Kimber match bushing correct removal

Just purchased a Kimber Stainless ll for a hardball target platform. Here in NorCal we are very limited in choices. Previous 1911’s have been Colts and frankly I'm pretty impressed with the Kimber. I'm installing a Kart exact fit and my question is; what is a good solution for enabling the proper breakdown removal of the match bushing?
I thought I would replace the one piece recoil guide rod however upon examination I find the Kimber rod is a very nice piece and my overall impression of the very nice pistol design indicates that that guide rod may make a larger impact on performance than I've come to believe with prior pistol experience.
Measuring another 2 piece guide rod (which I had replaced with a standard,) I find the Kimber is more stout with a larger and more articulated flange. 
By the way; I find the Swarz type grip safety activated firing pin block not to have any effect on trigger function.




“What wisdom is greater than kindness?” From a bumper sticker

I hate 2 piece guide rods. I would swap them for traditional 2 piece cap/rod, that's what most custom pistols come with unless you want extra weight. 

To get the bushing out:
-pull the slide stop
-remove the entire upper
-dump out the guide rod, spring and cap
- Pull the barrel forward so the engagement portion of the muzzle isn't on the bushing
-rotate your bushing with wrench
-then use the barrel as a slide hammer to work the bushing out, don't go crazy but light taps won't hurt the barrel.

Thanks for the response! Your solution is the first I tried. Oddly enough, there isn’t enough clearance to remove the factory rod after pulling the slide. It hangs up on the lower barrel lugs. It's stout!
I could relieve a clearance on the rod flange to clear the lugs but getting out the files is generally not plan A for me.

That's the problem with a 2pc rod and the reason I despise them. You may be better off going on Youtube to see how this specific rod is removed.

Cazmont wrote:Thanks for the response! Your solution is the first I tried. Oddly enough, there isn’t enough clearance to remove the factory rod after pulling the slide. It hangs up on the lower barrel lugs. It's stout!
I could relieve a clearance on the rod flange to clear the lugs but getting out the files is generally not plan A for me.

You need to lock the RSR in the compressed position to get enough clearance to remove it. See if it has a small hole an inch or so back from the end. That’s for a thin wire

Jim, I’ll look into it. In the meantime congrats on the lefty N frame. Can’t say I've ever seen one before!

Cazmont wrote:Jim, I’ll look into it. In the meantime congrats on the lefty N frame. Can’t say I've ever seen one before!

One of a kind!!! 

This guy seems to have the same model
http://guntoters.com/blog/2020/08/08/kimber-stainless-ii-government-model-45-acp/