Anyone Ever solder the back of a 1911 trigger?

And is regular electric solder good or do you need something more specialized?

If you're talking about soldering on a shim to reduce take-up, I think they used to silver solder them, which requires quite a bit more heat than an electric soldering iron.

IIRC, there are triggers made with tabs on the front of the bow that can be bent to reduce take up. It might be an easier solution.

gotyah

Rather than solder, you mupight want to consider JB Weld epoxy to hold the shim on.  Probably won't need as thick of a shim.

If you are trying to reduce slack/takeup, my advice would be to stay away from the rear surface of the trigger.  If your trigger does not have a tab to bend at the front of the bow, you can solder a small piece of steel to the front of the bow in the location a tab would be.  Dress it with a file to adjust takeup.  Remember that there has to be some slack in order for the disconnector to work properly.

I recently took an old school soldered trigger and put it in a 22 conversion. It added a full pound to the trigger pull (longer). But it caused hammer follow down. Long story made short......be very careful with trigger lengths. I've seen trigger without over travel screws (missing) that would double until screw was replaced. There is a lot going on with triggers that is easy to overlook. If pre-travel is an issue you can use cut off wheel and make a tab on front of the bow. Bend it forward until you get pre-travel you like. Do not go less than 0.015" because still need room for reliable reset of disconnector.
Jon

a dab of Tig weld on the front of the Bow works very well, but I have to admit I do what Jon suggested on my Greider triggers

Jon Eulette wrote:I recently took an old school soldered trigger and put it in a 22 conversion. It added a full pound to the trigger pull (longer). But it caused hammer follow down. Long story made short......be very careful with trigger lengths. I've seen trigger without over travel screws (missing) that would double until screw was replaced. There is a lot going on with triggers that is easy to overlook. If pre-travel is an issue you can use cut off wheel and make a tab on front of the bow. Bend it forward until you get pre-travel you like. Do not go less than 0.015" because still need room for reliable reset of disconnector.
Jon

Gotyah, there is about 0.015 of slack before the trigger touches the disco at about #4 of pull not horrible but more of an annoyance since my other 1911s don't do that. I actually like some takeup as long as it's sprung. A Clark 4 prong spring actually fixes the problem but the spring is getting old and the new Clark springs are nearly impossible to adjust because the curves are pronounced. 

I ordered some Medium Nighthawk triggers that look like Videckis but have the tabs. I ordered a Wilson short but it was too short, almost like a GI, and the Wilson had a weird shape to it so once I installed it I threw it out. 

In every other way, the current trigger fits nice in the frame and I was trying to see if I could make it work.

I've used a couple 'klonimus' triggers off ebay on the grounds that they had pre-travel tabs and over-travel screws, and were economical.  The fit was as good or better than the factory RO trigger. 

As I recall back when I set them up there were non-obvious things in both limits.  Over-travel needed to clear the safety sear on the hammer which is a bit past allowing release, and pre-travel had to allow reset +, grip safety operation, and maybe something else.