activated by the grip safety, rather than by the trigger as was done on series 80 Colts. I've been told by the folks at Clark Custom Guns that drilling and taping for the rear mounting screw is somewhat critical and could interfer with the pin function. Give Clark a call and ask. I've found them to be very willing to answer my questions.

I'm not going to worry about it. No Series 80's in my collection and after Paper-Puncher's problems with Kimber, I won't ever own one of those either.

Jumping in here a bit late, sorry! Just a note on using 3 vs 4 screws. When I had the Clark mount installed I didn't know whether to get the one with tuner (3 screws) or without (4 screws) and either didn't have pictures to look at or didn't look (can't remember), so I got the one with tuner (and 3 screws). Fast forward 11 years, I can document over 40,000 rounds through this slide mount system and have never had a screw break or strip. 3/4 of those rounds are short line loads of 3.5-3.8 gr Clays with a 196 gr H&G 130. The rest have been 4.4 gr WST with a 210 gr H&G 68. And, it's still the 3 original screws (now I've gone and jinxed myself).

I took it off and put on a Bomar rib several years ago for one summer, I did use red loctite on the screws and between the base & slide when I reinstalled the Clark base.

I wouldn't let it worry me as long as your gunsmith is using good taps and cleans everything before installation.

FWIW

I cut my Clark mount to fit between the sights and it still has the four original screws.