Removing A Stuck Shade On Matchdot 2

Got an UD Matchdot 2 that has a stuck shade, I probably put a bit of loctite on it. I've really put some ass into it and can't get it, even used my heat gun to try to soften the loctite. Also wrapped it in sandpaper with an adhesive back so my hand wouldn't slip on the aluminum. Was hoping to take the shade off to shed some weight. Any tricks?

Katie at UD told me to use ordinary kitchen rubber gloves - I was skeptical - but they did indeed help me to release a very stubborn trim ring, Sounds like your tube is much more of a challenge though.

Immerse the shade in a solvent - Acetone? But be careful not to get it in the main tubes - they are also sealed with a thread compound.

Problem here is that anything you do to the shade may translate into the tube/glass.  Any solvent may break up glass sealant, so have to be extra careful.  Same with heat (and depending on which type of loctite used you may need a lot of it).  Here is a forum on loctite solvents:

https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/removing-green-loctite.3824090/

If you do not care for the ring/shade or the permanent modification to the UD, then you may cut the ring/shade and sand down to the UD tube level.  This will be a mechanical solution, but most likely not to kill your optics.

I wonder if dripping a couple drops of something like PB blaster or Kroil would seep into the threads and break loose?

Try putting the shade face down on a rubber pad such as a lid remover. Be sure to hold onto the part you're keeping and twist. Many times, putting pressure on the shade to unscrew it by hand distorts it enough to bind the threads.

For gripping tubes, I prefer to use proper sized rings with a layer of tape between, so that slippage doesn't scratch the tube.  Remember that the tube that goes into the body is also screwed in, and sealed (as already mentioned).  With fasteners, sometimes a small amount of tightening will break the bond and allow loosening, but I've never tried that with scope tubes.

if its in the rings, loosen the front ring.... Jim

Well it wasn't budging and felt like I was pressing my luck. Miter saw took care of it lol. I cut it about 3/16" in front of the split to stay clear of the threads. Thought I might try to get the remainder off but after seeing how nice the aluminum cut with a decent carbide tipped blade I left it, I did flat sand the front up to 600 grit. Actually looks kind of cool, sort of like the silver barrel peeking out of the front of the slide. The hardest part was getting the dot shimmed with wood scraps so I could hold it securely and square to the blade. Better know what you're doing if you attempt it. Lesson learned on using loctite on shades. 

I also have a Sightron shade stuck but will leave it for now. Dropping the shade saved 1/3oz, I've been trying to get the right scope/ring combo for this new 38sp wadgun Jon built me. I can run an Aimpoint Patrol Pro but gotta get it pretty hot and the brass starts bulging at the bottom of the chamber. I think this MD2 in Steiner H Series Lightweight rings might be the ticket. Decided I really want a decent length 30mm tube dot, tried several variations and learning as I go, getting the perfect balance, sight picture and slide weight is tricky. I like 9000SC's but they're too chunky for a 38sp unless you really skelatonized the slide, rail and rings.

Here's what she looks like now. After taking this pic I just realized when I put back in my GI rod I put the wrong spring cap back in lol.

Definitely liking these Steiner rings, they're 2.3oz and still have a very nice clamp plate with 2 screws and 4 screws up top. If weight isnt an issue I like the Weaver 99515 rings at 2.9oz or even the all steel Warne 213m rings at 4.6oz. Depends on how much weight you can handle but after stripping the base screw on some cheapo rings I just spend a few bucks to get something decent. As much as we spend on guns and dots I can splurge for $80 rings.