Ruger Mark III for .22 EIC

I'm trying to start shooting .22 EIC matches.  I got this beater HS Victor several months ago:
https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t5249-hs-victor-good-deal
I can see the potential in this gun, and can see why people love them, but I simply cannot get it to run reliably.  Tried different mags, done all the tweaks, different ammo, etc., but it won't do right now for competition.  Rarely get a mag through it without problems.  So the first question is: Who is a good gunsmith that knows their way around a HS Victor?

I also have a new Mark III Competition slab-side.  If I send it to Volquartsen and let them install their pistol competition kit and TL rear sight will that get me down the road for a while in EIC matches?

Thanks,

Do not use the Voquartsen stuff. Have a BE smith use Clark steel trigger and do trigger job. It'll be perfect. Volquartsen isn't a BE smith.......if you want BE quality trigger job use BE smith.
Jon

Jon Eulette wrote:Do not use the Voquartsen stuff. Have a BE smith use Clark steel trigger and do trigger job. It'll be perfect. Volquartsen isn't a BE smith.......if you want BE quality trigger job use BE smith.
Jon

+1.

Before I ever shot or got interested in bullseye I bought some VQ parts for my MKIII Target to see if I could get a nicer trigger. It dropped down to 1.75 pounds or so. Useless for bullseye. I modified some things and got it to a legal 2.25 pound trigger pull. Some VQ parts and some stock but it took some work. Not terribly complicated but for a newbie it took me a while. Trial and error. Save your money. Send it to a smith.

 But if you're curious just get the sear and rigger. That ought to be enough to improve things greatly. I can't say where your poundage will be at but you save a lot of money by not buying all the unnecessary parts.

I have a Stainless Steel MkIII Target that shoots well but definitely feels more Chrome Vanadium brand than Snap-On. Someday I will go through all the ignition components and make the sear, hammer and trigger actually fit their pins so they all move in one direction only. Getting all the slop removed will make it nicer to shoot. I removed all of the Volquartsen parts I had put in except the trigger since I liked the longer trigger reach of the VQ trigger. Now I need to bush the trigger and other parts.

The Ruger is more closely related to my Arrow JT-21 stapler than to my other firearms.

By the way, a trigger blast shield helps keep the action from getting gritty.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494429

You can actually hone the sear yourself, then install a Clark trigger and bushing. The bushing is a press fit and best method I've found is to get the blued bushing and gradually sand off the blueing until the bushing is a tight fit. There's some other work that can be done to smooth up the internal parts for a smoother action.  Somewhere I have a PDF on how to shim up the trigger to remove any lateral slop.  If I find it I'll post it here.

Trigger shims help but I think bushings or oversize pins would be best. The shims take tales of re-assembling Ruger Mark pistols to higher level. Using a punch as a carpenter's peg or alignment pin helps.

http://triggershims.com/ruger_mark_pistol.html

Sa-tevp wrote:Trigger shims help but I think bushings or oversize pins would be best. The shims take tales of re-assembling Ruger Mark pistols to higher level. Using a punch as a carpenter's peg or alignment pin helps.

http://triggershims.com/ruger_mark_pistol.html

I made my own shims long before they were available commercially.  If you can find one, a two part Marvel trigger is an excellent choice, but must be fit to the specific gun. It gives fore and aft adjustment as well as a trigger stop.  As for completely field stripping a Ruger, it gets easier after you done it a couple hundred times. The single biggest improvement for the money is the Clark bushing.

so what's the problem with your Victor......

most issues are resolved by tuning the mags( a leaned expertise) but also the extractor can be a problem are especially for the victor...

What's the problem with my Victor?

The magazines aren't tuned, amongst other things.

That's the problem. 

I can tune those mags for you, or help you figure it out.

608-445-6816

The best trigger I ever felt on any pistol was on a Ruger MKII done by Clark Custom. This was many years ago, probably in the mid 90's. I don't know if they can still do that high quality of work.

A little tough on a MKIII. Thousands of good MKIIs out there..looking for a new home..Seldom get a Ruger in, but I absolutely refuse the IIIs ..

Jerry Keefer wrote:A little tough on a MKIII. Thousands of good MKIIs out there..looking for a new home..Seldom get a Ruger in, but I absolutely refuse the IIIs ..

I agree on the MK II.  I own several of the MK II target models and they shoot well enough, with some work, to go to High Master. I've found that the MK II will group a little better with ammo that is slightly faster than CCI Std Vel.

not hard to tune them

http://highstandardpartsonline.com/High%20Standard%20Magazine%20Adjustments%20Models102-107%20PTS1.pdf

getting a good tool to adjust the lips helps..

http://highstandardpartsonline.com/magazine-adjustment-tool-for-high-standard-22-cal-p-13.html

also the make of magazine matters... only use HS mags.. No triple Ks.

the older mags are best but expensive to acquire. the newer HS mags from Brownells work fairly well and keep their adjustments. it's a matter of life with the HS pistols

BE Mike wrote:The best trigger I ever felt on any pistol was on a Ruger MKII 

+1 on that Mike. 

Jon Eulette did a Clark trigger job on my MKII and its the best trigger I've ever felt too.

igolfat8 wrote:

BE Mike wrote:The best trigger I ever felt on any pistol was on a Ruger MKII 

+1 on that Mike. 

Jon Eulette did a Clark trigger job on my MKII and its the best trigger I've ever felt too

Twice I had the opportunity to buy Jim Clark, Sr built MK II's and both had triggers equal to or better than some of the more expensive rimfire pistols.  I regret passing on both pistols.

If I read somewhere the CMP had relaxed the magazine disconnect requirement, what is the difference between the MK II and MK III if you use the MKII trigger group...

james r chapman wrote:If I read somewhere the CMP had relaxed the magazine disconnect requirement, what is the difference between the MK II and MK III if you use the MKII trigger group...

Where did you see that?  Rule 6.2.1 specifically says " All standard safety features must remain in place and operate properly."

CMP didn't relax the mag safety rule but NRA did. Mag disconnect can be deleted for NRA.

I haven't parsed through the CMP rules to see if that matters for CMP.

Rob Kovach wrote:CMP didn't relax the mag safety rule but NRA did. Mag disconnect can be deleted for NRA.

I haven't parsed through the CMP rules to see if that matters for CMP.

Rob, where did you see that?  3.7 is not a model of grammatical clarity.

Richard, work your way through this.  https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t5509-updated-rules-are-available-2016?highlight=rules   It does sort of get off the subject but that's where it's coming from.

OldMaster66 wrote:Richard, work your way through this.  https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t5509-updated-rules-are-available-2016?highlight=rules   It does sort of get off the subject but that's where it's coming from.

  I don't think 3.7.4 is an exclusive list; it says "Internal safeties such as..."

  I would get a written ruling from the Protest Committee before risking a DQ.

A Ruger Mk3 is certainly capable of earning points. 22 EICs are very much about how you manage your nerves executing the raise at 25.