I could use some advice for Hammerli 215s

My outer slotted screw is very worn, the one for adjusting the  roll or wall forthe 2nd stage. First I want to replace it, is this as easy as unscrewing it and replacing the whole plunger and all at once?
 I didn't get a tool kit with the pistol when I bought it, so I need to get a slotted driver for it also.
 Does any body have one, do you make your own?
Stan

I'll be doing the same replacement on myb208s, since the plunger is tired on it. I made a to-fit screwdriver by sanding a 1/4" driver bit on the belt sander.

You should be able to bottom out the plunger screw (or maybe remove the set of screw, spring and plunger) and then use an appropriately sized blade for the outer screw.  No need for a slotted driver if you do that.

Ed Hall wrote:You should be able to bottom out the plunger screw (or maybe remove the set of screw, spring and plunger) and then use an appropriately sized blade for the outer screw.  No need for a slotted driver if you do that.

 Ed, I can then put new slotted screw with plunger in by turning in plunger below the the slot levels.
 Then can you set the 2nd stage wt.next, then the wall or roll if wanted on the slotted screw? 
 Then just finish out with the 1st stage wt. and trigger slack ?
 Stan

I'm taking the "wall" you mention as the start of the second stage.  If you turn the inner adjustment screw in such that the slots are available, you can set the position of the wall.  The wall will be the point where the trigger contacts the plunger.  The sooner they contact, the shorter the first stage and the longer the second (roll).  Then you can back out the inner (weight) adjustment.  If you want to do the weight first, you have to count turns as you move the inner adjustment in to adjust the length of the second stage and then recount as you bring the inner adjustment back out.

Ed Hall wrote:I'm taking the "wall" you mention as the start of the second stage.  If you turn the inner adjustment screw in such that the slots are available, you can set the position of the wall.  The wall will be the point where the trigger contacts the plunger.  The sooner they contact, the shorter the first stage and the longer the second (roll).  Then you can back out the inner (weight) adjustment.  If you want to do the weight first, you have to count turns as you move the inner adjustment in to adjust the length of the second stage and then recount as you bring the inner adjustment back out.

  Thanks a lot Ed, I really appreciate your help.
Stan

You're quite welcome.  I did think of some extra things to add:

It is possible to turn the outer adjustment in so far it acts as a stop.

Also, if the plunger spring goes solid prior to the trigger reaching the outer portion, that can act as a stop.

You should make sure the trigger travel is adjusted so the actual stop is in play rather than the second stage acting for it.

Ed, I've been training my finger to start my trigger right after the reset for sustained fire, on slow I go all the way out past reset then feel both stages and the wall going into center. I'd like to keep this Hammerli for Standard Pistol shooting and utilize both distinct stages and no roll. I'll set the wall and the weight will be around 250 grams, then total for 1000 grs.  
 I like International pistol sports a lot. I shoot a short roll with the 45 and have a .22 conversion on another frame, but I shot less bullseye this past year.
 Stan