Questions on a 208s

I wasn’t looking for a new pistol but I saw a 208s with Ultradot and 2 magazines stuck in the middle of an “Arms and Militaria” auction.  I'm surprised that my $600 bid got it.  It needed a good cleaning, but what a great trigger!  I’m beginning to understand the enthusiasm for these guns.  

I’ve got two questions:

One of the magazines is broken.  The little lips that hold the base to the tube broke off.  I’ve seen that Red Feathers has complete magazines, but not just the base.  Does anyone know of a source?

The  allen head screws that hold the optic mount to the gun and the screw that holds the barrel weight are really tight.  Since I don’t know the history, I don’t know if there might be Loctite on them.  I’d like to try to remove them without damage.  Any suggestions?

You can apply heat from a hair dryer/heat gun to the screws to soften the Loctite, if present.
Not too hot!
Congratulations on your find!

That’s a find right there, nice!

Hello. One of the very helpful on this forum awhile back suggested using a soldering iron to apply heat directly to screws. He suggested it needed to be strong
enough because the frame will absorb a lot of the heat. Every one suggests liberal use of kroil oil or similar products and patience.
Rich

RuckusD wrote:
One of the magazines is broken.  The little lips that hold the base to the tube broke off.  I’ve seen that Red Feathers has complete magazines, but not just the base.  Does anyone know of a source?

Actually Red Feathers used to have alumunum bases.  P/N: HA1204052.  They are not listed on website now.  However if you call Jim at 419-560-6030, you might get lucky. 

AP

Kroil or other penetrating oils will work after the sits a while. 

It's a 5 mm allen so you're unlikely to break it.

If you don't find a base in a couple weeks, pm me. 

I know I have one short base and may have others of l look

Not knowing the history of the pistol, soaking in Kroil and using a soldering iron or butane heat gun to soften any possible thread locking compound would be my approach. No harm in being cautious.

Being an old avionics person I have a fistfull of Ungar soldering irons to choose from. I think I use a 35 or 45 watt to get heat fast into the metal. I also have a Weller Pyropen butane soldering iron that has a heat nozzle that works well to for focused heat.

Thanks for the very helpful suggestions.

RuckusD wrote:Thanks for the very helpful suggestions.

 I have a couple of plastic bases if you want them "free". Kroil would work on those screws. PM me if you want the bases.
 Stan

Not knowing what kind of loctite I would say use a butane torch, one of those small soldering torches. Apply heat liberally as the metal around will absorb the heat. I found this is the only sure way to break through loctite and THE only way to break red loctite.

Since the magazine is already broken no harm in epoxy it all back in place. 5 minute epoxy will do the trick and provide lots of use. Apply liberally, sand down the excess, cold blue after all done.

For the weight/mount tightening screws, it is very common for those to lock in place without the use of adhesives.  I always use a mechanical advantage on my Allen wrench to "break" them loose, with a "snap!"  When you replace the weights/mounts be sure to clean the dovetails well and check often that the mount isn't "sneaking" forward a bit after a shooting session.

It appears that my magazine problem has been solved by the generosity of a forum member.  I appreciate the good suggestions on the barrel weights.
Bob