Powers sear jig tips

I know the TR jig is all the rage, I have one, new version, but I would like to play with the old school powers jig, I owned one years ago can anyone give any tips to settings and what works for a roll and crisp best, thanks

I've owned the Power One for years and played with it quite a bit for the 1911..

tried the Jack Weigand 2 1/2 lbs method described on Brownells site and was never pleased with it.. I use the standard 20 clicks up method originally described in the power manual... it works very well for a crisp trigger letoff if you are using new and quality components.. only modified the sear primary angle a few times in many years and I'm sure that was due to the pin locations in lessor quality frames(Essex comes to mind)

my Nelson 22 conversion is set to a shade over 2lbs with that setup using .018 hammer hooks on a Wilson hammer and STI sear(good quality without breaking the bank). All my wad guns use this same setup on the jig simply adjusted by changing the sear spring pressure( I always use Colt sear springs).

I'm still playing with the TR sear jig(new version)..for me the jury is still out on whether I like the roll sear or not... I've had one I like and one I didn't...

If one is determined to use angles, get ready for a struggle. It is very difficult to get right. IF, it ever is. Below are  photos of the best angle fixture ever. It is infinitely adjustable, and does a fantastic job on hammer hooks.
This an Al Marvel prototype I built off Al's design..Only three exist, to my knowledge. 
So, what I am saying is, doing angles without the aid of some above average equipment can be a super challenge..




Placing the fixture block in the micro scope and or comparator allows one to focus on a direction if changes are needed,  otherwise it becomes a guesstimation ordeal that often ends in a short sear. I am a neutral engagement advocate when using angles, as shown in the scope picture..

Grinding the primary angles...


The red and green shim stock, allow shiftiing the primary face in an attempt to pick up equality on both hammer hooks

Setting up to do the secondary cut
Checking for sear angle
Set up for hammer work


Hammer hooks being equalized.

Hammer hooks being checked on the comparator


The ultimate sear fixture.. Perfect in ten minutes or less..

David the ground rules are more sear face would increase feel of roll.  Less will give more of a crisp feeling.  I know the sheet says start at 20 but I normally started mine at 18.  Of course lower decreases weight and higher increases weight.  Make sure your roller is moving smoothly with your stone as you're cutting your angles.  I also normally break the edge between the primary and undercut with a ruby or ceramic stone to help with the longevity of the sear and the trigger job.

I've also read off making sure the angle of the stone is perpendicular to the centerline e of the sear/hammer.

good point about the roller pin moving.. I got a replacement that was too large and would not move at all.. ended up using the largest pin gauge I could find that would roll.. My unit is pretty old so maybe they have changed over the years

thanks guys any other tips welcome too !

DavidR, This may seem intuitive but a little experimenting is needed to find the right oil for the roller. I ended up using good old 3n1 oil. All the expensive stuff either gummed it up or made it so slick the stone didn't move the roller.

Len

Now I know why I send everything to KC.  Way too hard for my amateur gunsmithing skills.

Chip

ChipEck wrote:Now I know why I send everything to KC.  Way too hard for my amateur gunsmithing skills.

Chip

It can be but ive shelled out mucho bucks over the years for trigger jobs and to be honest many were not very good. So over the past 10 years ive tried to learn how to do one with help from friends, internet and great forum members and now can get shootable trigger jobs on my guns, could they be better I'm sure they could be and I keep trying to learn and develop better skills. I'm no gunsmith and don't pretend to be but its nice to be able to do some work myself. Are they on the scale as jerrys or KC's ? surely not since I'm working with much less sophisticated equipment and limited skill. I have learned how to check them for safety which is IMO the most important thing to do before shooting live rounds.

David,

Are you going to be at the State Championship in Sept at RBGC?  I'll be there and let's sit down and talk.

I will KC, i'll look forward to it!  When it gets closer to the match i'll send you my contact and if you need any help setting up or whatever just let me know. I'm a member at RBGC and have full range access.

Thank you Sir.  I've already spoken with Dave and I'll be setting up between the bullseye and action pistol ranges in that little patch of grass in between.  Bringing my trailer so I can get set up and provide better services for the match.

Great, it should be a good match, anything I can do to help I will.

kc.crawford.7 wrote:Thank you Sir.  I've already spoken with Dave and I'll be setting up between the bullseye and action pistol ranges in that little patch of grass in between.  Bringing my trailer so I can get set up and provide better services for the match.

That's awesome KC!!

On the subject of the power custom jig how many clicks is recommend for cutting the relief angle?  At 20 the relief angle seems too wide, nearly flat across the tip of the sear.

the standard is 20 clicks.. never had an issue on mine at 20.. I worry more about the size of the cut verses the primary angle

easy way to cut the relief angle is to tape a .020 ( for starters) feeler gauge onto a 1/2 x1/2 stone of you choice leaving some of the stone exposed, then simply put the sear down nose first onto the stone leaving the rear of the sear on the gauge then just stone the relief angle keeping the sear bottom on the gauge.. you can add or subtract to the feeler gauge to change the angle if you like.. probably the oldest method to cut the relief angle.

Before purchasing the Power Custom fixture I've used the true radius jig.  The shim method described is how I would cut the relief angle.  I'd settled on .035.  Any less it seems the sear would sit further into the hammer hooks.  The angle produced with the Power Custom fixture is markedly different, thus my confusion about the proper setup.

The relief angle and its depth is dependent on hook engagement. Too much?? Too little??  I merely consider it a break away clearance and use a small 45° cut off the primary face and control my engagement removing metal directly in  line with the hammer hook deck if needed, thereby preventing the reduction of the primary surface.