Full length recoil spring guide length different?

I recently purchased three full-length recoil spring guides, two with a recoil-absorber built in (Sprinco Recoil Mgt System) and one heavy guide made of tungsten. All were apparently "made to spec length" for the 1911 (according to Sprinco tech support), but all three are about 0.025" too long to allow the barrel bushing to be turned into place?  The rod sticks out that extra 0.5mm beyond the frame, and interferes with the bushing when trying to turn into position.  I tried three 1911's and no luck. My pistols are Accuracy X and Springfield A1s, some older some newer. 

The OAL of the guides are 4.02" / 102.09mm.

Possibly I am doing something wrong?  The Sprinco does not compress.  I have tried.  The tungsten guide is exactly the same length as the Sprinco's, which has me thinking I'm missing something.  Before I start grinding I was hoping for pointers, suggestions or affirmation that these guides often are built a bit long to be sized to each pistol? 

One other question in case anyone knows - the tungsten rod came with a very small hole drilled about 1/3 of the way from the muzzle end (not all the way through the guide), and two tiny little pins that fit this hole.  What could these be for? 

Thanks!  Cliff.

The holes are for putting a pin thru to compress the spring.
Then the RSG can be removed thru the back.

I don't use pins, but the hole is to solve your issue!

Put the spring onto the guide rod and then the spring cap. Compress the spring and put a piece of bent wire which I prefer (or a pin) in the hole to lock the assembly together. Turn the barrel bushing to it's normal locked position. Then slide the spring assembly into the slide from the rear. Install the slide, pull the slide back and lock it and then remove the wire or pin. 

Disassembly is to lock the slide back, install the wire/pin, remove the slide and pull the spring assembly out toward the rear of the slide. 



The problem there is that not all slide spring bores are through bored to allow the spring cp to slide out the back, such as my Range Officer.

You've given me a way to use the rods as is (thank you!), but it seems like for regular use/disassembly  I'd want the rod to be a little shorter?  i.e. be able to load the spring and cap through the muzzle end, and then just twist the bushing into place?  Will taking off that extra 0.025" create other issues?  Maybe there is a good reason to load from the back?  REALLY appreciate your help guys!

It comes off with the slide. No disassembly required.
Unless your pulling the barrel.
Sounds like you need the 2 piece screw together one

croesler wrote: i.e. be able to load the spring and cap through the muzzle end, and then just twist the bushing into place?  

The object is to keep from twisting the bushing that Accuracy X spent time to fit so well. The less you twist it the longer the bushing fit will remain tight. Having a proper bushing fit is one of the things you paid all of that money for!

I like the one piece guide rods with the spring capture hole. I think they are easier and quicker. Plus you don't risk launching the guide rod plug.

The added benefit, or maybe primary benefit of being able to remove the complete guide rod assembly from the rear without turning the bushing is this. Once the guide rod has been removed, then you let the barrel unlock, then let the barrel protrude out the front of the slide a inch or so. You then can turn the bushing with much less energy required, thus reducing wear or stretching of the bushing against the locked up slide to barrel fit.

A piece of paper clip size wire cut and formed in this (L) shape   __________I work well for capturing the plug compressing the spring. You should be able to find some youtube videos on this. Watch several, some may be done by morons.

I have the same problem with the tungsten guide rod being too long in my Kimber.  I've found that this generally works.   With the slide out of the frame, install barrel, install barrel bushing to the locked position, install guide rod, install slide on to frame with slide lock, install spring, install spring plug and capture the edge with the barrel bushing.  Then, insuring the slide is all the way forward on the frame, use a bushing wrench to capture the plug. It may be a little tight, but the bushing should slide over the guide rod.