Managing recoil of a revolver with small hands

Hi guys,

I just got my 686 Plus back from S&W today, it was shooting high before with the sights all the down, and went to the range to test it.

I have small hands and all revolvers I shot, except one, have jumped in my hand resulting in a shift requiring me to quickly re grip in sustained fire.

I grip harder to try to tame it, from tightening it from all around, only front to back, to adjusting the way it sits in my hand but they all result in the same thing—it shifts! Even with the technique Jordan Kramps show'd me which worked, for his revolver, but not any of the others I've shot.

I would like to say I have strong hands, I'm an avid rock climber and lift 300lbs, but preventing the revolver from slipping out is difficult for me


Looks like I might be able to manage timed and slow fire but I haven't been able to recover fast enough for rapid, I'm always a second slow.

Any tips with photos or videos?


My timed fire today:

Tough one. Can't answer it without seeing you actually shoot (and I was a little busy the last time I saw you shoot).

I have pretty small hands. I've been known to say that I have "teenage girl hands." (I've shaken hands with John Zurek, Charlie Baxter, and Frank Goza. My paws are tiny.)

I can't lift 300 pounds nor climb rocks, but I can shoot a 6" Colt Python revolver.

Revolvers are tough to shoot accurately. You have to "grip it and rip it," especially in Rapid Fire. Constant mental focus on bringing the trigger straight to the rear is important.

I have also found that bringing your hand up so high in the grip that the revolver hammer bites the web between your thumb and index finger helps.

It's Type 1 Fun, though. Keep at it. If it was easy, everyone would be Distinguished. You'll get there.

I have found the “correct” grip on a revolver takes a bit of trial/error, especially if not sized for your hand. Are you shooting single or double action?

john bickar wrote:
I can't lift 300 pounds nor climb rocks, but I can shoot a 6" Colt Python revolver.

I have also found that bringing your hand up so high in the grip that the revolver hammer bites the web between your thumb and index finger helps.

It's Type 1 Fun, though. Keep at it. If it was easy, everyone would be Distinguished. You'll get there.

Ah, I wish a Python fit my hand better! I can’t even cock it one handed well—I tried 4 different days trying to convince myself it’s the gun for me because of how it’s praised. 

Having the hammer bite into the webbing is novel, I’ll try that

Do you shoot SA for sustained?

chiz1180 wrote:I have found the “correct” grip on a revolver takes a bit of trial/error, especially if not sized for your hand. Are you shooting single or double action?

Single action for all

I think I’m mechanically disadvantaged for DA with my revolver, the trigger is SO far away!

DA is 11.5lb
SA 4.5lbs

Thinking about changing main spring and extended firing pin and maybe polish a little more

I have an SpO1 with a shorter DA reach that’s more doable, but that was easy to drop to 6lb DA with lots of polish and a few spring changes without the mainspring changing

Which stocks are you using? I've noticed over time that different stocks will absolutely contribute to how well I feel like I am managing the gun.

You might try some Hogue's (if you haven't already). I find them to be a bit thinner- that may help.

Also, you can read distinguishedrevolver.com for a little bit of my opinion on revolver grip, and I also have Jason Gregoire's video that he shows of his timed and rapid fire movement. 

Best,
Chase

Chase Turner wrote:Which stocks are you using? I've noticed over time that different stocks will absolutely contribute to how well I feel like I am managing the gun.

You might try some Hogue's (if you haven't already). I find them to be a bit thinner- that may help.

Also, you can read distinguishedrevolver.com for a little bit of my opinion on revolver grip, and I also have Jason Gregoire's video that he shows of his timed and rapid fire movement. 

Best,
Chase

Wow! That video in your April 9, 2024 post is perfect! He opens his hand to pull the hammer as well but is super quick about it!

https://www.distinguishedrevolver.com/2024/04/09/Timed-Rapid-Fire-Grip-Technique-Video.html

I’ll work on cadence and finger dexterity for now


Thank you for sharing that!

I’ve tried the stock rubber grip on my 686 but I still had grip issues.  Switched out to a Nill grip that was supposed to be helpful for small hands—definitely better with grip friction but still not small enough for my hands, at least for the types of grips I’ve tried

MkFiji wrote:

Chase Turner wrote:Which stocks are you using? I've noticed over time that different stocks will absolutely contribute to how well I feel like I am managing the gun.

You might try some Hogue's (if you haven't already). I find them to be a bit thinner- that may help.

