Schoolme on naked lead bullets

I have been shooting BE about 2yrs and have used about 5-6k lead bullets, LSWC in a 1911. So far I have only used coated bullets and have not noticed any leading in my barrel. Because of availability issues, I recently purchased naked lead bullets for the first time (Zero 185gr, HP LSWC). I am a bit apprehensive about using naked lead though because I don’t want to deal with lead fouling my barrel.

 1. Is leading with naked bullets inevitable? 

2. Are there any preventative steps with loading or cleaning that should be done to mitigate risk of leading? 

3. If leading occurs, is there a consensus on the modern day best practice for removing it without damaging the bore? 

I am sure this has beef discussed ad nauseam over the years but would like to bring myself up to speed with the rest of you on the topic. 

-Trevor

Never observed leading personally from Zeros in 1911. Always loading below book starting load.  I get a small amount in my 38spl

Zeros have some sort of lube on them.  Even still with un coated lead you want to keep the velocity low like 850-900 fps.

Zero bullets have lube on them and that is pretty standard with commercial lead bullets.  I have never ever used coated bullets in my 45 and I have never ever had any leading problems. The only time I experienced leading issues was years ago when I first started reloading. I bought some .38 cal. cast bullets at a local gun show that were touted as being “Hard Cast”. You want harder bullets for higher velocity but with my low powder charge I got streaks of lead in the barrel.  I think those bullets were too hard and didn’t seal which allowed the flame to get past the bullets.  I think that caused some of the lead to melt and leave the streaks. Whatever happened, I stopped using those bullets and never had another leading issue. I know coated bullets are the rage these days but I don’t see the need, at least as far as leading is concerned.
John

IF, you have leading, some copper Chore Boy wrapped around a brush works really well.

https://www.ssusa.org/content/how-to-clean-tough-lead-deposits-from-your-barrel/

The only leading I ever got with Zeros was when I wasn't expanding the case enough. Use a good expander, and you'll be fine.

Dave

Back in the day almost everyone shot lead bullets.  Leading should not be an issue at the velocities we shoot.  Many of the old timers cast their own.  I learned how to shoot the 45 by casting and shooting a lot.  At this time of my life I know better than to melt lead out in the garage and breath in the lead.  I have two wad guns and the gunsmiths who built them used Star 185g lead swchp's. Test targets that came with both guns are 1.5 to 1.8 inches.  The Zero 185 swchp is a close copy of the Star bullet.  These are swaged bullets that are very soft, and shoot good.

leading is inevitable..  i can get leading with a percussion revolver

Eindecker wrote:leading is inevitable..  i can get leading with a percussion revolver

Ok, so then what do I do about it? What do you do to get it out?

Authentic Copper (not coated) Chore Boy.

S148 wrote:IF, you have leading, some copper Chore Boy wrapped around a brush works really well.

https://www.ssusa.org/content/how-to-clean-tough-lead-deposits-from-your-barrel/

Thanks for the great article. I notice it does not mention much about solvents. I’ll give the chore boy a try.

Be sure to have a magnet handy to verify before scouring your bore.

FWIW, I use three non-jacketed .45 bullets. ZERO 185 LSWC, Brazos Precision 200 and Bayou Bullets 185 coated bullets. All excellent, and none produce visible lead deposits to the point of loss of accuracy. I do run them on the mild side, about 730-770 fps, and I do clean my guns with not more than 400-500 rds through them. I use WST & VV N310 crimped to .469 - .470 at case neck. I use Hoppes #9.

hengehold wrote: I notice it does not mention much about solvents.

You don't need or use any solvent with the choreboy. It works much better dry.