Lubricant for sear/hammer engagement?

How many of you guys here lubricate the sear and hammer engagement point and if so what do you use? I’ve heard a light coat of oil from some and I’ve also heard it’s best to use a specific lubricant or grease.. ???

TW-25

I use Gunslick.

Molybdenum disulfide, super slippery stuff.

TW25B

"Molybdenum disulfide", CUT WITH MILITEC. I SAW TONY KIDD PUT IT ON MY BERETTA HE BUILT ME. I'VE BEEN USING EVER SINCE. JP

Okay new question: how often is application required?

When you start feeling the trigger "differently" or when you completely clean the bottom end.  And of course I recommend TW25-B also.

I've seen 4 to 6 oz reduction in trigger weight by just disassembling, properly cleaning, and reassembling a frame assembly sparingly applying TW-25 to the moving parts. 

There used to be a paper published by MilCom on how to properly clean parts and apply TW-25. Basically, if you can see white, you've applied too much. 

Put a tiny bit between your thumb and finger and rub them together and you'll understand.

I used to clean and lubricate with CLP before every match, but now I use moly and clean/lube a little less often.

The friction coefficient is different, depending on the lube, so make sure to adjust weight as needed.

I'll second what Ed just said. Here's another thing to think about, it depends on what kind of trigger job you have. If you have a crisp trigger I would shoot the slickest oil I could find. If I shot a short roll that had feel or life to it I would use the thinnest oil or less viscous so that I don't lose the feel. As an aside, I have pistols that if you use a trigger shoe you cannot feel the roll anymore. So oil does have a very large play what your trigger feels like when you shoot it.
Jon

Possibly a stupid question but has anyone tried white lithium grease? Just curious. I’ll have to see about getting some of that TW25B to try. Thanks all.

I have tried a lot of different lubes on the hammer/sear interface and they all work to some extent but as Jon says, they all have a different feel. I think the lithium will have a feel more toward oil. The other thing to consider is if you oil your gun a lot like I do, how will the lube you use act once the oil reaches it? Nearly impossible to keep the oil from the slide rail out of the hammer area. For me the TW25 and the oil I use play nice together.

Some had recommended super lube, the synthetic stuff.

I use Loctite moly anti-seize compound at that location and also where the sear spring contacts the disconnector and sear.

Last week I cleaned my lower and reassembled it with a thin moly assembly grease.   I shot it Saturday and didn't like the trigger feel (it seemed to have lost the roll).  So this weekend I completely disassembled everything again, cleaned it using Mil-Comm's cleaner and then applied a thin coat of Mil-Comm's TWB25 using their recommended mix 20% of TWB in 80% Isopropol alcohol in a spray bottle.   Wow, what a difference in the trigger feel, it has a nice short roll.  Now I know why KC recommends it.

I'm clearing all my other products off the bench now and ordered aerosol TWB25, which should get into the sear and hammer better than the pump spray mix for touch ups between cleanings.   Incidentally, I found the Mil-Comm revolver-branded can was cheaper per ounce than the standard aerosol - the formula looked to be identical.

DA/SA wrote:I've seen 4 to 6 oz reduction in trigger weight by just disassembling, properly cleaning, and reassembling a frame assembly sparingly applying TW-25 to the moving parts. 

There used to be a paper published by MilCom on how to properly clean parts and apply TW-25. Basically, if you can see white, you've applied too much. 

Put a tiny bit between your thumb and finger and rub them together and you'll understand.

Agree - important part to proper use.  If the parts are not cleaned properly  and then the TW-25 applied properly the expensive TW-25 acts like any other less expensive grease

farmboy wrote:... the expensive TW-25 acts like ...

TW-25B is not expensive - properly applied a tube will last forever! I use it on everything - sear, slide, bolt, anything that slides across another surface. I like the 1.5oz syringe version best.

Happiness is a good search function in a forum.

I recently decided to eat my vegetables and set up my Nelson Conversion trigger to match my wad gun trigger (3.7ish pounds roll) as I need to get my 45 scores up. The NCG was a bit rough after sear spring adjustment so I pulled the hammer out and cleaned and applied moly paste.

22s are fun and easy to shoot but there is no escaping shooting the 45 if you want a classification card. Thanks all.

Add - As a dumb mechanic I like TW-25B for most contact points, differential lube for high pressure points (barrel links) and moly for hammer hooks. Superlube is great in revolver actions.

Neco Moly Slide   - Try it, you'll like it  1 oz will last almost forever.

https://www.neconos.com/item/MOLY-SLIDE-33

Thin film of Fomblin PFPE high vacuum grease. Other parts I use a cheap Park Tools synthetic grease (from local bike shop). Slide surface/contacts get a different treatment. I also have tried TW25B. I like that too. It's similar to Krytox.

Russ OR wrote:Neco Moly Slide   - Try it, you'll like it  1 oz will last almost forever.

https://www.neconos.com/item/MOLY-SLIDE-33

That's what Larry Carter used

bruce martindale wrote:

Russ OR wrote:Neco Moly Slide   - Try it, you'll like it  1 oz will last almost forever.

https://www.neconos.com/item/MOLY-SLIDE-33

That's what Larry Carter used

That's what I applied.

Pardini USA recommends and sells a Moly type lubricant for sear surface. Looks maybe like the Neco but IIRC $8 for a half ounce tub from Pardini.

I like the aerosol idea. I use TW25b and their oils otherwise for all things.

Anybody ever mess with cmd extreme pressure lube?