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Parts for 208’s in general are expensive and if you do not know what you are doing it is very easy to break something. Personally wouldn’t mess with it. If you want a 1-1/2lb trigger I would look for something else. Just because you “can”doesn’t mean you should.

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Here you go. Take it slow and easy, small steps.

http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/sph208s.htm

The 208s has lots of adjustments in different locations and they don't seem to exactly match the text on the provided page.

The first stage weight is adjusted by the tiny Allen screw behind the trigger (#3 in the diagram). This does adjust the takeup weight slightly, but its design is to adjust the first stage weight.

The second stage weight is adjusted by the Allen wrench (#1 in the diagram) shown with the combi-tool (#2 in the diagram).  The Allen screw is within the second stage location adjustment that the long blade of the combi-tool is used for.

The location of the trigger on its rail also affects the weight, but not by very much.

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SilentAssassin wrote:Which means you don't know how. Not the answer I was looking for.
The Hammerli 208 was sold in its day as a handgun with an adjustable trigger. Meaning the trigger can be adjusted for weight of pull on the second stage.
I bought this gun.......I've gotten this far into it ....I am not going looking for something else.......and I want it the way I want it.
We can talk about what I should and shouldn't do After, I get it the way I want it.
I am not new at working on guns/trigger/ engagement surfaces.


Nevermind.............forget I posted this thread.
I'll figure it out myself.

I've been a member of this forum for seven years and many times I've sought advice from gun sages on this forum. I've found that members of this forum will go out of their way to help another member with questions or problems and there probably has not been a gun problem or issue that someone on this forum hasn't faced or solved. So, as some well-intentioned advice to a "Newbie", when you ask for advice on this forum and you get it, but it may not be the answer you were looking for, just thank them and move on.
Too much caffeine?

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I gave it a good scrubbing, careful not to get any oils on the engaging surfaces. of the hammer and sear.

 "Mr. Carter emphasized that NO chemicals or cleaners should be used for any portion of the cleaning of the 208s pistol. He further emphasized that oil must NOT be allowed into the hammer/sear region as this will wash away the special Moly lubrication, which will cause sear wear. The detailed care may be necessary if any contaminants enter the hammer/sear region or if the first stage of the trigger starts feeling as though it drags. Basic cleaning should be done after each match." 

Please be sure to read the instructions about lubing the sear / hammer surfaces with moly-lube or that really good trigger feel will not last very long.  If you cleaned off the Moly-lube, it will need to be replaced.  Look for the "crosshatched" areas on the sear.  If you have detailed stripped to that point, it's a good time to re-apply. A lot of people have neglected this and the sears will begin feel gritty and wear. 

CR

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SilentAssassin,
Your “go ahead and get it done no matter what” and “no bullshit” attitude is what makes this country the best in the world! We need more people like you. Your confidence is inspiring.
I own a Hammerli 208 and the 208S and they are the best 22 pistols I’ve ever shot. Unfortunately, they, like a Swiss watch, are extremely complicated mechanically (in my view). 
The best I’ve ever done in cleaning it is to take the slide and grips off (field strip). I bet this goes for most Hammerli owners out there.
I’ve searched all over the internet, searched on YouTube and every source I could find, but there’s nothing out there to show a detailed, complete strip on the pistol. The instruction manual that came with the pistol is useless.
You can do world of good and be a hero to the vast majority of Hammerli owners out there and be forever thanked if you could post a video on stripping the pistol on YouTube. I really mean it. 
God Bless America!

If that is powder or powder in a light oil type substance, it may not be the best bet.

You want the grease so it can stick to the sear / hammer surface.  I have a ounce vial that's lasted about 20 years. 

CR

This is the only stuff Larry Carter used: https://www.neconos.com/item/MOLY-SLIDE-33