Any ideas on 1pc FLGR install without hole.

Bought a Wilson 1pc FLGR to go in my 38sp but it came and there's no hole for a retainer pin like the EGW. How the hell are you supposed to install it? With the bushing turned either way you can't slip the spring plug past it and there's no way I'm gonna get both the spring plug and bushing on at the same time.

I attempted to drill it but my bits walk and my cheapo starter punches are no match for the hard SS. Would need to round up a better punch I suppose.

Do you have the right guide rod for your pistol


https://youtu.be/yMqHKmgcbr8

The included spring plug won't pass the bushing rotated either way. The plug fits from the back but then you can't get in the rod. I'm gonna go look again in a bit to see if I'm missing something.

Finally got it. I really had to turn the bushing out of the way, newly new custom from Jon is very tight. Still might get it drilled at some point.

I too have a wadgun in 45 that Jon built for me . I have only 400 rounds through it and it is still tight. He put a standard guide rod in it. When I disassemble it I pull the slide back past the bulge before I turn the bushing so as not to gall it against the barrel and ruin the fit.

Yeah I usually do the same with GI or 2pc rods but no option here. Probably not too horrible if you limit the removal, figured I can clean chamber face and extractor, possibly use some pull through patches with CLP. 

The guide rod along with the 1" UD is now weighted and balanced perfectly. Can still cycle 2.8gr WST and not too light anymore.

Jon’s not going to like loosening that precision fit bushing when in full lock up!
Better drill that hole! Keep the family happy!

I don't believe that the Wilson's come beveled, so you may want to check that.

If it is beveled, make sure it is enough after shooting it a bit. Look foe contact with the barrel lower lugs in that area.

james r chapman wrote:Jon’s not going to like loosening that precision fit bushing when in full lock up!
Better drill that hole! Keep the family happy!

I meant its not really in full lockup as its not even on the frame. Yes the contact surfaces of the barrel and bushing are engaged. I'll see if I can get it drilled soon.

Zane, what you need is a center drill..short stubby drill bit to get the hole started

Our machinist vendor at work is gonna drill it for me Monday.

Make sure to mark the correct orientation for your hole also.
Can your end cap be removed through the back?

I don't think the hole angle matters, just the position down the rod. The location I marked is a spot where I can compress the plug back to fit an L shaped retainer pin. All my 1911's can have the plug removed from the back side.

zanemoseley wrote:I don't think the hole angle matters, just the position down the rod. The location I marked is a spot where I can compress the plug back to fit an L shaped retainer pin. All my 1911's can have the plug removed from the back side.

That’s what I mean.it has to be located where you can fit the “L” in.
Not blocked by the barrel.

Not cheap, but these Dawson Guide Rods are awesome

Guiderod 1911 5" Bushing Barrel Tool-Less by Dawson Precision - Dawson Precision, Inc.

This is interesting...

"For use with Wolff recoil springs, will not work with ISMI springs."

DA/SA wrote:This is interesting...

"For use with Wolff recoil springs, will not work with ISMI springs."

The rod diameter is standard dimension. Some, maybe all flat wound springs use a smaller diameter rod. At least those that I have do. I have three in use now, They do not work in all of my 1911 guns. Not enough clearance to insert it, when compressed. I think a slight bevel as is often done may be sufficient.

I only use ISMI springs in my 1911 and they are not flat wound springs, just standard chrome silicone round wire like Wolf springs. 

That's why I was a but curious as to why the Dawson rod would specify that.

But if ISMI also makes flat wound springs, Dawson's statement then makes sense.

Thanks!