Hammerli 208 vs. 208s

For those familiar with the Hammerli 208 and 208s, a couple questions:  1) Does the "s" version have any mechanical advantages other than 2 stage trigger? 2) Do those who have shot both feel the 2 stage is quite noticeable as an advantage?  Said another way, plenty of pistols have take-up and then weight.  Its not generally called 2 stage, but there is slop and then there is trigger pull.  With the "s" version, I assume like the PArdini there is slop, stage 1 and stage 2, and one can reduce the effort in Stage 2 by putting some real weight into Stage 1?  Is this the case with the 208s?  3) Given the 208 is readily available, and the 208s is like a hen's tooth, is the 208s really worth the extra cost and wait?  4) Can a 208 with a single stage be modified to have a 2 stage trigger like the 208s with some machining? 5) Finally, in the picture below the 208s has a noticeably different, possum-belly type of trigger guard.  The 208 has a smaller trigger guard.  Is the trigger guard ALWAYS different for the 208s? OR are there some 208s models that have the smaller trigger guard?

1. Actually, the S version technically denotes an adjustable Length of Pull. The trigger can slide forwards and backwards. All S versions have 2 stage triggers. There are some later production non-S models that have 2 stage triggers, but not adjustable LOP.
2. Yes.
3. Probably not, as you can get used to anything, and the single stage triggers are actually really nice.
4. Theoretically, yes. But, it's easier to modify a two stage non-S model to have an adjustable LOP. I have such a model (215) that was done my Larry Carter. He added the square trigger guard as well.
5. As far as I know ALL S models had square trigger guards from the factory. Given they are interchangeable, you could probably find an S model somewhere with the round guard.

Hope this helps!

Dave

I had a 208 (on a trial basis) at the same time as my 208s.  The 208 trigger was great, but I prefer the adjustable s trigger.

I currently have it adjusted to 2#, about 1# on 1st and 2nd stage with a very slight roll.  Before I had it with a more perceptible wall, but as others said the slight roll makes it easier to smoothly press the trigger.

I would wait for a 208s

Dave got most of the points, however note that the 208 had several variations of triggers (called “trigger Latch” in the manual)

Chris is right. Other types I know of are some 208 non-S have an adjustable overtravel (very evident, you can see it behind the trigger), and I know of someone who had a "kid" trigger, which was thinner and moved back some, giving a shorter LOP. Wouldn't be surprised if there might be a few others.

Dave

The only thing I'll add is that when I switched from a High Standard Victor to a 208S, it took a little while for me to get used to the 2 stage trigger, but after I did my .22 scores really improved and quickly. The 208S was more reliable than the Victor (nearly 100%) and more accurate.

Odd. I have 2 Victors, a 1975 107 and a 1978 ML-series.  Both are Hamden barrels.  They will both group 10 shots off the bench or from my Ransom just as tight as my Nygord Pardini, GSP Expert or 208s.  Each has its own preferred ammo.  Ea h pistol has a different feel in the trigger, in recoil or grip.  The 2 Victors I have gotten almost identical, but the triggers are just a little different.

Once I got the magazines tuned for the Victors, they run 100%.

I see more advantage in my Euro guns based on their balance and/or recoil recovery than raw accuracy.

i have shot both of these and find the s trigger had a better feel for me at least, but since much of the shooter expertise with the many 208 adjustments is ageing out and not attending shooting sessions. we are losing the correct methods and tweaks to adjust these fine machines. hence many people who own a 208s that I come across do not have the trigger adjusted properly.  so whatever you buy make sure you have a person near by that has some extensive experience with these machines. just my 2-cants. BTW i use a 208 for matches as my primary. best of luck to you.

Nuke - That photo of your .22 collection is impressive! You might need a page in OnlyFans!  Seriously, would you offer up a comparison of the pros and cons of your collection?  And, ultimately, do you find you shoot the same scores with all (its the shooter not the gun)?  

Ermakevin - I'd have guessed your preferred gun would be the ErmaWerke 85A?  Apparently not.  Would you share your tuning techniques for the 208s/215s triggers? 

Dcforman - Thank you for the advice on the triggers!  Looking through GunBroker and Simpson LTD I can now distinguish the differences you mention, including which have a 2 stage trigger, the "thin" blade and over-travel adjuster. 