Also, you can read distinguishedrevolver.com for a little bit of my opinion on revolver grip, and I also have Jason Gregoire's video that he shows of his timed and rapid fire movement. 

Best,
Chase

Wow! That video in your April 9, 2024 post is perfect! He opens his hand to pull the hammer as well but is super quick about it!

https://www.distinguishedrevolver.com/2024/04/09/Timed-Rapid-Fire-Grip-Technique-Video.html

I’ll work on cadence and finger dexterity for now


Thank you for sharing that!

I’ve tried the stock rubber grip on my 686 but I still had grip issues.  Switched out to a Nill grip that was supposed to be helpful for small hands—definitely better with grip friction but still not small enough for my hands, at least for the types of grips I’ve tried

I use a Nill grip on my 14-3, and it is a bit chunky, imo. I do have one of the hardwood grips from Hogue, and do think it is thinner; but that is only by feel and not some measurement.

Chase Turner wrote:

MkFiji wrote:

Chase Turner wrote:Which stocks are you using? I've noticed over time that different stocks will absolutely contribute to how well I feel like I am managing the gun.

You might try some Hogue's (if you haven't already). I find them to be a bit thinner- that may help.

Also, you can read distinguishedrevolver.com for a little bit of my opinion on revolver grip, and I also have Jason Gregoire's video that he shows of his timed and rapid fire movement. 

Best,
Chase

Wow! That video in your April 9, 2024 post is perfect! He opens his hand to pull the hammer as well but is super quick about it!

https://www.distinguishedrevolver.com/2024/04/09/Timed-Rapid-Fire-Grip-Technique-Video.html

I’ll work on cadence and finger dexterity for now


Thank you for sharing that!

I’ve tried the stock rubber grip on my 686 but I still had grip issues.  Switched out to a Nill grip that was supposed to be helpful for small hands—definitely better with grip friction but still not small enough for my hands, at least for the types of grips I’ve tried

I use a Nill grip on my 14-3, and it is a bit chunky, imo. I do have one of the hardwood grips from Hogue, and do think it is thinner; but that is only by feel and not some measurement.

Which model Hogue grip do you have?

It would be this one:

https://www.hogueinc.com/k-or-l-sq-butt-goncalo-stripe-cap-checkered

Again, this is just my experience that I am reporting. It may, or may not, be beneficial to you.

I found that getting as high of a grip as possible helps quite a bit with control.  I shoot  single action for everything and this also helps keep your thumb up and closer to the hammer.  

A training tip (and this would apply to semi auto as well) is to concentrate on getting as many well aimed shots off as possible in rapid fire.  Early on you may only get 4 but those 4 will score better than 5 rushed shots which helps your confidence of shooting good shots.  As you train more, you’ll get that 5th shot with no problem. 

Good luck.  

John

Look for a grip with exposed frame backstrap - they usually have a smaller "girth" allowing those with short fingers to maintain a more consistent grip.

e.g.

https://www.hogueinc.com/colt-python-overmolded-rubber-monogrip-black 

But I don't shoot a python and I don't like grips with the finger grooves. The skinny wooden slabs from an old Trooper might also work, just roughen them up or add some skateboard tape.

I also have short fingers and so I DA the last 4 shots of TF & RF. The gun needs to have a smooth DA, preferably allowing you to "stage" the shot, especially in TF. In RF just pull smoothly through with a steady cadence, hopefully "bouncing" the sights on to the mark at just the right moment with every shot. Takes practice, but definitely works. YMMV!

I shoot double so what I personally do is a bit different than this recommendation, with that in mind this would be the approach I would initially use. Make gun safe for dryfire, cock the hammer and adjust grip such that your trigger finger position is optimal. Once you have that figured out make any needed adjustments to your such that you can cock the hammer but still have the best trigger finger placement possible. Once you have a grip that work for both of those processes (pulling the trigger and cocking the hammer). Dry practice that routine. You may want to try different stocks to see which style works best for the manipulation. You will likely have to break your grip to an extent during the cocking process, part of the single action routine is reestablishing your grip between shots. Ideally the whole cocking procedure happens during recoil.

In addition to stocks, trigger and hammer width do make a difference, may be positive or negative for your particular needs. You also mentioned an L frame in your initial post, if you can try a k frame, the balance is a bit different, it may make a difference for you.

Revolvers are a bit of a challenge to figure out but once you get a handle of how to best make them work they are very rewarding.