Options for getting a pet load to cycle - 38 Super

From single-loading the Hornady 115 HAP I know that my 1,050 f/s load is very accurate but I am down to 16# hammer and 10# recoil springs and it is still not cycling my Dan Wesson 1911.  I'd prefer not to start load development all over with a heavier bullet, nor do I want to start cranking up the velocity or going lower than these spring rates.  I did notice that the firing pin stop has a sharp outer, lower edge (I suspect for delaying unlocking) and would like to swap in a stop with a radius, which is on order right now.  Anyone, either a pistolsmith or a 38 Super shooter, see an issue?  I just don't know if a sharp edged stop is an absolute necessity for this cartridge for some reason.
Thanks,
Ed

Shouldn't be a problem.  KC used a FP stop with a radius when he built my 9MM 1-32 twist where I was shooting a 115 HAP @ 1,100fps. Very accurate gun 1.25"@ 50yd.  
- Dave

ps I had KC convert the 9MM to a 1-10 twist very soft shooting 38 Super because my wrist couldn't take the sharp recoil of the 9MM.  Also a very accurate gun.

I should have included spring weights 12lb recoil & 19lb main for the 9MM.  10lb recoil & 19lb main for the 38 Super (both are frame mounted optic)

you're way under what I shoot in my 38 super EIC pistol.. I run a 12lb recoil spring and my usual 19lb mainspring.. loads with a 115 XTP are 4.4 BE LL  and 3.8BE for the SL. I use a std. radius FPS..

Thanks guys.  I am hoping that the radiused FPS is effective enough to go back to my standard 19# mainspring also.
Cheers.

Check out the Cammer hammer, an easy mod.