208/215 vs. XESSE:  Does anyone think the Xesse is the "current" or 3rd iteration of this pistol design?  Looking at the design and trigger, and having owned a Larry's modified Xesse, I am wondering if I had my 208/215 experience and just didn't know it at the time? 

My experience with Xesse was "a solid and reliable mid-tier target pistol". Balance was to the rear.  After the Larry's spring upgrade it became reliable.  The trigger was in the class of the Benelli MP95 (not the 90s), i.e. adjustable, but fine tuning it required micro-movements of screws that were not up to the task, nor were their plastic housings.  It was a good gun, but not a great gun.  This leads me to wonder "is the 208/215 just an earlier version of the Xesse? Or an earlier AND MUCH BETTER version of the Xesse"?

The trailside/Xesse were basically less expensive versions of the 208/215. Can be a very good option

I'm following this thread with interest as I am soon to take possession of a 208s.  I know the trigger has many adjustments and I have an owner's manual I downloaded from the internet.  However, while the manual is clear about what each adjustment is supposed to do, there are no procedures explaining exactly how to make them.  I'm guessing there is a preferred method or order in which the various adjustments should be done.  First, adjust screw "A" until "x" is achieved, then adjust screw "B" until "y" happens, and so on.

I'm hoping for someone with real experience to share their process.

Thanks in advance.

Dennis, aka dulcmrman

This is helpful IMO

https://starreloaders.com/edhall/hammerli208sca.html

1/8-1/4 turn at a time on the screws.  Trust me.

- You will need a 0.9mm Allen wrench to set 1st stage weight (screw is behind the trigger and the trigger needs to be slid forward to access)

- the 1.5mm screw at the front of the trigger bar sets the "takeup"  You HAVE to have some slack before 1st stage or the trigger doesn't work.

- the 2nd stage weight is the 1.5mm screw inside the other screw accessed from above the breech with the slide open.
- the 2nd stage travel, or "roll" is the outer adjustment screw. It is adjusted with #2 screwdriver on the multi-tool, or a 3/16 wide x 1/16 thick screwdriver.  Of course, when you adjust this, you also affect 2nd stage weight, so adjusting weight will be needed again.

Patience and small adjustments are key to successful trigger adjustment here.

Good luck.

NukeMMC probably just provided the most concise explanation of trigger adjustment for the 208. 

Patience and small adjustments are key to successful trigger adjustment here.

Extremely good advice for trigger adjustment, just don't forget that the user may need some adjustment time in effectively utilizing the adjustment.

NukeMMC wrote:1/8-1/4 turn at a time on the screws.  Trust me.

- You will need a 0.9mm Allen wrench to set 1st stage weight (screw is behind the trigger and the trigger needs to be slid forward to access)

- the 1.5mm screw at the front of the trigger bar sets the "takeup"  You HAVE to have some slack before 1st stage or the trigger doesn't work.

- the 2nd stage weight is the 1.5mm screw inside the other screw accessed from above the breech with the slide open.
- the 2nd stage travel, or "roll" is the outer adjustment screw. It is adjusted with #2 screwdriver on the multi-tool, or a 3/16 wide x 1/16 thick screwdriver.  Of course, when you adjust this, you also affect 2nd stage weight, so adjusting weight will be needed again.

Patience and small adjustments are key to successful trigger adjustment here.

Good luck.

Thank you!  I haven't received my Hammerli yet, and may not need to adjust anything, but it's always good to know how without messing things up.

Again - many thanks.

Dennis, aka Dulcmrman

I have a Larry's Special Xesse and a New SF, Once I put the adjustable trigger button in it I got from Red Feather, I like the SF just as much. Composite versus Metal on the trigger does not bother me, they are now the same shape.

rich.tullo wrote:I have a Larry's Special Xesse and a New SF, Once I put the adjustable trigger button in it I got from Red Feather, I like the SF just as much. Composite versus Metal on the trigger does not bother me, they are now the same shape.

hello i just picked up a SF and the trigger adjustments are overwhelming for me. difficult to follow the German translation in the manual.  lol
question are the adjustments the same as the 208s????? 
thanks